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Help Comm Port Issue New Computer


thevikester

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When I say "assembled", I bought these in kit form, disassembled, and I had a co-worker of mine put them together for me. That's what I mean by assembled.

Yes, HU is the only thing open, no Sequence Editor, not even the LOR Control Panel.

Only one controller is connected via cat 5 from adapter to said controller. The 485 adapter is plugged into an usb on-board.

I've attached a screen shot of my device manager page, maybe someone will see something I am missing.

Thanks,
Paul

Attached files 262065=14526-device-manager.jpg

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So component level assembly? Point being, did your co-worker who assembled the units have a way to test them? I hate to keep beating that to death, but trying to eliminate at least some of the variables...but if I'm understanding correctly, you have 2 assembled but untested boards...and that adds to the uncertainty. On the other hand, if your co-worker had the adapter, and had LOR loaded on a computer, and could test the boards, that then eliminates hardware, and puts us back to what would seem to be drivers.

So assuming you bought these from LOR or a distributor, do you not have the install CD for the adapter? Not sure why you had to grab the drivers off the web. I can't speak to whether the install CD supports Win 7, someone else will be able to confirm that.

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No, my co-worker did not have the adapter, the only thing he tested was the dual-power cords to make sure he had done everything correctly.

I have the install CD for the adapter, however, the date on the front of the CD says that the drivers are from 2009. I simply went to the website, downloaded the latest drivers, and then upgraded to the latest version.

I think I will try uninstalling the drivers and using the drivers from the CD. Past experience with PC issues is leading me to believe my problems are with the drivers, not with the actual hardware.

Thanks,
Paul

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I think that is your next logical step.

I checked, my adapter drivers are dated 2008...they work fine.

Others can chime in if there is an issue with Win 7 that requires an update driver past what is on the CD LOR provides with the adapter.

The fact you have flashing LEDs on the boards is a good sign (again, assuming you are saying your co-worker built the kits from component level, not just attached cords), so once you get CD driver installed, adapter working, you can actually do a test of the boards.

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OK, so I uninstalled the drivers I had, and loaded the drivers from the CD. Checked the date and they are from 2008.

After I installed the drivers, I rebooted my machine (just to be on the safe side), opened up the HU and did an "Auto Configure" (didn't find anything); then did a refresh with the Manual Select on COM4, and it didn't find anything either.

The LED light is flashing on the board, but it is a real fast flash (not 2/second like the manual says). Any idea what that means?

I've checked the Cat 5 cable connections, and it seems like it's loose on the board side, like it is sliding into the connection point (and snapping), but not fully sliding in all of the way. I've tried it with 3 different Cat 5 cables, and all of them do the same thing.

If it is known to work on XP, I may have a machine that I can load XP on if it is still a problem with Windows 7 after today.

Thanks,
Paul

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It should work on Win 7...assuming drivers, etc are installed, software installed properly. Again, that statement made based on other forum postings..worth searching the board to see if there is any other helpful advice re Win 7 and LOR.

Both boards do the same thing?

Assuming your friend did the soldering on the board, as opposed to LOR assembling, have you looked at the bottom (solder side) of the board to see if there are any connections that may have been left unsoldered, or obvious solder bridges?

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I'll search the board for other helpful advice with LOR and Windows 7.

One board flashes real fast, while the other one flashes slower (like 2 times per second).

I did not look at the bottom of the boards to see if a connection was left unsoldering, but since I already mounted the cards into the enclosure, that may be a little bit difficult.

Now I'm learning, next time I need a controller, be best to buy the "already assembled" controller. This is what I get for trying to save some money.....

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Two different behaviors from the two boards, all other things being the same, suggests an assembly issue...component in the wrong place, solder bridge, missed solder connection, etc.

The kits are not difficult if you have reasonable soldering skills..in defense of the person who assembled it for you, if you can't test it after assembly, its tough to know if you got everything right.

As much of a pain as it might be, taking both controllers out of their enclosures, comparing them to each other, and to the manual to verify parts placement, and then inspecting the boards under a magnifier, may very well point you to some issues that occured during assembly.

Worst case, LOR will take a look at the boards for you and assist with getting them working.

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OK, thanks. My friend has pretty good soldering skills (he puts together amateur radio kits for fun), so I'm sure the soldering is good on the kits.

I would hate to have to take them apart and compare them, but if I have to, I will do that. I would also hate to send them back to LOR for them to take a look, since shipping would probably cost an arm and a leg. But if I can't figure out the issue, then that is probably what will happen.

Thanks,
Paul

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If you assume the drivers/adapter is fine, there isn't much else....no matter how good one's soldering skiils are, and how many of these you have built, it is still not impossible to get two parts swapped or miss a connection...(speaking from experience of building several boards...:P)

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I put in a support ticket with LOR support and Dan was able to get me connected to the first controller. The second controller has a "fast blink" (5 times per second), which usually means the reset jumper has to be reset. I've done that to no avail, still get a fast blink and can't connect to it.

I'm surprised Dan is answering support tickets today. I would have figured LOR would have been closed because of the holiday, but I commend him for "partially" solving my problems.

Paul

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Good to hear.

So a reset took care of the first one? Makes sense after all the connecting, disconnecting, etc...my bad for letting that common sense step slide by the wayside.

The customer service you just experienced from Dan and LOR is situation normal....its beyond typical, to say the least.

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Yeah, a reset of the first one took care of that issue. It connected right up with no issues. Still having problems with the other one, even tried resetting it and it didn't help.

Great customer support from Dan and LOR, I didn't expect it considering the holiday. Mostly everyone (including myself) get the day off.

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just got to the post re: Dan got one fixed for you.. good.. As for the fast blink unit.. are the COMM chips in correctly?

You'll have to bite the bullet and remove the board from the case and inspect the bottom for missed solder poits/bridges, theres just no way around having to do that..

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TJ- Yes, I checked and the COMM chips are in correctly. I also did remove the board from the case (spent most of last night doing that) and I didn't see any missed solder points or bridges.

However, I am going to have my friend who built it look at it either today or tomorrow to make sure he didn't miss anything either.

If I can't figure this out, most likely its going back to LOR for them to take a look at it.

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One thing you can do to verify the other electronics on your non-working board. You can try swapping the comm chip between the 2 boards. This will help to prove components. Just be careful NOT to bend the legs on the ships. Also, the processor chip could be the issue.

Based on it is a fast flash, that is the same indication when you do a reset on a board. This would lead me to the jumper or the associated pins where they are soldered to the board.

Chuck

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also don't forget to double check the jumper, fast flashing led means reset on the pc boards. I have had the metal insert fall out before.

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