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caniac

North Pole(s) sorta

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Orville wrote:




Cray,

Since I've never used these metal tent nails(pegs) before, I have several questions about how you are using these to secure a Blowmold:

#1. Do your pre-drill a hole in the blowmold for them to go through?

#2. Do you just drive the nail(peg) through the blowmold, allowing it to create the hole?

#3. Do you drive the nail(peg) straight in or at a slight angle?

#4. How many do you use per blowmold (2, 4, 6 or some other number)?



I want to get the maximum hold down for my blowmolds, and without much damage in doing so.

Thanks!






Ouch! I was actually planning a tutorial on this, but haven't gotten one of them "roun 2 its" yet. It's a little more involved than that -- I'll give you the short version (the materials are mixed in with the instructions). Read through all the steps and you'll get an idea how I do this:

1. stand the blowmold on a sheet of plywood (I use 3/4", exterior grade is your best option) and trace around it using a sharpie or pencil (whatever).

2. use a 2- to 3-inch can to add "ears" on the border of your tracing. Add two (for small blowmold) or three (for large) "ears", spaced around the blowmold. What you want to do is center the can on the LINE of the original tracing, so the ear that sticks out past the tracing is half the size of the can and acts as a tab through which you can drive the stakes.

3. use a larger round item (say 4 to 5 inches in diameter) to trace a "hole" in the center of the blowmold tracing - preferably located in line with the hole in the bottom of the blowmold.

4. cut out the tracing, going around the ears with a jig saw or Roto-Zip. Cut out the hole in the center. At this point, I usually use a 1/4" roundover bit to rout all the edges of the cutout.

5. drill a 1/2" hole through each ear to give you a place to drive the stake. You want to keep this toward the outer edge (maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch away). The idea is that you can drive the stakes through these holes without smacking the blowmold (once it's mounted) with the hammer.

6. two coats of spraypaint to prtoect the wood -- it's going to be on the ground. I use flat black, though dark green works well to if the mold is going to be on the grass.

7. turn the mold upside down and place the painted and dried cutout on the bottom. Center it. Holding it in place, drill through the cutout (base) and into the inside of the blowmold. Place a screw (I use 10-24 screws, usually 1-1/2 inches in length) with a washer through the cutout and into the inside of the blowmold. Place a large #10 (or similar) fender washer (large washer, little hole) on the screw inside the blowmold by reaching through the large hole in the base and blowmold. Then put a nut on the screw. Tighten it down with a small wrench inside the mold, and a screwdriver on the outside. Make sure to center the coutout on the bottom of the mold.

8. now drill two more holes and place two more screws. In all, you should have three screw/nut combos holding the base to the blowmold.

9. turn the mold right-side up. Put it where you want it. Stake it down.

This method, while time-consuming is the best "invisible" (from the street) method of holding a mold. It looks a lot better than zip-tying them to rebar. And none of mine have tipped, even in high wind. I have not done this to all my molds -- just the ones I have actually displayed or plan to display soon. On some molds with small cutouts in the bottom, I have Roto-zipped the opening to make it a little larger for easier access. You'll have to be creative to do this with Noel candles -- I haven't done any of mine yet.

All my molds are in storage now so I can't get you a good picture just yet. I'll try to get a couple in the next few days.

Good luck. (Just remember, you asked for this.:P)

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Nice, Caniac. You can also add a coupler to the top of the PVC pipe to give a little more detail. Or leave it as is. It'll look good striped.

I agree with Orville - I would drill three small holes around the perimeter of the top to match the groove around the globe to hold it in. Then use small screws to actually hold it.

Depending on how you light it, you may not have to worry too much about complete water-tightness.

But, as you say, a LITTLE silicone shouldn't be bad.

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Cray Augsburg wrote:

Nice, Caniac. You can also add a coupler to the top of the PVC pipe to give a little more detail. Or leave it as is. It'll look good striped.

I agree with Orville - I would drill three small holes around the perimeter of the top to match the groove around the globe to hold it in. Then use small screws to actually hold it.

Depending on how you light it, you may not have to worry too much about complete water-tightness.

But, as you say, a LITTLE silicone shouldn't be bad.
I have 50ct full wave led's in the pic, do like the idea of the coupler though.

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just wondering why not use.. 2"x2" stakes to slide the pvc tubes over? cut them abt 12" long, taper one end, drive half of it into the ground with a sledge, and slip the pipes over them.. not have to drive multiple large "nails" into the ground around the toilet flange.. just wondering.. in AZ, we dont get ground freezing, so 2x2" stakes would be easier.. I image many other places dont get ground hard freezing..

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TJ Hvasta wrote:

just wondering why not use.. 2"x2" stakes to slide the pvc tubes over? cut them abt 12" long, taper one end, drive half of it into the ground with a sledge, and slip the pipes over them.. not have to drive multiple large "nails" into the ground around the toilet flange.. just wondering.. in AZ, we dont get ground freezing, so 2x2" stakes would be easier.. I image many other places dont get ground hard freezing..


Teej:

I don't know about other areas, but in KY the ground does get pretty hard in the winter. I have tried wooden stakes for various things -- what always happens to me is the tops of the stakes soon get "smashed" from the repeated pounding. So I tried the tent stakes ("nails"), and they worked so well. They go in easy and come back out easy. Plus they are reusable for a long time (and they double for use when we're camping -- actually had them for camping originally, then tried them for Xmas decor). They're fairly small, so they store well when not in use. I don't know . . . guess the bottom line is that I had 'em, I like the way they work, so that's what I use.

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To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(

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Cray Augsburg wrote:

TJ Hvasta wrote:
just wondering why not use.. 2"x2" stakes to slide the pvc tubes over? cut them abt 12" long, taper one end, drive half of it into the ground with a sledge, and slip the pipes over them.. not have to drive multiple large "nails" into the ground around the toilet flange.. just wondering.. in AZ, we dont get ground freezing, so 2x2" stakes would be easier.. I image many other places dont get ground hard freezing..


Teej:

I don't know about other areas, but in KY the ground does get pretty hard in the winter. I have tried wooden stakes for various things -- what always happens to me is the tops of the stakes soon get "smashed" from the repeated pounding. So I tried the tent stakes ("nails"), and they worked so well. They go in easy and come back out easy. Plus they are reusable for a long time (and they double for use when we're camping -- actually had them for camping originally, then tried them for Xmas decor). They're fairly small, so they store well when not in use. I don't know . . . guess the bottom line is that I had 'em, I like the way they work, so that's what I use.


Yeah, what he said!! lol

I have a real nice lawn and the ground isn't particularly hard do they go in somewhat easy and come out the same way. 2x2 stakes would tear up my lawn.

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Nurples wrote:

To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(
was thinking of going the sleeve route. found what i needed and it looks to be 3-4 inches in length. will glue the globe to the top part of the sleeve and just slide it on. will paint the sleeve to match the tube.

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caniac wrote:

Nurples wrote:
To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(
was thinking of going the sleeve route. found what i needed and it looks to be 3-4 inches in length. will glue the globe to the top part of the sleeve and just slide it on. will paint the sleeve to match the tube.


Depending on wether or not you get any high winds that may work. But if you get some high winds like wwe sometimes get in our "thunderstorms" and sometimes just a storm the wind is strong enough it could use the globe as leverage and pull it right off the top of the pole (or so I would think). So I'd still put in at least 3 or 4 regular screws through the sleeve to hold it in place. Or you may come out and find some globes MIA! Plus if you make it too easy to remove, you also run the risk of some scumbag vermin coming along and just removing and taking the globes off just for fun. They may leave them in your yard or may just abscond with them altogether.

This is why I zip tie all my power cords together throughout my display and zip tie them at their connections as well, this is so they can't be pulled apart by some bozo thinking: "Oh won't this be so much fuin pulling and changing the power cords around to screw this persons display up."

I will always do what I can on the side of keeping my display safe, in one piece and power from each controller to where it's needed! This way I'm not worrying some idiot is going to come along and move things(like channel cords) around, or worse, take items or a part of an item because they thought it'd be funny or fun. Or have damage done, or parts go blowing off by high wind gusts/winds.

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Orville wrote:

caniac wrote:
Nurples wrote:
To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(
was thinking of going the sleeve route. found what i needed and it looks to be 3-4 inches in length. will glue the globe to the top part of the sleeve and just slide it on. will paint the sleeve to match the tube.


Depending on whether or not you get any high winds that may work. But if you get some high winds like we sometimes get in our "thunderstorms" and sometimes just a storm the wind is strong enough it could use the globe as leverage and pull it right off the top of the pole (or so I would think). So I'd still put in at least 3 or 4 regular screws through the sleeve to hold it in place. Or you may come out and find some globes MIA! Plus if you make it too easy to remove, you also run the risk of some scumbag vermin coming along and just removing and taking the globes off just for fun. They may leave them in your yard or may just abscond with them altogether.

This is why I zip tie all my power cords together throughout my display and zip tie them at their connections as well, this is so they can't be pulled apart by some bozo thinking: "Oh won't this be so much fun pulling and changing the power cords around to screw this persons display up."

I will always do what I can on the side of keeping my display safe, in one piece and power from each controller to where it's needed! This way I'm not worrying some idiot is going to come along and move things(like channel cords) around, or worse, take items or a part of an item because they thought it'd be funny or fun. Or have damage done, or parts go blowing off by high wind gusts/winds.


we really don't have anything that resembles high wind (other than after effects of one of my trips to a Mexican restaurant). Last season there was only one day/night where we had high wind warnings and we took the display down that day (unplugged inflatables, took down mega tree, etc.).

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caniac wrote:

Orville wrote:
Depending on whether or not you get any high winds that may work.
8< SNIP >8

we really don't have anything that resembles high wind (other than after effects of one of my trips to a Mexican restaurant). Last season there was only one day/night where we had high wind warnings and we took the display down that day (unplugged inflatables, took down mega tree, etc.).

NOW that's FUNNY! ROFLMAO

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painted my prototype this evening and it really looks nice. now to make 9 more, pics to be posted tomorrow.

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here you go:

NP2_001.jpg

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Caniac, looks great! I'm thinking of doing something similar for my fm station sign. This thread gave me tons of ideas! When I get back from vacation, a lowes trip is gonna be one of my stops

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Arnoldc wrote:

Caniac, looks great! I'm thinking of doing something similar for my fm station sign. This thread gave me tons of ideas! When I get back from vacation, a lowes trip is gonna be one of my stops
gotta love PVC but if you want to spend an extra buck or two they have it pre-cut. was cringing at the idea of cutting 4" PVC "evenly" but they had 2' sections already done. for the plastic globes i had to go to HD.

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caniac wrote:

Arnoldc wrote:
Caniac, looks great! I'm thinking of doing something similar for my fm station sign. This thread gave me tons of ideas! When I get back from vacation, a lowes trip is gonna be one of my stops
gotta love PVC but if  you want to spend an extra buck or two they have it pre-cut.  was cringing at the idea of cutting 4" PVC "evenly" but they had 2' sections already done.  for the plastic globes i had to go to HD.


I have a chop saw, easy enough to take care of that. The problem is I dunno what the beat height would be. I've been kicking around 4' or 5'.

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Arnoldc wrote:

caniac wrote:
Arnoldc wrote:
Caniac, looks great! I'm thinking of doing something similar for my fm station sign. This thread gave me tons of ideas! When I get back from vacation, a lowes trip is gonna be one of my stops
gotta love PVC but if you want to spend an extra buck or two they have it pre-cut. was cringing at the idea of cutting 4" PVC "evenly" but they had 2' sections already done. for the plastic globes i had to go to HD.


I have a chop saw, easy enough to take care of that. The problem is I dunno what the beat height would be. I've been kicking around 4' or 5'.
that would depend on how you are gonna use it. for the FM station sign i would think a minimum of 3ft, guess it depends on how much info will be on the sign and how big.

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caniac wrote:

Arnoldc wrote:
caniac wrote:
Arnoldc wrote:

I have a chop saw, easy enough to take care of that. The problem is I dunno what the beat height would be. I've been kicking around 4' or 5'.
that would depend on how you are gonna use it.  for the FM station sign i would think a minimum of 3ft, guess it depends on how much info will be on the sign and how big.


Just for the channel info. I plan on 4" lettering. I will prolly end up splitting the difference an go with 4'6"

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Or do what i would do and use the pre-cut 5' sections!

Arnoldc wrote:

caniac wrote:
Arnoldc wrote:
caniac wrote:
Arnoldc wrote:

I have a chop saw, easy enough to take care of that. The problem is I dunno what the beat height would be. I've been kicking around 4' or 5'.
that would depend on how you are gonna use it. for the FM station sign i would think a minimum of 3ft, guess it depends on how much info will be on the sign and how big.


Just for the channel info. I plan on 4" lettering. I will prolly end up splitting the difference an go with 4'6"

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caniac wrote:

Or do what i would do and use the pre-cut 5' sections!
4'6"


That would be too easy!

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Now that looks really nice Caniac! I'll take 10 please. j/k

But now I'm seriously thinking of building some ORANGE and BLACK ones for Halloween and using my Flickering Candle sequences for the globes using Orange C7 bulbs. I think that would look awesome and then have chains (the plastic ones liie Michaels and Halloween stores sell) between them, roping off the display area.

I'm more into doing Halloween than CHristmas, but do both. So may build some for Christmas as well. Maybe do about 4, possibly 6 each that I can store at my storage.

Now when I get some FUND$, I'll be taking a trip to Lowes, which in my case is within walking distance of my apartment, but will take the SUV to get everything I need.

Looks like I've got to find that site again where I bought all my C7 sockets from before, I'm going to have to buy a lot more now, I've got a lot of ideas rolling around me liddle brain it's about to pop!:shock: ROFL

And it's all your fault Caniac for posting that photo. :cool::P

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Orville, got a few ideas to for the Halloween part. Was thinking of painting the poll black, making a "gothic" light fixture, then put purple lights in. And to finish it off use your light flickering technique.

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Arnoldc wrote:

Orville, got a few ideas to for the Halloween part. Was thinking of painting the poll black, making a "gothic" light fixture, then put purple lights in. And to finish it off use your light flickering technique.

I was debating on alternating orange and purple lights, all orange or all purple. Might actually make each pole 2 channel and have 1 each inside, then I could also do a slow flickering fade from Orange to Purple or Purple to Orange.

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caniac wrote:

here you go:




All I got to say is . . . NICE!

It really looks great. And I like how the stripes around the pole are not the same width.

BTW, why do you have commercial door handles and openers in your house? ;)

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Cray Augsburg wrote:

caniac wrote:
here you go:




All I got to say is . . . NICE!

It really looks great. And I like how the stripes around the pole are not the same width.

BTW, why do you have commercial door handles and openers in your house? ;)
it's my business office, have one whole office dedicated to LOR and my props. when i need some chill time or to time out, i play with my LOR stuff.

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