Butt Splices

[George Simmons]

Here's a topic I haven't seen argued, er... I mean discussed, here before:

Butt Splices.

How do y''all feel about them? Love 'em or hate 'em, and why? Good idea or bad idea? Safe or unsafe?

[scubado]

What the heck is a Butt Splice?

[Guest guest]

had thought I might use them with the wiring harnesses I created for my mini trees using s shared neutral...but had no need...came up with a better way using inline SPT ends.

[Tim Fischer]

I use a lot of them too. Mostly for "in field" repairs, but when I first deployed my arches, I got lazy and did all the wiring harnesses with them as well because it was much quicker than the solder/heat shrink route I normally prefer.

It's rare that I have a joint based on one of these fail.

-Tim

[scubado]

Ok, now that I'm on the same page on what a butt splice is, I personally wouldn't use them in a stressful situation such as; wet weather, install/uninstall and stretching causing them to come apart or corrode. Solder and heatshrink tubing would be much better solution.

[djr]

I used over 100 this season. Had one GFI pop one time during several days of rain. I stopped the show that evening went out and found there was one connection in a puddle. Moved the offending connection to a higher location reset the GFI restarted the show still in the rain and no more problems.

[Tim Fischer]

scubado wrote:

I personally wouldn't use them in a stressful situation such as; wet weather, install/uninstall and stretching causing them to come apart or corrode. Solder and heatshrink tubing would be much better solution.

I'm not arguing that soldering isn't preferable, but remember that standard mini-lights have the contacts crimped on as well, and are no more sealed.

[Dale J]

i had one of my led strings quit working just to find a cut wire probably from the Staples last year this one i took down and solder and used shrink tube but generally the butt connectors would be much quicker and just as good

[Steven]

• Invest in a good crimp tool (ratcheting). You'll only need to buy it once and it will make the crimps consistent.
• When crimping light string wire (thin gauge) strip it long, then fold it back on itself once or twice and twist it to give the splice something to bite.
• I inject silicon caulk into the butt splices before I crimp them. I'm not sure if that helps or not, so I'd appreciate any feedback.
  

[Jack Stevens]

Steven wrote:

• Invest in a good crimp tool (ratcheting). You'll only need to buy it once and it will make the crimps consistent.
• When crimping light string wire (thin gauge) strip it long, then fold it back on itself once or twice and twist it to give the splice something to bite.
• I inject silicon caulk into the butt splices before I crimp them. I'm not sure if that helps or not, so I'd appreciate any feedback.
  

First point - obviously you have no teenage sons doing anything with your tools. Otherwise you'd buy it more than once
Second point - very good advice
Third point - I'd inject it after doing the crimp, so it wouldn't accidentally insulate something you're trying to do a good connection on.

[Denis Chaput]

Steven wrote:

• 
  
• Invest in a good crimp tool (ratcheting). You'll only need to buy it once and it will make the crimps consistent.
  
• When crimping light string wire (thin gauge) strip it long, then fold it back on itself once or twice and twist it to give the splice something to bite.
  
• I inject silicon caulk into the butt splices before I crimp them. I'm not sure if that helps or not, so I'd appreciate any feedback.
  

Watch what type of silicone you put as the clear stuff has acetic acid and will deteriote over a short period of time. Found out the hard way the white or dark stuff works fine another is the red RTV. That we used at work before I retired can't find it anymore .

[Steven]

Denis Chaput wrote:

the clear stuff has acetic acid and will deteriote over a short period of time.

That explains why the GFCI trips started the second year. Now I have to figure out how to re-seal the splices. Would Plasti Dip work?

[Dennis Eaton]

Plastic tip as you call it (rupperized paint) works well only issue not a quick fix in the feild takes a bit to dry but looks good and you can match colors. I found that it will take about 3 dips to give a thick coat. All the feild repairs I ahve made have been with the heat shrink splices the one major down side is being carefull not to smoke your wire while heating the heat shrink found that one out the hard way...

[friskybri]

I use them in all the arches and light poles. I also use them in field repair of icicle lights because its a pain to get 4 layers of them out over a 14 foot section. So if I cant find the problem with the lights I cut out the section and put in another and splice. I don't use the shrink ones, its a waist for the cost. You can get like 100 for 2 to 3 dollars online. I can take hot clue and glue the ends and that not only keeps the water out but keeps it from being pulled out.



I get mine from here.

http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0222+TM

[Paul Roberson]

Steven wrote:

Denis Chaput wrote:

the clear stuff has acetic acid and will deteriote over a short period of time.

That explains why the GFCI trips started the second year. Now I have to figure out how to re-seal the splices. Would Plasti Dip work?

I use liquid electrical tape.

I even put a dab of it on a joint I have soldered before I slide a heat shrink tube over it. When heating the tube from the middle it will push the liquid out and seal each end.

[khawes]

Paul Roberson wrote:

Steven wrote:

I use liquid electrical tape.

I used the butt splices & sealed them with liquid electrical tape. It worked great, even in the rain. I was careful to be sure that I crimped the wire and then the insulation too so the joint was a bit stronger than wire alone.

[Dr. Jones]

I use butt splices almost daily for work. For our work we use both the insullated type and the non-insulated types. For ease of use the insulated ones work great ( we generally use the heatshrink/adhesive type). For the larger wire 14-1ga The non-insulated work the best, as the shrink that come in the kits contains more adhesive and seals to the wire better.

as for crimpers - I use both ratchetting type and the non-ratchetting type- I still prefer my Klien non-ratchetting crimpers

also- a word of advice- know what type of butt splice you are using( as I do a lot of work hot, I have witnessed people using the non-insulated crimper on an insullated splice and they were in for a shocking experience)

[kzaas]

I too use butt splices, but I have a question for you guys. Why are you worried about sealing the splice when your plugs aren't sealed and neither are the lights?

[Tim Fischer]

kzaas wrote:

I too use butt splices, but I have a question for you guys. Why are you worried about sealing the splice when your plugs aren't sealed and neither are the lights?

That's what I was thinking but not saying

[khawes]

kzaas wrote:

I too use butt splices, but I have a question for you guys. Why are you worried about sealing the splice when your plugs aren't sealed and neither are the lights?

For me the cords are on the ground/roof and the plugs / lights are hanging in space.

I did however cover the socket end of the strings & the dual socket plug with the liquid electrical tape, just to keep drops of water form getting in.