CMB16D-QC

[Denny]

I am curious as to how those of you who ordered the QC version plan to connect your lights, etc. to the board. I didn't order any of them as I already have several of the original boards with the screw terminals, but when I looked at the QC description, that was the first thought that entered my mind. Do you plan to make leads with molex connectors, attach connectors directly to your lights (or whatever) and plug them directly into the board, or have some other plan? With the CMB16D, I have always just attached the stripped wire to the screw terminals.

[rstately]

My plan is to use crimp terminals to attach cat5 keystone jacks to three channels. To end up with 5 keystone jacks and one extra channel, per board. (for Rainbow lights)
I ordered two of the original boards for wiring landscape lighting.
Now that the adrenalin from the summer sale has worn off, I probably should have just paid for the screw terminals. :?
It's like that old saying,
"The early worm gets eaten by the bird!":D

[darrel schweissinger]

I am having problems with my Floods hooked up to my CMB16D, all the led'd are coming on. When I first tested the boards after soldering them, they worked well by them selves.

Now that I have them mounted in flood cases and wired in to my cmb16 controler, I can not get just one color to lite individualy. Is my controler the issue? I have been reading some threads on cathode vs anode and it appears that the controler is( -) swithed or controled and (+) is always on. I'm not sure what the floods are and how to fix the issue if that makes any sence.

Can anyone help!!!!

thanks in advance

[Denny]

Which floods are you using? The VFloods, Rainbow Floods, etc? Are you using the metal flood enclosures and if so, is the board possibly shorting out against the enclosure? Did you solder the Cat 5 cable directly to the board or are you going through the jacks? How did you test them when you said they worked OK after you assembled them? Need a little more info.

[huskernut]

If you are talking about rainbow floods then make sure you didnt tie all of the negatives together or that is exactly what will happen. They will all come on no matter what + you energize.

If you hooked up each channel to the controller with no common ground ( using the unique +/- for each channel), they should work fine as long as the grounds are not connected ( or shorted ) in the enclosure.

[darrel schweissinger]

I made the mistake on thinking I could add heat sinks, fixed now and working with no damage done.

Thank You!

[ryebred]

rstately wrote:

My plan is to use crimp terminals to attach cat5 keystone jacks to three channels. To end up with 5 keystone jacks and one extra channel, per board. (for Rainbow lights)
I ordered two of the original boards for wiring landscape lighting.
Now that the adrenalin from the summer sale has worn off, I probably should have just paid for the screw terminals. :?
It's like that old saying,
"The early worm gets eaten by the bird!":D

You know, I didn't think it through too much when I bought them but probably should have. I saw the new Quick connect boards during the sale and they were $20 cheaper than the screw terminal boards if I remember correctly. So I thought it was a deal to save money and have a quick connect.

But you are right that with the rainbow wall runners, they will be connected with tiny CAT5 wires. Would be easier to poke it through a hole and tighten a screw on it then to try to crimp on some quick connects.

[LightORamaDan]

ryebred wrote:

rstately wrote:

My plan is to use crimp terminals to attach cat5 keystone jacks to three channels. To end up with 5 keystone jacks and one extra channel, per board. (for Rainbow lights)
I ordered two of the original boards for wiring landscape lighting.
Now that the adrenalin from the summer sale has worn off, I probably should have just paid for the screw terminals. :?
It's like that old saying,
"The early worm gets eaten by the bird!":D

You know, I didn't think it through too much when I bought them but probably should have. I saw the new Quick connect boards during the sale and they were $20 cheaper than the screw terminal boards if I remember correctly. So I thought it was a deal to save money and have a quick connect.

But you are right that with the rainbow wall runners, they will be connected with tiny CAT5 wires. Would be easier to poke it through a hole and tighten a screw on it then to try to crimp on some quick connects.

When I was building my first computerized display (before LOR existed) I put about 2,000 quick connect connectors on wire the size of wire in cat5... What I did was strip it "double long", fold the stripped area back on itself and then put it in the quick connect. Worked well.

[TJ Hvasta]

yep, thats what I have to do for thin diam wires.. strip a longer length, fold it several times so it's thicker, and either crimp or solder it.. I like the idea of mounting a screw terminal strip inside.. 'know it defeats the purpose of the quick-connects, but whatever works..

[TJ Hvasta]

Dan,

Any word on these shipping yet?

[marquisite]

Ditto. 4 CMB16D-QC's in my tryforfree order.

Checking my email regularly, hoping to see a new email from orders@lightorama.com .. nothing yet.

[LightORamaDan]

TJ Hvasta wrote:

Dan,

Any word on these shipping yet?

I believe that they will start shipping on Monday Sept 6.

Dan

[marquisite]

Hi Dan,

Have these CMB16D-QC's began to ship out to the first of the eagerly awaiting buyers?

Checking the status of my order daily now, order status still blank hehe.

Have finished crimping on about a third of quick connects for the 64 output cables, now.

Thanks

[huskernut]

Hi Dan,

I was wondering about the old version? Are they on set to ship soon too?

Rick

P.S. guess I missed you when you came in for the wedding, maybe next time!

[scubado]

Today is ten weeks since my order and haven't seen a change in status either. but this thread has me in a possible panic. I just got done wiring 1500 led's RGBW with a common negative, am I screwed?

[Surfing4Dough]

In anticipation of the CMB12D-QC someday coming, can somebody help translate some labels on my power supply? I will be using this for Rainbow floods/spots.

This is the power supply I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-12V-15A-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/220649860672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

The terminal labels are slightly different that what is shown though, and looks like this diagram (with the +V ADJ being an adjustment screw and not a terminal):


I assume L, N, and the ground symbol are where my input cord goes. What is the L, and N though (which wire do I specifically connect here)? Will a computer power cord work for this connection (with PC end cut off)? And I assume that SPT1 wire will work for the outputs (limited to 10A obviously). "COM" is the negative, correct? And what do I use the "+V ADJ" knob for--to tweak the actual output so it is right at 12v?
Thanks so much. I don't feel comfortable messing with electricity until I check with somebody who knows more than I do. Plus don't want to damage anything.

[LightORamaDan]

Surfing4Dough wrote:

In anticipation of the CMB12D-QC someday coming, can somebody help translate some labels on my power supply? I will be using this for Rainbow floods/spots.

This is the power supply I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-12V-15A-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/220649860672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

The terminal labels are slightly different that what is shown though, and looks like this diagram (with the +V ADJ being an adjustment screw and not a terminal):


I assume L, N, and the ground symbol are where my input cord goes. What is the L, and N though (which wire do I specifically connect here)? Will a computer power cord work for this connection (with PC end cut off)? And I assume that SPT1 wire will work for the outputs (limited to 10A obviously). "COM" is the negative, correct? And what do I use the "+V ADJ" knob for--to tweak the actual output so it is right at 12v?
Thanks so much. I don't feel comfortable messing with electricity until I check with somebody who knows more than I do. Plus don't want to damage anything.

The L is line (black wire) N is Neutral (white wire) the ground symbol next to the N is ground (green wire). The two COMs are probably tied together and are the negatives for your 12VDC and the two +V are your +12VDC.. Yes the +V ADJ is to adjust the voltage.

------

The CTB16D-QCs were delayed by the manufacture but we now have them and started shipping on Friday.

Dan

[Surfing4Dough]

LightORamaDan wrote:

The L is line (black wire) N is Neutral (white wire) the ground symbol next to the N is ground (green wire). The two COMs are probably tied together and are the negatives for your 12VDC and the two +V are your +12VDC.. Yes the +V ADJ is to adjust the voltage.

------

The CTB16D-QCs were delayed by the manufacture but we now have them and started shipping on Friday.

Dan

Every answer in there was perfect (ie. electricity for dummies, like I needed), especially the last sentence! Thanks Dan!