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splitting an outlet


Dan Lott

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Hi guys one of the last post i had was about the power needs i have and now i have another question. I am now doing my power upgrade that i needed to do and i was wondering if on my 20 amp outlets i could cut the center of the copper bar one each side of the terminal screws to make one outlet on two separate breakers. This would cut down the cost of extra boxes, extra outlets, extra conduit in half. Just let me know what you think. Thanks


Dan

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I believe that by code, those two breakers must be mechanically bonded so that if one side trips, they both do. Basically, a 240 V breaker.

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Awesome that is what i will do. Thanks for the info you guys are great and it is nice to know that if i get stuck or need help on something that you guys are available and love to help. This forum is great. So once again thank you to all who helps.

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-klb- wrote:

I believe that by code, those two breakers must be mechanically bonded so that if one side trips, they both do. Basically, a 240 V breaker.

I think that is only true if you are using a shared neutral. If you run a seperate neutral and hot to each side I don't think you have to use a 240 or bonded breaker but I am not positive.
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Possibly, I don't have a copy of the NEC, and it is difficult to find definitive answers for some of this stuff on line, or sometimes even looking at the code. Besides, the definitive answer is always the Authority Having Jurisdiction. However, how many people are going to check that both sides of an outlet are actually off before pulling it, rather than presuming that having one side powered down implies that it all is? Thus for safety, I think there is strong incentive to have them linked.

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We had a very similar situation when we built the daughters house - the inspector wanted either only one breaker in the box or both breakers tied so they would both trip if one tripped.

Thats what i know about that. We resolved it by moving one of the feeds to its own box.

Safety first - good plan Dan....

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I just installed a couple of plugs just like this. If you are using 12-3 romex you can use the "shared" neutral. Saves money on wire, however in any case you need to have the two breakers linked. Because if you only trip one to make a repair you still have the other hot that is live. You can get these links from Home Depot. They are about 3/8" round Al and have two "[Foul Language Used]" on the ends. You need to pull both breakers out of the panel and you will see holes on the tab on the breaker. Insert this link between the two tabs and you will have what looks like a double breaker for a 220v application. Insert the two breakers back in the panel with the link in the tabs. Now you are protected. I will take a photo and post it here later tonight.

Jeremy

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brownjm74 wrote:

If you are using 12-3 romex you can use the "shared" neutral. Saves money on wire,


Can you explain this a little more. I am a little out of it today and can't figure for the life of me how i can save wire if i am using romex.

Thanks

Dan :?


Ya wow That was weird. I figured it out brain was not working. I guess what is the price difference between 12-2 and 12-3
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Dan Lott wrote:

brownjm74 wrote:
If you are using 12-3 romex you can use the "shared" neutral. Saves money on wire,


Can you explain this a little more. I am a little out of it today and can't figure for the life of me how i can save wire if i am using romex.

Thanks

Dan :?


Ya wow That was weird. I figured it out brain was not working. I guess what is the price difference between 12-2 and 12-3


He is talking about running one piece of 12/3 romex instead of two pieces of 12/2 romex. You can get two circuits either way.

Scott
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Thanks Scott :cool:

The prices change all the time depending on the price of copper. Usually its 1.5x the cost of 12-2 on a 250' roll.

Also if you use 12-3 for two circuits to one outlet, don't break off the side tab on the Common (white wire) side of the plug(usually a silver or steel color screw). That way you have your shared Common.

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