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LED - Question


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I have five 1602 controllers and one MP3 controller - If I change some of my lights from mini's to LED's do I have to upgrade the firmware in all six of my units?

Also, If I purchase a CTB16PC - kits will they work with LED's?

Are there any hiccups with LEd's?

I'm sure this has been talked about but I took some time off of working on Christmas Lights.

Thanks,

Bill

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If your firmware version is less than 4.0 then for LEDs you should update the firmware in those controllers that are controlling LEDs. If you have the time it would be best to get them all updated but that is only for consistancy's sake and is not necessary. Any versions of firmware / software can work together.

Over 90% of people have no issues at all with LEDs. The others report an occasional flicker when fading or other issues but in general there are no issues with LEDs.

The CTB16PC handles LEDs.

If you are the Bill Jr that wrote an email to LOR today billjr@wil.........ing.com , your mail server will not accept the address and our responses are being rejected. If it it not you then never mind.

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Yes - that was me Dan - I figured out a way to download last night.

Thanks anyways.

It seems since I now have the time, I should just upgrade all six controllers - it won't hurt!

Bill Jr.

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Bill, Yes LEDs draw so little power the triac may not switch properly. So you need more of a current draw on the same channel for it to work right. Add another LED string or a single c7 bulb like from a blow mold or a village light. AI

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I had the opposite problem. My Creative Displays LED strings dimmed fine with LOR, both 1 per channel, and up to 20 per channel. But my two channels with 25+ strings started having issues dimming after a week. Following Dan's advice, adding a small resistive load fixed the problem (in this case, a small string of minis, but it could be anything, probably even just 1 light).

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Does anyone know if all LED 100 strands draw the same amount of power?

Any what does one string of 100 draw?

I am considering changing my entire roof which is 4500 red and 4500 green mini's - I guess I'm a little nervous switching because of not knowing. My roof now works great!

Bill

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Bill; Different colors may draw different currents and the same color from different manufacturers may be different. They are not standardized as much as the C7s and C9s, Minis vary allot too. The maker of the LED strings should be able to tell you and its usually printed on one of the tags that are on the wire. No mater what it will be less power than your minis. AI

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One thing I noticed with my LEDs is that they turn on quicker than normal lights. They still fade and everything, but it is not a linear fade. You can only really notice this on slow fades with both LEDs and non-LEDs. It's not really a problem, but it is something you have to account for.

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AI wrote:

Bill; Different colors may draw different currents and the same color from different manufacturers may be different.

I have NO experience of US type led strings, but if the above quote is true, then NO wonder you guys are having so many problems (fading - not dimming - color changes) with leds - the makers are abusing the poor leds more than even I thought they would to make a faster buck! ALL leds SHOULD pass the same MAX current (about 20ma) thru them - the voltage dropped across them will be different - 1.9 to 2.1 volts per each red or yellow led and between 3 to 3.4 for green, blue or white.
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ALL leds SHOULD pass the same MAX current (about 20ma) thru them - the voltage dropped across them will be different - 1.9 to 2.1 volts per each red or yellow led and between 3 to 3.4 for green, blue or white.

kamahilights; Its the voltage that makes the biggest difference in over all power consumed. The 2 volt strings will have two sets of 50 leds to make 100 total. drawing 40 ma. of current and the 3 volt LED strings will have 3 sets of 35 to make 100 (rounded off) total drawing 60 ma. and will use 1/3 more power than the 2 volt LEDs.

AI
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AI wrote:

...Add another LED string or a single c7 bulb...


You can also use a terminating resistor as described HERE by the "Crazy Light Lady". That way you don't have to worry about the C7 bulb burning out.
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