CTB-16PC VS CTB-16D

[Guest guest]

What’s the difference between the new board with heatsink from LOR (CTB-16PC) and CTB-16D besides the slot power connects and about $50? Can the CTB-16PC handle 20 AMP per side but they can’t sell it that way with out the 20 AMP plug.

Thanks for reply in advance.

[Guest guest]

For everone asking the same question here is a littel mroe info:

http://www.lightorama.com/CTB16PC.html

http://planetchristmas.mywowbb.com/forum25/12907.html

[Guest guest]

A couple things about the 16PC off the top of my head,

No stand alone capability(to be used as part of a controller network, or controlled by a 16D) fully compatable with the 16D, 15amps max per side with standard Heat Sinks, smaller footprint board size, spade lugs rather than screw terminals, no rotary switches to select address (done in hardware utility) can be purchased assembled or in kit form, you can pick and choose what comes with it (Case, heat sinks, power cords, and outlet dongles) must have the standard heat sinks to mount it in the case...

It's a great addition to the list of LOR products, making it an even more affordable lighting control system.

I currently have 8 16Ds and 2 low power standard kit boards. I plan to purchase 6 or 7 of the 16PCs this summer. I can't get over how much fun this is (or how addictive!)

jeff

[Guest guest]

FYI



DrNiceGuy wrote:

Dan,

Can you clarify whether the new board can handle 40A?

Thanks,

Roy

Roy,

We are going to keep it rated at 30A. This simplifies things and allows us to sell the complete package with plastic enclosure. In the plastic enclosure we are supplying, 30A is the most that can be handled and get the heat generated, out through the box.

The card has the same triacs, trace widths and copper thickness as the CTB16D. We have not tested it at 40A continuous duty but I do not expect it would have any issues with that level of current. It would certainly handle 40A intermittently as in a normal light show. The heatsinks are a little smaller than CTB16D... If I were to push it at 40A continuous duty then it would need to be in a metal box with good contact between the heat sink and the metal box to facilitate heat transfer.






____________________
Dan Baldwin
http://www.lightorama.com

[Guest guest]

Thank You DrNiceGuy I dont think my display would get any where close to 40 AMP but I want the option if I go CRAZY ...

[Guest guest]

Do these "forget" their address?
I ask because I have read posts where people are talking about how many times during the season tey have to 'flash' their non-switchable address controllers.

I am kind of nervous about that. Otherwise, I would buy several of these! But if they might be a problem I will keep buying the deluxe kits.

Thanks

RW

[Guest guest]

FBinthesouth wrote:

Do these "forget" their address?

I used 2 of the "Standard" 16D kits in 2006 with no problems. I didn't have to reset or reflash. Once the boarde were flashed, they didn't lose the firmware or settings.

jeff

[Guest guest]

Thanks for that post about holding their 'flash'. Still a little worried just based on the number of posts I've seen here and elswhere. Maybe they had other problems that caused it.

OK then. I'm in for three of them then.

RW

[Guest guest]

FBinthesouth wrote:

Thanks for that post about holding their 'flash'. Still a little worried just based on the number of posts I've seen here and elswhere. Maybe they had other problems that caused it.

OK then. I'm in for three of them then.

RW

I have never heard of a card that needed to be re-flashed.... Some of the original CTB08s that we sold did have a weakness to network noise that could cause them to loose their unit IDs. That issue was corrected in 2005 but there are still a bunch of them out there.

[Guest guest]

My ctb-08 and 16D lasted all season with no reset or firmware change. They are still working fine now in the off season.



--Daniel L

[Guest guest]

Thanks guys. That makes me feel better about buying the 'non-deluxe' models.
Rusty

[Guest guest]

hbomb341 wrote:

Thank You DrNiceGuy I dont think my display would get any where close to 40 AMP but I want the option if I go CRAZY ...

Also, don't forget that 40 amps required 2-20 amp sides. Most household circuits are 15 amps, so you wouldn't even typically be able to use 20 amps unless you install some more circuits in your house (which a lot of people do here).

[Guest guest]

rockyct wrote:

hbomb341 wrote:

Thank You DrNiceGuy I dont think my display would get any where close to 40 AMP but I want the option if I go CRAZY ...

Also, don't forget that 40 amps required 2-20 amp sides. Most household circuits are 15 amps, so you wouldn't even typically be able to use 20 amps unless you install some more circuits in your house (which a lot of people do here).

That's the plan I all ready have purchased my new 200 AMP fuse box and fileld with the fuses of the AMP I need (want) for all of my circut ... Working on getting someone out to install it.