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Working backwards


shfr26

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It is just now after working on seq. for about three days, I went back and started looking at my lights. All I did was list what I had only. I just discovered the ones I bought last year on sale were 200 per string not 100. So now I have six channels overloaded. Don't make the same mistake, save yourself some time. I now have to go back and change a bunch of seq. WORK BACKWARDS to begin with, just as the pro's say to do. Same yourself some time. Hope this helps somebody else out and they don't make the error.

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As with all things in life, there is always an infinite number of solutions to any problem.

In your case, another solution would be to separate each 200-bulb strings into 2 100-bulb string with an extra electric plug.

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That's a good possibility. I will probably have to eliminate some other small decorations to make up for the amperage. Don't know why I sit here and read all the advice and then go do something against it.:?

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With 200 count strings, you should be able to about 12 strings per channel. Are you sure you are overloaded?

Since you appear to be playing around the maximum capacities, I would also recommend that you add a kill-a-watt device to your tool bag. It is relatively inexpensive and will give you a much more accurate picture of what is going on.

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iresq wrote:

With 200 count strings, you should be able to about 12 strings per channel. Are you sure you are overloaded?

Since you appear to be playing around the maximum capacities, I would also recommend that you add a kill-a-watt device to your tool bag. It is relatively inexpensive and will give you a much more accurate picture of what is going on.



I thought that one amp per channel was max. These lights came from Walgreens, are suppose to be 40% less draw. I checked one string of red and clear 200, was about .4 amps. So I figure that to be two strings per channel, or am I figuring wrong?? Which is highly possible with me.:) And yes I am looking for a meter at this time, just haven't got one yet.
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What controllers/heat sync's do you have?

For the PC line, your channel limits are as follows:

No heat sync - 1 amp
Low power heat sync - 2 amp
High power heat sync - 8 amp (please note you still only have 15 amps per side unless you modify)

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PC with high heat sync. I guess the easiest thing to do would be buy two more controllers and not worry about it. Should I tell my wife this is the only solution??:)


And by the way, Does anybody know where the avatar came from?? It just appeared on my computer the other day in my documents.

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PC controllers with high heat sync will give you 8 amps per channel, 15 amps per side, 30 amps per controller. Using .4amp/string, you could have up to 20 strings per channel, 37 strings per side, and 75 strings total. This is assuming that all will be on at the same time for a considerable period (seconds). It is worth noting that fades to not greatly reduce the power draw.

Yes, you do NEED (we all do) another controller but probably not due to your 200 count strings.

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shfr26 wrote:

Should I tell my wife this is the only solution??:D

That depends on how committed she is to synchronized lights. I tried that approach last year and it worked. So I went back to the well again this year and she said that if I couldn't make 19 controllers work for me that we'd just have to go back to a static display...
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