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Pigtail Tee


Little_b

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I'm looking for a 3/4/3 Pigtail Tee and was wondering if anyone knows where to find one.  I've looked, but can't find one in this configuration, or one that is somewhat similar.

 

               +V  ------------------------------------------------------ +V

 3 Pin      -V   ------------------------------------------------------ -V          3 Pin

                DO  --------------------            ----------------------- DI

                                               I  I   I

                                         DO +V  -V  DI

                                              4 Pin

 

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Unlike the others, I understand exactly what you are trying to accomplish, but I would most likely just solder up the appropriate connections and weatherproof it.

 

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1 hour ago, smithzone said:

I guess I could see doing this for a null pixel - what would you use it for?

An example is that I will have six candy canes in a row.  Each candy cane will have 16 pixels.  Data and power enter the candy cane at the bottom.  At the top end of the crook, the data only returns to the bottom of the candy cane, rejoins the power and ground to go the next candy cane.  This Tee would be perfect if I were using connectorized wiring.

 

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Yep, makes sense - similar to my null pixel concept, just a handful of operational ones on each branch and might help with long runs

I haven't bought any pixel icicles, but they may be wired internally in a similar fashion

 

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17 minutes ago, k6ccc said:

An example is that I will have six candy canes in a row.  Each candy cane will have 16 pixels.  Data and power enter the candy cane at the bottom.  At the top end of the crook, the data only returns to the bottom of the candy cane, rejoins the power and ground to go the next candy cane.  This Tee would be perfect if I were using connectorized wiring.

 

Why not do 1 universe of 96 pixels? Just daisy chain them together.

I did this with my 8 mini ghosts and it works great. No need for any special adapter cable. Each ghost is 21 pixels for a total of 168 pixels. I use a 5ft M/F extension cable to connect each one.

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2 minutes ago, gsmith37064 said:

Why not do 1 universe of 96 pixels? Just daisy chain them together.

I did this with my 8 mini ghosts and it works great. No need for any special adapter cable. Each ghost is 21 pixels for a total of 168 pixels. I use a 5ft M/F extension cable to connect each one.

No point in having the power for candy canes 2 - 6 going through the wiring for candy cane 1, etc.  The data only does daisy chain through all 96 pixels, but the power has no need to.  Also less wire to have to run back down the candy cane.  And as I said in my first post, no special adapter, just how I solder the wires.  If this does not make sense, I can draw a picture.

 

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21 hours ago, k6ccc said:

An example is that I will have six candy canes in a row.  Each candy cane will have 16 pixels.  Data and power enter the candy cane at the bottom.  At the top end of the crook, the data only returns to the bottom of the candy cane, rejoins the power and ground to go the next candy cane.  This Tee would be perfect if I were using connectorized wiring.

 

Sorry I have been away for a few days to reply.  This is similar to what I'm trying to use it for.  Only different props.  This way I can disconnect each prop instead of having them all wired together making storage a little easier, plus only having to attach one connector to the prop instead of 2.  I have considered using the 4 pin connectors as an alternative, but was just seeing what options were out there.  I have found with my fence posts that if I wire them in this manner, I don't have as much voltage drop as I do if the power has to go through each pixel on each post.  Mathematically it shouldn't matter, but according the Volt meter it is there.  If I daisy chain posts 1-5 together in series I see a drop in post 5, as to be expected.   If I attach the power in posts 1-5 in parallel the voltage drop is almost half that of the one's in series.  I don't know if it's the strips or chips that cause a drain, but the readings are what they are, and so is the brightness in the white color.  ( The data line is still connected in series from one post to the next.)

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15 minutes ago, Little_b said:

Sorry I have been away for a few days to reply.  This is similar to what I'm trying to use it for.  Only different props.  This way I can disconnect each prop instead of having them all wired together making storage a little easier, plus only having to attach one connector to the prop instead of 2.  I have considered using the 4 pin connectors as an alternative, but was just seeing what options were out there.

Here is a suggestion (likely what I'm going to do with my candy canes).  Put a three wire connector (or a four wire with only three used) just downstream of each prop.  That way, for storage each prop will have a pigtail to the connector, and a cable however long to the next prop (about five feet in my case) with connector on the end.  Other option would be have one cable from the controller to each prop in series with a four wire connector tapping off to each prop.  This is what you were looking for except if I did it, I would solder the "T" functionality and only have the four wire connector to the prop.  However I'm gathering that you are trying to do this without soldering wires.

24 minutes ago, Little_b said:

I have found with my fence posts that if I wire them in this manner, I don't have as much voltage drop as I do if the power has to go through each pixel on each post.  Mathematically it shouldn't matter, but according the Volt meter it is there

Oh contrair.  Mathematically it makes perfect sense.  There is resistance in the pixel wiring, so having the power route through each prop will result in additional voltage drop.

 

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