rcktpwrd Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 I picked up a couple of SSR's last year and got to wiring and testing them out just recently. I am going to use these to control inflatables with LOR, the idea is to have as much stuff turned on/off with LOR and get rid of the timers/photocells we are using... Basically have as much stuff automated as possible. These are rated for 25amps, so they should be more than enough for a couple inflatables each. Now I just need to find something to place these into for weather and electrocution protection... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 2 hours ago, rcktpwrd said: I picked up a couple of SSR's last year and got to wiring and testing them out just recently. I am going to use these to control inflatables with LOR, the idea is to have as much stuff turned on/off with LOR and get rid of the timers/photocells we are using... Basically have as much stuff automated as possible. These are rated for 25amps, so they should be more than enough for a couple inflatables each. Now I just need to find something to place these into for weather and electrocution protection... Those need to be heat sinked if you are using more than a few amps (unlikely, since you have used SPT-1 ) a 6" Nema box is weather resistant if mounted vertical a bit above ground http://www.homedepot.com/p/WIEGMANN-6-in-x-6-in-x-4-in-NEMA-3R-Enclosure-RSC060604RC/100567817 And if you use round cord (cut a short heavy duty extension cord) these are the sealed strain reliefs http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Strain-Relief-Cord-Connectors-2-Pack-21692/100207234 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 (edited) After reading again... Never mind. Edited October 18, 2017 by Santas Helper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Arch Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I'm confused as to why you think you need them in the first place. Inflatables are typically 120V, so you are probably just worried about the motor inrush amps. You said you only have a couple of them. So stagger them on different channels by a few seconds and the inrush wouldn't be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcktpwrd Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 (edited) 18 hours ago, Mega Arch said: I'm confused as to why you think you need them in the first place. Inflatables are typically 120V, so you are probably just worried about the motor inrush amps. You said you only have a couple of them. So stagger them on different channels by a few seconds and the inrush wouldn't be a problem. I have read that it is not a good to directly turn on/off motors with a LOR controller. I would rather play it safe and the SSR's are cheap enough. We have two large inflatables (one is 9 feet and the other is 13 feet tall) and a couple of small ones along with some LED flood lights that will probably be on these two circuits and and possibly a few other light strings... Edited October 18, 2017 by rcktpwrd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, rcktpwrd said: I have read that it is not a good to directly turn on/off motors with a LOR controller. I would rather play it safe and the SSR's are cheap enough. We have two large inflatables (one is 9 feet and the other is 13 feet tall) and a couple of small ones along with some LED flood lights that will probably be on these two circuits and and possibly a few other light strings... I have a 30' inflatable tree and a 20' Santa, I cut the lights and wired them seperately so I could control the lights and the blower motors seperately. Each inflatable now has two seperate power cords each. Blowers stay plugged in and I can control the lights. Edited October 18, 2017 by Mr. P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcktpwrd Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 2 hours ago, Mr. P said: I have a 30' inflatable tree and a 20' Santa, I cut the lights and wired them seperately so I could control the lights and the blower motors seperately. Each inflatable now has two seperate power cords each. Blowers stay plugged in and I can control the lights. I'm not looking to control the lights in the inflatables separately, just want to be able to power the inflatables on at the beginning of the show then off at the end. In past years we have been using separate timers/photocells and some things would come on too soon/late or turn off too soon/late and be out of sync with the entire length of the show. I am trying to get everything to turn on at say 5pm and then off at say 10pm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Arch Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 I use one 40amp timer to 9 different gfci receptacles. So I don't run mine through the controllers. They just come on at the same time. Foot note - my wife makes me put all my inflatables in the backyard. ? But the positive was "well then, I need more lights for the front yard!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a31ford Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Just so ppl understand the motor thing... if you are using the PC or olderstyle 16 channel through hole boards, (like the DIY stuff), you could simply replace the MOC-3010 or MOC-3011 Optocouplers with MOC-3031, which the latter being zero crossing triggered opto's this would deal with the motor issue AND, would convert the channels that you changed to ON/OFF ONLY channels... (They would NO LONGER, dim). perfect to do a couple of channels on each side of a dual 20amp highpower box. this would yield less wire clutter, and a "one box does all" approach, saving the precious 40 days left before Dec. 01 for sequences... instead of hardware. Just Sayin... :)_ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts