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  2. Same as above, my apologies. Enjoy Sent with instructions JR
  3. Not sure how I missed it. Sent with instructions. Enjoy JR
  4. Today
  5. The other alternative to breaking wires is to remove the channel fuse from the controller and measure the current across the fuse terminals. Again the DVM needs to have enough current handling to support this.
  6. When you see MORE or LESS units than you are expecting, that is typically a controller that needs to be reset OR dirty communications. Also remember that weird things like this may NOT be where you expect. You are getting multiple CMB24s, but the issue may NOT be the CMB24 - it could be something else which is forcing the CMB24 to act screwy. First, reset ALL of your controllers using the instructions in the manuals. A power on/off is NOT a reset. Now test again and see if things are better. If not, the next thing to do is changing out all the CAT 5 cable. If you haven't, please open a help desk ticket so we can help.
  7. Good info. Thanks. BobW
  8. I was thinking of doing DC strings indirectly with it. Breaking a + line to insert the typical Amp meter is a real PITA, so measure the PSU AC load delta but I just did a search and things have changed (still pricier than a cheapo DVM) https://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-Clamp-Current-Detector/dp/B000BEZV5O there are ones under $100, that you just clamp around the lead like you did with the old AC ones (that I have a couple of)
  9. Totally agree, this should be a tool in every lighters bag. You can measure a single string or an entire circuit. https://www.homedepot.com/s/kill%20a%20watt?NCNI-5
  10. The easiest is to get a DC clamp ammeter. Not cheap but I find it very useful in this hobby. You can purchase a Digital Multimeter such as this for as little as $5.00. https://www.amazon.com/Function-Digital-Multimeter-Harbor-Freight/dp/B07BV833YN Its only rated for for 5a so need to be careful. Most of them are fused internally. You're running the power through the meter (in series). You could also use something like this which is typically used in the RC hobby. https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Detector-Analyzer-Current-Voltage/dp/B07PKHPC1T/ref=pd_day0_hl_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07PKHPC1T&pd_rd_r=002a392b-664e-11e9-a637-6b060766031a&pd_rd_w=VRPv3&pd_rd_wg=f8JlA&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=T9D8F80Q013Q746QM7C6&psc=1&refRID=T9D8F80Q013Q746QM7C6
  11. CMB24's have switches. be sure you have them firmly in On or OFF. You might exercise the upper octet switches(2,3,4,5) 10,11,12 are normally OFF. 12 is used to reset the board (see the manual for the sequence)
  12. This is where having a Hall Effect clamp-on Amp meter would be handy. Not cheap, but, they work sweet. Just like you would with the AC version Come to think. Use a Kill-a-Watt. Very cost effective. Measure the idle watts, then set 1 string to white. The diff, should be close enough for planning (you couls then do multiples, to see if it tracks
  13. Don't go off of what the manufacturer tells you. Test the strings. You can buy a $10 meter from Harbor Freight. I've never had 12v nodes that were 60ma white. I run my whole display at 30% intensity or less. Average is around 20ma white at 30% intensity
  14. Well I hooked up my three controllers. 2 basic 16 channel and one 24cmd flood controller. They are 1,2,3. When i do a network search it is finding 6 controllers. 1 and 2 seem fine but there is a 3,13,23,33. All 24cmd controllers. Tried to unplug the flood controller and reset it, but now the unit ID wont change. I have no idea what I did to cause this or how to correct it. mike
  15. In the Advanced Port Setting you can set the Max Intensity. You can also adjust the intensity in the Sequencing Suite Software as well.
  16. Can you tell me how the pix Con 16 does it thank you
  17. Yesterday
  18. The amp rating of the controller board is just that - a max rating. Has nothing to do with how much current is passing through it at any given time. As a general rule of thumb, most controller boards are rated for either four or five amps per output. There is also generally a max limit for either the entire board or each half. Your three amps per output should be fine for any controller that I know of. As for your last paragraph, the Pixie controllers have no ability to reduce the outputs by a percentage, the PixCon16 does.
  19. This is the reply from the company from whom I bought my 50 count 12v rgb smart pixels from. I have the lor 16 channel pixel controller v4 and I also have pix con 16 pixel controller and I also have 4 channel pixel controller. I don't think these boards have the ability to change the amps built in to them.I believe it has to be done in the hard ware utility is this right new to rgb ??? thank you don't have a video on this, but our 12v 12mm pixels are 0.06amps per bulb, if you are running the full white. The amps change based on the color the bulb is projecting. So if you plan on 3amps for a 50 count strand you’ll be safe. (50 x 0.06amps = 3amps) The calculate watts: amps x voltage = watts In the case of the 50 count strand: 3amps x 12v = 36 watts. Again, this assumes you are running full white on the lights which would be your worse case scenario. Not to complicate this, but most rgb controllers have the ability to reduce the output of the strands. So you could set the controller to 50% output, which would reduce you to 1.5amps, yet, the brightness of the lights will still be good enough for your display. This would let you reduce the amount of power supplies you need to run your lights.
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