Converting a 1602W to a single power cord

[rwertz]

I'd like to convert my LOR1602W Showtime controllers to a single input cord (~ LOR1600W). The highest current I have on one 1602 is 8 amps total and I'm getting a tired of using triple tap adapters.

The neutral jumper is obvious. But one of the hot jumper terminals would already in use by the existing power feed wire. I think I can fit two 14 gauge wires into the screw terminal, but it would be tight. I was also thinking I could make a "Y" cable for the power feed (using a wire nut).

Any thoughts? If anyone has a 1600W, it would be nice to know how it is done on that unit from the factory.

[Guest wbottomley]

Reg...

your one input cable would connect to the right side of the board. Then, place jumper wires on the neutral and hot jumper terminals.

You shouldn't need to place two wires under any terminal screw.

It would look something like this:

[-klb-]

The 1602 comes from the factory connected a bit differently than the CTB16D. Because the 1602 has fuse holders in the inner face, they don't need to use the fuse holders on the board. To bypass them, hot power from the front face fuse holders goes to the hot jump connectors on the board.

One way you could do it is leave in just the right side cord, going to hot jumper. Put a jumper from the standard power in on one side, to the standard power in on the other. Then put 20A fuses in both on board fuse holders. The 15A in the inner face will probably blow first in most (but not all) cases. By wiring it this long way around, you also have the right bank current draw not going through the on board 20 A fuses, increasing even more the odds that the on board fuses won't blow before the one in the inner face.

Or, you could take the inner face out, run power to the right power inlet, put in a 15A fuse, and put a jumper in the hot jumper connectors.

[rwertz]

Thanks William and Kevin. I was starting to think about the on board fuse holders also. I like the idea of only running current for the left bank through the on board fuse.

I should be able to get away with just adding one fuse in the right on board fuse holder (to connect the "hot input" to the "hot jumper" screw terminal for that side). Then run a jumper from the right "hot input" to the left "hot jumper" screw terminal.

Since the entire board would be protected by the face plate fuse, I was thinking about using a 30A fuse on the board to prevent it from blowing. But I'm a little concerned a fire inspector might look at a 30A fuse in a slot labeled 20A and reject a claim.

[-klb-]

You could use a 15A fast acting fuse in the face plate, and see if you can find a 20A slow blow ceramic for the right on board fuse holder....

[rwertz]

That would probably help. The original 15A ceramic fuses in the faceplate are already fast acting.