LOR Controller Sub Panel Config

[Sparky Griswold]

To All,

First, thank you for any and all responses. Being new, I'm reasearching the best way to utilize my current 8/16 Cuttler Hammer sub panel for my 4 LOR 16/2 controllers. I have a twin 70amp breaker from my main 200amp service powering my subpanel. I'm open to recomendations. Thank you.

Bryan
Phoenix AZ

[PaulXmas]

Depends on the draw.

What kind of lights how many and so on...

My whole yard uses about 17 or so AMPs if everything was turned on.

I have a few thousand minis and the rest are LED.

This year I will have 6 or 7 controllers hooked up.

I can easily get away with 2 15 AMP curcuits.

Some guys on here use motors and draw many times what I do.

[Sparky Griswold]

Hi Paul.



Thank you. For argument sake, I want a dedicated 30 amps to each controller, no less. I know that a 30 amp breaker requires a minimum 10/2 wire config. I guess my question is, can a residential GFI outlet handle that load?

[Dave Batzdorf]

I honestly do not know if a 30-amp gfci is available. I also think 20-amp breakers with 20-a gfci would suffice.

[shfr26]

bryanblake wrote:

Hi Paul.



Thank you. For argument sake, I want a dedicated 30 amps to each controller, no less. I know that a 30 amp breaker requires a minimum 10/2 wire config. I guess my question is, can a residential GFI outlet handle that load?

I assume you mean 15 amps per side correct? Then two 15 amp GFI'S?

Last year I ran two controllers and about 10,000 lights drawing 22-25 amps max.

[PaulXmas]

Firstly "I am NOT an electrician"!

But they do make 50 AMP GFI (we have one for our hot tub)

But the wire size and so on I have no idea.

on a side note I want to see this display when it is done.

120 AMPS! WOW!

[shfr26]

In regards to your controllers, you will need two 15 or 20 amp GFI's, one for each side ( 8 channels) depending on your conrollers, they are either rated for 15 or 20 amps. 12 ga wire will work for that. For your sub panel, I do not know exactly, but I think my electrician used #6 wire. I have 8 breakers in my sub panel for 4 controllers all 15 amp. My outlets are wired so each outlet is on two breakers, one for each plug in the outlet. The bar across the side has to be removed to create two seperate plugs. Hope that makes sense to you.

[Sparky Griswold]

That is the best solution I have heard yet. Thank you. That makes perfect sense. I have found they don't make a 30amp gfi and I'm not spending $50+ for a 50amp gfi.

If you remove the bridge on an outlet it creates two seperate circuits thus allowing you to run two 15amp breakers to one outlet rather than two outlets. Brilliant. In residential homes this is how in any given room the light switch on the wall activates a lamp in the room while the bottom plug is always hot for your alarm clock other wise known as a half hot receptical. No reason this can't work for an exterior application for each plug to remain hot. Thank you very much.

[shfr26]

In my case each 15 amp breaker is a GFI. I think that your 50 amp GFI for your hottub is probably 220 volts not 110. You need a GFI on each side or 8 channels of your controller, not just one 30 amp for the whole controller. This way you cannot overload either side of your controller and blow a fuse. On that note, make sure you get a few extra fuses to have around just in case.

[Sparky Griswold]

This still unfortunately doesn't answer my question regarding breakers. I think the only way to truly dedicate 30 amps to a controller is to provide 2 15amp breakers.

[PaulXmas]

Ya I think the GFI is for 220.

The GFI is in the main panel and at the sub panel it goes to the hot tub and a single 15 AMP breaker.

Breaking the tab is done in kitchens as well.

You can use high powered appliances on both without tripping the breaker (which is one of those double throws 15 AMPS each)

[Sparky Griswold]

Thank you again to everyone. Very much apprecaited.

[shfr26]

That is correct , Each controller is max 30 amps, 15 per side, 8 max on a channel. Each controller needs two 15 amp GFI breakers and in my case by splitting the outlet only one outlet. Mine are 4 gang outlets, so two controllers, 4 plugs two outlets, 4 GFI"s. I think we are trying to say the same thing only in different terms. Correct?

[Guest wbottomley]

I will be running 40+ controllers on 10 20 amp circuits and 125K lights.

[Sparky Griswold]

yes, and thank you for clarifying. My biggest thing is I want the full capacity of the controller when and if needed at any given time. I'm just trying to accomplish this by the shortest route possible.

I completely understand that one controller, depending on circuits used, total load etc may not be a total of 30 amps or even close but I dont want to have to constantly be doing my math to make sure i'm under those tollerances. 30 amps dedicated per controller. This allows me to just configure the contants; 8 amps per channel and 30 amps per controller. Thank you again.

[Dave Batzdorf]

Here is my set up. I also build in loops (next post) on the hot side to be able to monitor the draw in real-time.


Attached files

[Dave Batzdorf]

Here are the loops. I use a clamp-on amp meter for the measurements.


Attached files

[Sparky Griswold]

Dave, great set up. My controllers will have to be taken down every year however. Love the loop set up. Question, do I see 20amp gfi's in your set up?

what are the first two panel numbered 1&2? I see the two controllers. Just curious. Thanks again for sharing.



Bryan

[Surfing4Dough]

bryanblake wrote:

yes, and thank you for clarifying. My biggest thing is I want the full capacity of the controller when and if needed at any given time. I'm just trying to accomplish this by the shortest route possible.

I completely understand that one controller, depending on circuits used, total load etc may not be a total of 30 amps or even close but I dont want to have to constantly be doing my math to make sure i'm under those tollerances. 30 amps dedicated per controller. This allows me to just configure the contants; 8 amps per channel and 30 amps per controller. Thank you again.

I understand what you are saying, but figured I would throw this out there in case it helps at all and you aren't aware of it. If you figure what your total Amps are per channel and then run you sequences through LOR Utility, it will figure out what the max power requirement is for any given tenth of a second during each sequence. It does all the math for you--and graphs it too. Very useful utility. The website can explain it better than I can.
http://www.t2lights.com/christmas/lorutility.html

[Dave Batzdorf]

Bryan - yes 20-amp gfci and two 60-a subpanels. They are connected to my main via a temp 6-ga cable. Basically an extension cord of sorts. Its only out for the Halloween and Christmas season.