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How to make static light


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Hi , i buy some nice 100 light mini led green to my LOR this year, but every pack have a littte box make twile, flshing, dimming efect.

I need soldering something that the led just turn on in a static light and cancel all efects in box

somebody can sayme what i should soldering to cancel efects and turn lighst on all time? and conect to my LOR ?


110 V 60Hz/8W
100 leds



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I am not an electronics guy so I can't help you solve the problem but no one else is responding to your multiple posts.

There are some similar lights being sold here that say, "Can not be converted to steady on" right on the box. If this set provides many blinking options but steady on is not one of them, there is probably a reason for that. My guess would be different power needs for all on at once versus a few at a time.

Good luck with your project.

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From looking at the pictures I figured this: There is a full bridge rectifier, two limiting resisters, button, control IC, switching resisters. If you have a meter take a voltage reading from the far right solder trace (in your top photo, wire with the knot) and one of the other output leads above it.(with the unit on) this will give you a base line voltage reading. (ie.....24volts dc) Once you find this you can remove the wires from the board and come up with a power supply. Or use a LOR DC controller. There is a common lead (lower right of the board) and four outputs. Each output should be the same voltage. It appears that the resister at the bottom photo is the dropping resister that feeds the switching transisters. check voltage between that resister and the common wire(wire with the knot) this should give you the induvidule string operating voltage. hope this helps

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One of the resistors appears to feed the A.C. voltage into the IC (located on the daughter card), probably for timing.

The other resistor drops the rectified high voltage down to a suitable voltage for the IC. This is also filtered by the capacitor so the IC can work properly.

The 4 strings seem to have a common positive, and switched negative. The switches are probably bipolar transistors.

Since I don't see resistors in series with the LED's, I assume they have built-in resistors, since bipolar transistors vary too much to provide reliable and cheap current limiting.

Therefore, I believe your could get all four strings on by removing the IC daughter card, the two resistors, the capacitor, and the 4 transistors. Jumper the 4 transistors from their E to C leads. These are the leads on the right.

In other words, look at this picture and remove everything with a blue X or red line, because they won't be needed. Then install jumpers where the red lines are.

If you want to be able to switch back to using the built-in effect box, then leave everything in, but just install jumpers where the red lines are.

Attached files 188568=10638-barbosaa fix.PNG

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I agree - to disable the multi-function control, join the terminals at the red lines. I would not bother removing any of the components at the blue crosses. Removal is not necessary.

In Australia, we have been disabling controllers for some time. (eg see http://groups.google.com/group/aussie-lor-users/browse_thread/thread/f1c692fb2afb9b6c ). While most of ours are 24V supply, (transformer step down from 240V), the circuits for all are similar. There is a 4 diode rectifier which produces an unfiltered DC supply for the lights. A controller chip activates the different control modes and controls the gate on 2 or more transistors/triacs which feed voltage to the outputs for the channels. The standard mod is to simply connect the supply voltage to the outputs, ie join at the red lines.

Regards Geoff

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