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Splitting or hubbing USB or CAT5


Robert Mickolayck

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I have one controller with a defective output jack. I can't repair it in time this season. So, is it possible to split the output from the PC, either the USB port, or after the adapter by splitting the CAT5 or CAT3 signal, and run that way? Has anyone tried that?

Thanks!

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I would say based on this part of the description on the linked page - "Supports one active connection at a time." - that adapter will almost certainly not work for LOR. A true splitter, which would NOT work for ethernet, WOULD probably work okay for an LOR network. Using the phone cord as you suggest will also work.

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So long as it's a 1 for 1 pin splitter, it will work. This particular splitter has been used (not by me) in a LOR network with no problem. It is true, however, that you can not use standard network devices such as hubs.

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The device that is hot linked appears to be a pin for pin spliter. Although I caught that statement about "only one active user" also. But then too, was not an ethernet hub the same way? As long as there is no electronics in the splitter then I can see no harm.

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The device in the link claimed to allow two computers to share a DSL connection. Based on that, I took it to mean the device is a switch in the physical sense, not in the network sense. If it's really just a pin-for-pin splitter, I guess it would work for LOR but maybe not for a DSL modem as advertised.

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I just want to split the cable from my computer. One cable in to my first controller, with the defective output, and the other into controller two, and its subsequent controller.

It's worth a try.

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An easy fix would be to put the broken controller at the end of your network. Just change the ID. Sometimes the simple solutions are the hardest to find.

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Thanks, Dave. I thought of that, but unfortunately, the box the unit is in is different than the others, and I have a problem putting it where the last one is located. I may have to do so, though.

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I've traced the circuit on the boards and YES they are hardwired together so any standard 8 pin phone spliiter or "Y" will have the same effect. It must be 1 for 1 as previously mentioned. You can verify this by looking at the back of the board and physically SEE that they are tied together. I looked into this when I was working on a hardwired alarm idea last year.

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Thanks for all the help. I split the phone cable coming out of the USB adapter, and everything works beautifully. Now I might finally be able to get to the other side of the house without going wireless!

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