Snow machine and x10

[eric dominguez]

I need a little help I’m trying to hook up a snow machine using an X-10. I have an x10 receptacle do I need an x10 transmitter or can I use my LOR software and how do I use the program.

Eric

[iresq]

When you say snow machine, are you talking about the small bubble kind or the DIY honest to goodness snow maker? Were you looking to make snow at certain times or by some other trigger?

To operate your receptacle, you will need to send it an x10 signal. This can be done in a variety of ways.

To incorporate X10 with LOR, you will need a CM11a module. This is the module that connects your computer to the power lines to send signals. Problem is the CM11a is no longer made. They can be found in used market. The downside to CM11a is that it requires a serial connection. If you don't have a serial port, some have been successful using a usb to serial adapter. I have not had success doing this.

The current X10 interface is the CM15a. It utilizes USB connection that is currently not supported by LOR. was hoping they would have added support this year.

There may be other options just using LOR. For a couple of bucks, you could build a simple relay that is triggered by LOR. What are the power requirements for the snow machine?

[eric dominguez]

The Snow machine is one of the regular bubble ones that you buy in the store.

I keep reading not to plug the in to the LOR directly but to use an x10 unit and go through a serge protector

I can understand that pluging the snow machine directly into the lor draws to much current if this why the don't want you to plug it into the LOR direct.



Eric

[Frank A.]

Good morning


New cm11a is available but limited -- I recently purchased a spare


here is vendor I used

http://www.automatedoutlet.com/Home/Appliance-Modules/[highlight= #ffff88]X10[/highlight]-AM486

The cm11a is the controller - rs232 to computer, plugs into a house outlet -

The cm11a is LOR sequence editor controllable and addressable

If you do not have a rs232 port on computer you

need an usb to rs232 convertor cable

I utilize Radio Shacks http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3120513

The appliance module would plug into an outlet located

near the equipment you want to control -- it has rotary dials to set

the address A1 to P?, lots of channels.

It is a straight forward way to control on off devices

that are not critical in the timing area. It is possible to see

a one second delay from command sent to response with [highlight= #ffff88]X10[/highlight] equipment

The idea of [highlight= #ffff88]X10[/highlight] control is to utilize the house wiring (120 vac 60 hz)

The [highlight= #ffff88]x10[/highlight] controller sends signals at a different frequency(hz)

on the house wiring

From the master controller (cm11a) signals can be sent

to multiple devices for control of lighting, appliances, etc.



Frank A.



Attached files

[Frank A.]

Also this post may help

http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/view_topic.php?id=20310&forum_id=79&highlight=x10

Frank A.

[Richard Hamilton]

For X10, I don't use those older designed cheap units like they still sell in Radio Shack and other places. They are just too unreliable in my opinion and have several design flaws. After all, they were designed in the 1980s!

SmartHome has a much better redesigned X10 series. Yup they are more expensive, but they work well. There is no limitation of minimum current draw in order to switch properly and they have two way communication so the transmitter or computer can confirm that the unit is actually on or off. They are also much more sensitive and more immune to line noise that causes false switching.

There is indeed also a computer controller available called the PowerLinc. I use the model 1132CU, but since I bought it 4 years ago (still working well), there are probably newer models. It is also a USB connection to the computer so does not use serial. A nice advantage of it is that unlike some of the other computer controllers, it stores the commands in flash memory so you don't need a connection to the computer once it is programmed.

In the last year, I have started switching from X10 to Insteon. They are very dependable.

http://www.smarthome.com/_/X10_Compatible/_/23X/land.aspx

[eric dominguez]

Thank you.

Frank How do I program it with the LOR sequence On a certain channel with the USB, In other words how do I send the signal to it.
Eric

[iresq]

eric dominguez wrote:

Thank you.

Frank How do I program it with the LOR sequence On a certain channel with the USB, In other words how do I send the signal to it.
Eric

Well, I'm not Frank but...

In LOR, create a channel, device type X10, set the address. As you probably know, On and Off only. What I don't know (cause I can't get mine to work), is if you keep sending the on command because there technically is no off command in LOR, just an absence of effect.

In your hardware utility, go to the X10 tab, select the comm port that your usb to serial is assigned too. It should automatically be included in the drop down box.

[Dan Lott]

I just picked up a whole x 10 kit of ebay and just wondering how sensitive x 10 really is. Also i plan on using a usb to serial adapter. iresq you said you had no luck with it and just wondered why. Im just wondering and hoping it will work for me as i have a cm11a, 4 appliance modules a lamp module and a couple of 3 way switches so i can control my house lights with the show. So could you please or anyone explain what kind of trouble i may get into with this x 10, like not working or wrong signals cause of noise in the house lines. Totally new to x 10 and know nothing about the details, but i do understand how it runs.

[JBullard]

Dan,

X10 sends it's signals on your household power lines.

The standard X10 stuff is not very powerfull signal wise, and a lot of homes have a lot of items that will absorb the X10 signals, or create additional noise on the powerlines that will confuse the X10 signal. X10 filters quite often have to be installed to prevent this extra noise.

Devices that have been know to result in X10 problems, and may require X10 filters, include (but not limited to) switching power supplies (some laptops are really bad), various kinds of wall warts, refrigeration compressors, TVs, surge suppressors, even $1 LED night lights.

Also bear in mind, that some homes require a coupler/amplifier be installed at the breaker panel, so the X10 signal can cross from one power leg to another.

Not to sound negative or say X10 won't work, just remember it is very old technology, and homes today have many more electronic gadgets that can interfer with X10 signals

I started using X10 back in the late 70's (the old BSR brand) and have used X10 throughout all my houses since. As Richard mention, the Smarthome products do perform better then the standard X10 brand.

I have the Elk ESM-1 X10 signal meter that I rely on for finding X10 signal problems.

I do not use X10 with LOR, and I don't even own a CM-11a anymore. I use the Ocelot for controlling all of my X10 devices.

[Frank A.]

eric

sorry for the delay getting back to you

became unavailable most of the day

the cool thing about this forum is you don't have to wait for

one responder

iresq answered what you need to do

do not understand his problem not getting x10 equipment working

of course i say that without even testing x10 on my vista unit

I run xp on show computer and everything set up last year

the show computer also has a rs232 port that is used with the cm11a

just getting around to setting up and testing this year

Again sorry for the delay in response

Frank A.

[iresq]

I am pretty sure my issue is with the software that came with my serial to usb cable. When I launch the Hardware Utility with the CM11A plugged in, it finds it on comm port 5. When I try to send signal (either through the hardware utility or sequence editor) nothing happens.

Like John, I too have a EMS01 signal meter and use an Ocelot for controlling X-10. I have not tried the Ocelot with the usb to serial adapter. In fact, it's probably been a few years since I have updated the Ocelot (it is used primarily to control my home theater lighting). It's installed in a different room. Ocelot, for those that have not heard of it, it a controller that can input/output IR and X10. It's software allows for very complex programing. For example, If time is > 1900 set variable A to 1. If dvd pause button and A = 1 then send X10 D5 ON and set variable B to 1. On a PCS dimmer, D5 ON causes front and rear lights to dim up to 40% at a present ramp rate. When DVD play is pressed and variable B = 1 then send D5 OFF which tells the PCS dimmer to lower front and rear lights to 0% at a preset ramp rate. Set variable B to 0. Or something along those lines.

I have read the people have good luck with the USB to serial found at Radio Shack. I might give that a try.

[eric dominguez]

That seemed like way to much work I went to the local electronic store a bought a relay.
I plugged the snow machine directly to a 110v outlet with a timer.

The rigger remote I bi-passes the on/off switch with a relay and I hooked the relay power to my lor.

Super Easy

If anybody gets stuck i'll send you a picture