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Can Anybody ID this SPT plug?


jim6918

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I found about a dozen of these plugs mixed in with 80 SPT2 plugs I bought from a well-known vendor. Male plugs only so far. I have corresponded with the vendor and he said that I couldn't have gotten from him, and has as much as said that I had to have done the soldering myself. The vendor said that he talked to his manufacturers rep and they said that they couldn't have come from them either. The only other plugs I have bought (ever) were white SPT2's or some green SPT1's to go along with some SPT1 C9 stinger i got a month or so ago.

Can anybody explain the placement of the resistor?


Attached files 185882=10542-SPT2 Plug.JPG

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I would be curious if maybe someone gave you a few plugs. Maybe in with some lights. Looks like it could be an attempt to provide a load resistor to be used with LED lights. To help the LED lights fade properly.

That would be my guess.

Chuck

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cmoore60 wrote:

I would be curious if maybe someone gave you a few plugs. Maybe in with some lights. Looks like it could be an attempt to provide a load resistor to be used with LED lights. To help the LED lights fade properly.

That would be my guess.

Chuck

No. I have only purchased SPT wire and plugs this year since it's my first year animating lights and music.
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I would guess someone bought them, modified them, they didn't work for them, returned them to the people you bought them from, they re-packaged them (without looking at them) and resold them to you...

Would you be able to remove them?

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jimswinder wrote:

I would guess someone bought them, modified them, they didn't work for them, returned them to the people you bought them from, they re-packaged them (without looking at them) and resold them to you...

Would you be able to remove them?


Doesn't look like it. Even if I could get a pair of snips in that slot to cut out the resistor, I think the prongs are jacked up and probably wouldn't properly pierce the insulation of the SPT wire. No big deal just a few bucks down the drain; a tiny fraction of what I spent this year. Glad I write the checks to the credit cqrd companies. More curious about the purpose than trying to recoup the $$$.

Somebody over on the PC forum called it a snubber.
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If you do a search for snubber here or on PC, you'll find some additional info. Many people recommend using an incandescent lamp C7, C9 etc. This is a work around to not use a load that is potentially too bright for an LED display.

Daryl B.

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I'll 2nd Cmoore60's comment about a load resistor to help the fade and in some cases the total turn off of the LEDs. I have several multi strings that the green is not totally turning off. I'll more than likely will need to put a pull down / load resistor on to help turn off these greens.

As for removeal, do you not own a soldering iron? If you are careful you could melt the solder and remove one leg of the resistor at a time. But I noted that you said that this is your first year. Are you doing LEDs? If so, those might come in handy.

Would you be so good and tell me the colors on that resistor? From the picture, read right to left. Has to be the band closes to the edge first to translate the value. But better yet, if you know how to translate, what is the value?

Thanks

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-klb- wrote:

33 ohms on 120 V seems like it would draw 3.6 amps by itself, or 436 watts. I'm guessing that is not the goal.


:) klb... funny guy! Love the comment. Yup, that resistor will pop like a fire cracker when you turn it on... not to mention you are probably going to blow a fuse on the LOR... and that is if you are lucky.

Daryl, I think you meant to say 33 K Ohm. A 1/2 Watt 33K will do the trick. A 1 Watt resistor would run cooler but is unnecessarily too big and won't fit into most small SPT plugs or clam shells.
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Of course I have been following this thread pretty closely since I am the one who started it. I am using only C9 LED's (that are rated as being dimmable) on custom cut stringers. Can I assume (there goes that word again) that I do not need to modify any of the alligator plugs on my LED stringers? I have already tested the LED's and they fade to my satisfaction.

I'll say it again, I HATE LED's.

Next year I am increasing my house service to 5 KW and buying 20 controllers.



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jim6918 wrote:

Of course I have been following this thread pretty closely since I am the one who started it. I am using only C9 LED's (that are rated as being dimmable) on custom cut stringers. Can I assume (there goes that word again) that I do not need to modify any of the alligator plugs on my LED stringers? I have already tested the LED's and they fade to my satisfaction.

I'll say it again, I HATE LED's.

Next year I am increasing my house service to 5 KW and buying 20 controllers.

If they are fading to your satisfaction, there is no need for anything like this. But I would probably hold on to them in case you find some other LEDs that don't fade to your satisfaction in the future.
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Richard Hamilton wrote:

-klb- wrote:
33 ohms on 120 V seems like it would draw 3.6 amps by itself, or 436 watts. I'm guessing that is not the goal.


:D klb... funny guy! Love the comment. Yup, that resistor will pop like a fire cracker when you turn it on... not to mention you are probably going to blow a fuse on the LOR... and that is if you are lucky.

Daryl, I think you meant to say 33 K Ohm. A 1/2 Watt 33K will do the trick. A 1 Watt resistor would run cooler but is unnecessarily too big and won't fit into most small SPT plugs or clam shells.


As I said in my post "if memory serves me correctly" and I now stand (actually sitting) corrected, thanks Richard. Only trying to help and I was pretty sure someone would correct any mistakes I make, either here or by pm.



Cheers
DB
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