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They're are alive!! They're ALIVE!


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Well, what should have only taken two weeks became compounded by the desire to get the boat back into the water before summer is completely gone. I finally sat down to a 1/2 finished 5th board last week. Plugged them all in afterwards and whalla... First they all blinked then started up LOR software and they stopped blinking! Whahoooooo.

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Congrats on getting all the boards put together. One request, can you re-size this photo...It is double my screen size. Makes it really hard to see your work when I must slide the photo from side to side. Thanks

Attached files .jpeg"]55246=3267-tn_DSC01576[1].jpeg

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Wow, that the most detail picture of a LOR board that I've ever seen! I can almost read the labels on the IC's. :}

Congrats on completing them. You did a great job. I can't wait to see what you do with them.

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LAUGHING .... WOW .. Nice Pictures *LAUGHING*

I know what it feels like to get that much work done, it is a work load all right and I finished mine at about 4:00 AM one morning a while back and I couldn't tell anybody as no one was up.

Except for my cat and I scared her out of one of her lives when I jump up after the test and literally danced around my work room.

I must admit though she is the most apprieciative of my fans, she likes to see the lights flash on and off, she especailly likes chase sequences. But now that I think about maybe she just likes hanging out for the 1:00 AM snacks of sardines we have.

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Ok, now I am worried. I see the that one of my pieces is different from yours. The capacitor in my kit had some markings down the side, but nothing to indicate that one side was positive or negative. I took it in to Radio Shack and was told that the markings indicated the positive side, but looking at yours, mine are backwards from them. I haven't put power to mine yet, but you have and yours seem to work.



Dan, a little help here, which way is correct?

Chris

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Chris,

If there are any markings on the CAP, they are most likely representing the negative side. Negative goes UP. Positive goes DOWN. Page 17.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Luke

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cghargis wrote:

Ok, now I am worried. I see the that one of my pieces is different from yours. The capacitor in my kit had some markings down the side, but nothing to indicate that one side was positive or negative. I took it in to Radio Shack and was told that the markings indicated the positive side, but looking at yours, mine are backwards from them. I haven't put power to mine yet, but you have and yours seem to work.

Chris,

The strip on the capacitor is NEGATIVE... The folks at RS were mistaken. The pictures above are correct.
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llbarnes wrote:

LOL, you know it use to be (many many years ago) that the guys at Radio Shack new everything and were extremely reliable.




Key words here being "used to be".
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OK, I have turned the capicitor around now. I guess I will bring my boards inhere and compare them to the picture before I power them up. That is the only thing I had a problem with, so they should be good to go now. Need to connect them with the computer and run the hardware test to see what happens. Thanks so much for posting your pictures and saving my boards from the individual who informed me wrong..

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Yikes, this is scary that people are comparing their work to mine. lol.. I would still ulitmatly check your work with the detailed pictures that Dan has provided. Also, double check and then check again all of your soldering points. Look closely for sure. Make sure none of them have bridged over either. It's hard to do this unless you have a magnifying glass, so spend about 5 minutes "just looking" on each board.

Lastly, before you connect this thing to your PC, plug them in and just makes sure the lights are all blinking. Again, wait a few minutes with them plugged in. Watch them and check for any electrical smells. Last thing we want here is a zapped computer. Once you are sure they are all functioning, then plug it into the computer, crank up the LOR software and watch the lights go solid. Then and only then are you allowed to prance around the room like an idiot yelling Whahoooo. I actually did it!

Well, that's what I did at least. Dan may look at this post and think "what a freak". Actually a lot of you that know a whole heck of a lot more than me about electronics may do the same. lol.. I am ok with this... :-)

Later and good luck!

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OK, I hooked up some power cords, and got flashing lights.. All three had flashing lights. Then I brought it into the house and connected it to the computer and ran the hardware utility and I still have a flashing light. The hardware is not finding the board. ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG.



Update, attached the second board and I got the light to go solid (think the cat5 cable is bad) but I still can't get the hardware to recognize the board.

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Are your boards the version with the address selector switches? If they have the selector switches set each board to it's own address. If the board do not have the selector switches then there HAS to be a jumper installed on the top 2 pins on the header on the upper right portion of the board.

In the hardware utility. If you have the selector switches then you should first click on the refresh button in the upper center portion of the screen. This will go out and poll all the addresses in the block. Note: to speed this process up, select a lower number in the maximum units section on the upper right side of the screen.

If your board does not have the selector switches I am assuming that you have to connect one at a time and use the section of the hardware utility on the right side to set the unit ID.

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There is more to it than that. They have the dials for setting the ID. They stop blinking when connected, but only one of them has been found by the refresh button so far. I am working with Dan in another thread (DIY kit help) to see about fixing this issue.

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