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DC-MP3


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Has anyone done any testing with this? What are your thoughts? I am considering getting one of these, but would like input from anyone who already has one.

Thanks in advance!

~K

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I used one of these units at a remote display site last season with ZERO problems. It was activated each night by a simple timer, ran for 6 hours and shut down. Music was transmitted via a Ramsey FM100B. We than 80 channels for a 16 minute show. I swapped the SD card a couple of time to change the voice overs during the season. I would highly recommend the DC-MP3 if you desire is a stand-a-lone trouble free show.

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Hi,

I'm playing with my DC-MP3 at the moment. Trying out various configurations of my new L-O-R "toys". I have to say I am impressed with the device. Very simple to use and runs my "mock-ups" flawlessly. I have loaded a combination of animation and musical sequences, using the supplied USB SD card interface and it just sits there and "gets on with the job"...great! I particularly like the idea of being able to run without a PC and the attendant cabling that would involve. With the Easy Light Linkers in service as well life should be a doddle; all I have to do now is a whole load of serious sequencing :shock:

Enjoy.

Martin

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Bill/Martin,

Thanks for the input! I have an off-site lighting to do, and I'm not thrilled about leaving a laptop behind. So does it work as soon as power is applied? I gather from the documentation that scheduling is not yet available, but may be in the release of LOR2.

~K

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Kaeleb wrote:

So does it work as soon as power is applied? I gather from the documentation that scheduling is not yet available, but may be in the release of LOR2.
Yes, apply 120 volts and off it goes and continues as long as power is constant.
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Bill Foley wrote:

Yes, apply 120 volts and off it goes and continues as long as power is constant.

G'day Bill, I presume you mean 12VDC to the DC-MP3, not 120V. Or do you mean apply power to a LOR Controller and the DC-MP3 will be powered through the RS485 lead?

If it is being powered separately could someone please advise what size power brick is required to drive the DC-MP3, eg: 12VDC @ 1A and tolerance, eg: Voltage must be less than 14V (for example).

Dan, may I suggest that the manual include these specs, as it only indicates that a 12V brick may be used.

Regards,

davidt (anxiously awaiting the arrival of his DC-MP3)
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davidt wrote:

If it is being powered separately could someone please advise what size power brick is required to drive the DC-MP3, eg: 12VDC @ 1A and tolerance, eg: Voltage must be less than 14V (for example).

David,

I'm sure Dan will correct me if I'm wrong here. Looking at the DC-MP3, it has a bridge rectifier and 5V regulator on board, so my view is that 9/12AC nominal into the power jack (with "comm pwr" jumper removed) would do the trick. In earlier threads / posts Dan has mentioned a 300mA supply should be used and I feel as long as the off-load voltage of the "brick" is not too great (14V sounds good) you should be OK. The rectifier appears to be 200V 1.5A so no problem there, but the 5V reg. although a 1A device (I think), is only heatsinked with a PCB land and so will not dissipate too much power.

Hope this is of some help.

Martin
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Thanks Martin, much appreciated.

You surprised me that it appears to be AC rather than DC, but I'll check that carefully before applying power, unless the bridge is there just for reverse polarity protection (says he cautiously saying this without having seen the unit). The picture in the manual and the promo blurb indicates it is a DC connection.

Cheers,

davidt

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davidt wrote:

Thanks Martin, much appreciated.

You surprised me that it appears to be AC rather than DC, but I'll check that carefully before applying power, unless the bridge is there just for reverse polarity protection (says he cautiously saying this without having seen the unit). The picture in the manual and the promo blurb indicates it is a DC connection.
It will work with AC or DC (any polarity)... 9 to 12 volts will work fine.
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LightORama wrote:

It will work with AC or DC (any polarity)... 9 to 12 volts will work fine.

Thanks Dan, it is great to see a manufacturer include this in their design. I bet it will save a lot of angst / returns from people who would otherwise say "Whoops", or similar words, when the smoke came out.

Cheers,

davidt
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Tried mine tonight. They ran over an hour and worked fine. I'm using the cat 5 cable as my power for now. Tomorrow I will be getting a power brick.

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