reitan_family Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 To begin, thanks to Randy(SCL) for donating the C9 sockets to me for this test box. Last year to test my LOR boxes we had just 16 strings laying on the table. I wanted something that would be a little neater looking. Well it took several trys to figure out how to mount the sockets, but I think it looks pretty good. The cords are 20 inches long and I used a two part bumper epoxy (no other epoxy would hold) to hold the sockets in place. I painted the box on the inside with plastic paint from HD. I did paint the lid on the outside once the epoxy was hard. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale J Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 nice job looks good, i have wanted to make something similar for a while, i have several old c9 strings that i don't use any more so i have plenty of sockets, and know i have a use for all thoughts computer cords i have to bad the females ends don't work for plugs thanks for the idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightEnthusiast Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Pretty Cool Do you have the cords marked so you know which is which channel, or am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reitan_family Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 Yes, the vampire plugs are marked 1 thru 16. I hope to make a label for each one so they can be seen easier. The lights are set up left to right, top to bottom. I did have fun making this, but it was an issue making sure the C9 sockets stayed in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toymakr000 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I'm doing the same thing only mine lights are in a straight line. I'm also putting spade connectors so I can check "PC" type boards before they are mounted in their enclosures...It's much easier checking and fixing boards before the heat sinks are installed!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reitan_family Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 You are correct about the spade connectors. I remember talking to Lowell about that. I might make some adaptors that would be female outlet to female spade. Thanks for the idea.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 toymakr000 wrote: I'm doing the same thing only mine lights are in a straight line. I'm also putting spade connectors so I can check "PC" type boards before they are mounted in their enclosures...It's much easier checking and fixing boards before the heat sinks are installed!!!But you have to say this about his box toymakr000. That having it in a 4x4 array it is easier to figure out what channel is not working right. While with yours you have to start counting from the left to find out which is not working. Also I would think that a long bar does not store as well as his box. Not knocking what you have. I just find his box more to my likings. Though your spade lug terminals will be more to my likings than his vamp plugs. But again if he is always going to get controllers with the pigtail inline recepticles, then for him that will work out better. But if doing a mixture, then I would have put female spades on the wires leading to the lamps. And then make a short length wire with male spades on one end and plug vamps on the other end to make an adapter for those occations.Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cenote Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 Great idea using c-9's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reitan_family Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 Well, toymakr000 was correct about the spade connectors being used to test the board before it is installed in a enclosure, so I solved that problem, what do you think? Even the cords are marked 1-16 . Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBontempo Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I built this last summer when I started buying the PC kits and use it all the time. It's very similar to others that I have seen. All parts were found at the local Radio Shack except for the labels, which I think I picked up at Lowes.I use the insulated alligator clips to connect to the spade lugs to test out the channels prior to installing the massive heat sinks also for the reasons stated above. Just the other day it helped me realize that I forgot to solder one of the pins of an opto-isolator.Steve Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toymakr000 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Max,I am doing my test strip inline for storage reasons:)I have what I call Command Central in my basement with my show computer and dual monitor setup. The monitors are on a shelf above the worktable. My test strip will mount right under it covering the length of the shelf. I'm going to have 9' harness so that I can test my heavy boxes on the floor. I usually test the boards once soldered right on the table so that will make hookup very easy. Another idea I had was to use a multiconductor cable instead of zip cord to keep the bundle small and lightweight. Since there will only be a 7 watt bulb on each I won't need a large conductor for current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Weiland Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I agree ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reitan_family Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 This is the test box finished and in use ....Can't figure out the link issue. Please stand by..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schristi69 Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 SBontempo wrote: I built this last summer when I started buying the PC kits and use it all the time. It's very similar to others that I have seen. All parts were found at the local Radio Shack except for the labels, which I think I picked up at Lowes.I use the insulated alligator clips to connect to the spade lugs to test out the channels prior to installing the massive heat sinks also for the reasons stated above. Just the other day it helped me realize that I forgot to solder one of the pins of an opto-isolator.SteveDo you happen to have part numbers or comparable item at mouser? What size box are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBontempo Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 I believe the box is 8x6x3 like this one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062285#The lights I used were kept in stock at my local radio shack store and came in packs of 2 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102793&clickid=prod_csI'm sure Mouser has comparable and probably cheaper parts, but I don't know what the part numbers would be. Electronic Goldmine is another good place for finding parts like this as well.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schristi69 Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Thanks. those are the lights I was looking at and they are actually cheaper in the 2 pack from RS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanward Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Is it safe for me to assume that those neon bulbs ramp, twinkle, shimmer just as well as a C9 bulb (for testing purposes)?SBontempo wrote: I believe the box is 8x6x3 like this one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062285#The lights I used were kept in stock at my local radio shack store and came in packs of 2 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102793&clickid=prod_csI'm sure Mouser has comparable and probably cheaper parts, but I don't know what the part numbers would be. Electronic Goldmine is another good place for finding parts like this as well.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I actually use C7 sockets that have the aluminum ears(?) on them, you squeeze them to fit into the hole and then they pop back out to hold the light in place. It just makes it easier to replace a bad socket if the need arises.I just drill a hole big enough for the socket to fit through and the tangs on the ears hold it in place. They are also easy to replace because they just snap on an existing cord, which I also buy different lengths of for my test fixture for my controller, which I also use to see how the lights react to the sequences I program as well.I need to actually build a test fixture using LEDS, mainly because LEDs do not react the same as the incandescent bulbs. This way I can test to see what would work best under certain sequences I'm working on. Currently have to use LED strings that I cut down to 25 LEDs per string to run the LED tests. But looking into making a single RGB test box if I can locate some RGB or RGBW type LEDS that each color is independantly controlled. But I don't think anyone has made any yet or if they have, I haven't seen them and they would probably at this time be outside my price range.I get my sockets and different length of cord at Michael's Craft stores. But I foget what I paid for them, but they weren't all that expensive.I'd have posted a photo, but no way to upload one here that I've found, just link to one somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBontempo Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 It should shimmer just as well. I only used it for on/off situations but I think I ramped it after I first built it just to see.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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