sjmiller Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I have ordered my controllers from LOR, it's now time to start my light load planning.I have notes written down about a watt meter that some use to measure the load of a given light set, and that someone put together a spreadsheet where the information can be entered to calculate channel & controller load.I would appreciate the links!Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan C Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 This spreadsheet was referenced a while ago:http://www.quartzhillchristmas.com/resources/Light+Controller+Calculator+MASTER+25+vC2.2.xlsYou will need to set up what you have in the way of lights on the "light types" sheet, complete with lamp ratings etc, then list what you have connected to what channel on the Controller sheets. You can add multiple sets of lights on each channel, and you can list them in any order you like.Controller 1 has some entries already set up as an example, so you can see how it works.Regards,Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmiller Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thanks Alan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iresq Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 For measuring current draw, the kill-a-watt is widely used and can be had for under $20 shipped. These are widely available.http://www.supermediastore.com/kilwateldet-bulk-package.html?WT.mc_id=090209email_18751_EL-006-0428&utm_source=email&utm_medium=campaign&utm_term=EL-006-0428&utm_campaign=090209%20ACFreeGift4U&emc=el&m=643929&l=35&v=58b940d744 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smjosephrn Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 I love my Kill-a-Watt. It's an invaluable tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmonkman Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I have been looking for one of these, but the ones at Lowes or Home Depot are the ones that you simply clamp over the wire and it reads the amperage.I noticed this one has a female plug on it. So how would you test the end of a cord that has a female end on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smjosephrn Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I generally plug the Kill-a-watt into my extension cord then plug the male end of my load into the female opening in the Kill-a-watt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmonkman Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 So it has a male plug on the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smjosephrn Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 yep Male on back female on front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin McQuarters Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 2nd vote for the Kill-A-Watt!!.Got mine here, works great for the non electric types like me.http://www.smarthome.com/_/ProductResults.aspx?Ntt=kill-a-watt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-klb- Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 nmonkman wrote: I have been looking for one of these, but the ones at Lowes or Home Depot are the ones that you simply clamp over the wire and it reads the amperage.I noticed this one has a female plug on it. So how would you test the end of a cord that has a female end on it?Note that with the clamp on meters, you have to clip onto the hot or neutral separate from the other.. If you just clamp onto an extension cord you get a reading of +current + (- current), which should equal 0...Usually I use a clamp meter in combination with a 10 turn adapter, and just remember to divide the resulting reading by 10.. This gives a little more precision to the reading.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 I'm sure you have read a lot of the boards so this might not be news to you. Part of your power plans should involve taking a photo of your house and start mapping out the layout of your lights so you can figure out how many extension cords you'll need and how many light strings can run end to end. It's funny (or not so funny at the time) how many snags come up after you actually start putting up the lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smjosephrn Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 amen to that! It is the great hidden cost of our hobby. I've spent nearly as much on extension cords has I have lights! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 that excact issue happened to me this past season. I was asked by the borough I live in to move the display to the rear of the house due to traffic issues, I didn't argue and moved it to the back yard. The good thing is that since we share a property line with a school the school agreed to allow the gate to be opened during the season... I had all the parking I needed and there were no traffic issues at all. The downfall is I needed to buy another 65 estension cords at the last minute. So yes I agree any planning you make something will come up, and most likely you will find yourself needing more cords Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmiller Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 I have a scale drawing of my lot and house in a Visio drawing, I will add my lighting and power distribution to the diagram. Once done I will be able to estimate the number and length of extension cords required.My controllers are scheduled to be delivered this Friday:dude: I have also registered for the 2009 Calif. Christmas Lights Workshop.I am glad I made the decision in December to go with LOR for 2009, here we are in March - and I started my 4th update to song sequences. I started at 8 channels, then to 16, then to 32 - bought 48....I really see that it will take me another 5 or 6 months to have things ready for the 2009 Christmas season! I'll enjoy every minute of it!Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmiller Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 Now that I’m fully immersed in “Project Christmas 2009”:- First controller built and tested (two to go)- Five song sequences programmed I need to get to the implementation planning phase, and have a few newbie questions that will be stuff that most of you have already figured out. I have three 16 channel controllers, and plan on having about 10,000 lights this year. I downloaded the Light & Controller calculator from QuartzHillChristmas.com (thanks Alan C, great job Rick) and from what it tells me I’ll be using about 21 amps. Is it really as easy as going into the LOR sequence editor and moving channels to different controllers to balance the current (amp) load? Do I need to worry about introducing timing differences between controllers? I’ve noticed over the years that some replacement bulbs burn bright or burn out when plugged into certain strings, while others are dim. I don’t think I can count on the .25 watt/bulb (mini’s) – should I use a kill-a-watt meter to measure the current draw of each string for load planning? I plan on fabricating some mini-trees, 2 channels each and 100 lights per channel. They will be 3 foot tall by two foot at the base and I plan on spacing the light rings by 6 inches. Is it enough lights, is six inch spacing correct, does the two foot by three foot sound about right (looks good). ThanksSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmonkman Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 sjmiller wrote: Is it really as easy as going into the LOR sequence editor and moving channels to different controllers to balance the current (amp) load? Do I need to worry about introducing timing differences between controllers? Yes, pretty much that is all that it takes and there should not be any timing differences between controllers. My mega trees are 12 channels of clear and 12 channels of red/blue. There is no gaps or glitches in the sequence going from one controller to another.I’ve noticed over the years that some replacement bulbs burn bright or burn out when plugged into certain strings, while others are dim. I don’t think I can count on the .25 watt/bulb (mini’s) – should I use a kill-a-watt meter to measure the current draw of each string for load planning? There are different voltage bulbs. When that happens you usually have the wrong type in there. I organize my bulbs not only by color, but by brand and/or by item.I plan on fabricating some mini-trees, 2 channels each and 100 lights per channel. They will be 3 foot tall by two foot at the base and I plan on spacing the light rings by 6 inches. Is it enough lights, is six inch spacing correct, does the two foot by three foot sound about right (looks good). I would get some graph paper and scale out 3' high with a 2' base. I think you will find that they will look a little awkward. I use tomato cages and they are about 3' high with a 1' base. Looks a little more like a tree. When you say you are using 2 channels and 100 lights each that tells me that you are going to have 2 colors or multiple effects. I don't think 100 per channel will look very good on that size tree. Mine have 500 per channel and most people go with 300-500 on mini trees. ThanksSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug petschke Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 steve I made my trees by turning tomato cages upside down too. it works great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friskybri Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Yes it does. Just finished 8 mini trees. I even took them outside and put them in the yard last night. with two arches and it already started getting a crowd wondering what I was doing. kid's stopped and watched as I ran some sequences. I went 200 per color and it looked good. Might go to 300 per but will wait till everything is up this November Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGabriel Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Saw some tomato or plant cages a Lowes that are 54 inches instead of the normal 36 inches now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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