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1602W vs CTB16PC


rjnitto
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I'm anticipating going the LOR route for the 2009 season and I'm sure these won't be my last questions.

What is the difference between the LOR1602W Computerized Lighting Controller for $329.95 and the CTB16PC (ready to go version) for $249.95 besides the obvious $80? Do you get something extra with the 1602W or is there a difference in specs that I'm not seeing? If I select the CTB16PC kit (assemble it/no soldering), does it have the same function as the 1602W?

I can see the difference in work required for the various CTB16PC kits unsoldered/soldered and the ready-to-go. Thanks for the great forum.

Richard

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Functionally the controllers will do the same thing. The PC version being in a plastic case is rated at ONLY 30Amps (15 per side). The 1602W can be modified with 20 amp input cables and plugs to handle 40 Amps total (20 amps per side). The 1602W you set the address via dial switches, the PC version is set using the hardware utility.

These are a few differences.

Chuck

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The 1602W only includes software if you buy it as a starter pack:

http://store.lightorama.com/ba16chpa.html

The 1602W also has the ability to run an animation sequence all by itself... Not a real common application, and if you decide you need to do something like that in the future, you can plug a mini director in to the PC series, and get effectively the same capability...

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-klb- wrote:

The 1602W only includes software if you buy it as a starter pack:

http://store.lightorama.com/ba16chpa.html

The 1602W also has the ability to run an animation sequence all by itself... Not a real common application, and if you decide you need to do something like that in the future, you can plug a mini director in to the PC series, and get effectively the same capability...

opps my bad
thanks for catching it for me


Jeff
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The CTB16PC that I have came with 15A fuses.



Jeff 1S.A.H.D. wrote:

Well I think the CTB16PC dose not include the software, adapter and cable as the
LOR1602W does. Also one has a metal case ( LOR1602W) and one is a plastic enclosure
don't know if the CTB16PC has 15 amp fuses but I know the LOR1602W does.

good luck

Jeff



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The W is UL rated which is a must for commercial installation.

Both controllers can be upped to 20 amp.

Both do the exact same thing (except the PC can't run stand a lone animation).

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What a great response! I should have been able to see those differences myself since they are all in printed material, but some of them were not so obvious. It's easy to gloss over something that apparently was not important to me.

The matrix (thanks, Chuck) really spells everything out.

Unit address switches, ability to stand alone, metal case (and with it the ability to go to 40 amp), commercial rating, + $80.

I now see you could have 40 amp capability, but I didn't see where you can modify the order to do that. Is that just an input power cord change or is there a change on the circuit board itself (other than fuses)? Does anyone do 40 amp on the PC or is that really a no-no due to the plastic case?

I intend to go with the no-solder kits, and I wanted to see what I would be missing. Thanks again to everyone.

Richard

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Richard, you cannot get the showtime unit in the 40 amp capacity as 'technically' this would require different supply cables to maintain it's UL approval. The process is the same for both PC and showtime; heavy up the supply lines and change the fuses.

There is some concern that the plastic housing cannot shed enough heat operating at 40 amps. This is probably more of a concern if you are constantly switching in the upper amperage's. It's really about your display/sequences. There are very few instances in any of my sequences were all channels are on for more than a second or two. Here is a great utility that runs your sequences to estimate power usage.

http://www.t2lights.com/christmas/lorutility.html

Jeff,

The PC version does not have a power button. Personally, I leave mine on all the time. There is a thought that leaving them on will help keep them a little warm, driving off condensation.

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I too had a very difficult time in selecting my controller. I found that matrix table to help me pick. I really was leaning towards the PC version because I wanted to build it myself, soldering is so much fun.

I don't think a lot of people would use 20A per side anyways, because you would need two separate breakers for each controller. I think most people could get by wit the 15A per side.

The rotary switches are handy to have, but not offered on the PC version. Just have to use the hardware utility to set unit IDs.

Stan

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I have 9 1602Ws and I would highly recommend them!

From a purely superficial stand point, the 1602W, when visible looks very ominous, and dare I even say Bada$$!

LOL! You are welcome for this purely lame and pointless response!

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stanward wrote:

I don't think a lot of people would use 20A per side anyways, because you would need two separate breakers for each controller.  I think most people could get by wit the 15A per side.


If the combined usage of both sides is greater than 15 amps (really, even 13 to keep a safe buffer) then you need them on separate circuits anyway. It's not like anyone is using a single 30 amp circuit.
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Even if I wanted to up my LOR controllers to 40 amp it would be point less. In fact 30 amps at this time is over kill for me, 15 amps is all I need in a controller, so if I wanted I could just run 1 power cord and bridge from the right side to the left side.

That is the advantage of LEDs, just think 1,400 lights in 1 channel is only something like 0.80 amps....so 13 amps can push 22,400 LEDs. With the 6 controllers I plan to have for Christmas 2009 I can run 134,400 LEDs......of course I am only going to run 17,000 for sure this coming Christmas ( 20,000) if all goes well.

I can run with 15 amps for a long time.

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That is more on the lines of what I was thinking when I posted earlier. Unless you are running a lot of C9 incandescent, you may or may not need 20A per side, or 15A per side. I am no where near the crazy lights most of the people on this board have. Last Christmas, I had about 6500 lights total, spread across 16 channels, majority incandescent minis, no LEDs.



lightzilla wrote:

Even if I wanted to up my LOR controllers to 40 amp it would be point less. In fact 30 amps at this time is over kill for me, 15 amps is all I need in a controller, so if I wanted I could just run 1 power cord and bridge from the right side to the left side.

That is the advantage of LEDs, just think 1,400 lights in 1 channel is only something like 0.80 amps....so 13 amps can push 22,400 LEDs. With the 6 controllers I plan to have for Christmas 2009 I can run 134,400 LEDs......of course I am only going to run 17,000 for sure this coming Christmas ( 20,000) if all goes well.

I can run with 15 amps for a long time.
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stanward wrote:

That is more on the lines of what I was thinking when I posted earlier. Unless you are running a lot of C9 incandescent, you may or may not need 20A per side, or 15A per side. I am no where near the crazy lights most of the people on this board have. Last Christmas, I had about 6500 lights total, spread across 16 channels, majority incandescent minis, no LEDs.


Well I had 12,000 LEDs spread across 48 channels of AL controllers....(used all 48), I plan on using all 96 or 112 LOR channels for 2009 for only 17,000 LEDs. 6 controllers is a must. The sequences are made out to that many.

Truth is I plan to stop at 25,000 lights....and that is enough lights for 1 guy in cold weather to put up.

Anyhow your 6,500 with 16 channels sounds better than my 12,000 spread out over 48 channels.
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lightzilla wrote:


Anyhow your 6,500 with 16 channels sounds better than my 12,000 spread out over 48 channels.


That will all change (insert evil laugh here)

I have a lot more lights and plan more channels, no where near as many as you plan tho.

Our cold weather here in Hawaii is in the high 50s. To us Hawaii people, that is FREEZING!

Stan
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Two weeks ago we had -34C (-28F), last week we hit + 10C (50F) and we were walking around without a coat on. This week we went down to -30C ( -25F)

Nice to here you are adding lights and controllers. My plans call for 6 or 7 controllers, but my pocket book says 4 is in reach but 6 is possible. As for light 25,000 in a small village of 800 people including the near by farms is a big display indeed. I am setting a limit in the number of lights.....25,000 is it.

If I get brave enough, I could buy those do it yourself kits and make my own enclosure, but I am not that brave yet. So those LOR PC controllers for $205.00 is what a number of people buy (me included).

Here is a truth......Planet Christmas took me to places I never dreamed of ( like a Ferris Wheel)......now that I came back to reality.....at times I wish I never made it....way to cold for people with children.

The Ferris Wheel was part of my interactive display.....the people got to push 4 buttons which did different things.......and 1 button made the wheel move....except the cold kept people in there cars.

No well no was of power there.

So no more stuff like that.

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Us Hawaii people just can't tolerate the cold. I can't imagine mid to low 50s. That is just too cold for me.

Wow, seems like your ferris wheel is such an awesome thing. Do you have videos of it?

Stan



lightzilla wrote:

Two weeks ago we had -34C (-28F), last week we hit + 10C (50F) and we were walking around without a coat on. This week we went down to -30C ( -25F)

Nice to here you are adding lights and controllers. My plans call for 6 or 7 controllers, but my pocket book says 4 is in reach but 6 is possible. As for light 25,000 in a small village of 800 people including the near by farms is a big display indeed. I am setting a limit in the number of lights.....25,000 is it.

If I get brave enough, I could buy those do it yourself kits and make my own enclosure, but I am not that brave yet. So those LOR PC controllers for $205.00 is what a number of people buy (me included).

Here is a truth......Planet Christmas took me to places I never dreamed of ( like a Ferris Wheel)......now that I came back to reality.....at times I wish I never made it....way to cold for people with children.

The Ferris Wheel was part of my interactive display.....the people got to push 4 buttons which did different things.......and 1 button made the wheel move....except the cold kept people in there cars.

No well no was of power there.

So no more stuff like that.


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stanward wrote:

Us Hawaii people just can't tolerate the cold. I can't imagine mid to low 50s. That is just too cold for me.

Wow, seems like your ferris wheel is such an awesome thing. Do you have videos of it?

Stan



Pictures yes, video to dark to see it. My house & "Wizards in Winter"

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=kLUc0MBHff4




Attached files 171122=9812-056.JPG
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