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simple Ac/DC circuit needed


Dr_Aplet

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OK ill start with what i have then what i need.  I have a prop that i bought from our local hardware store.  Its a little tree/ bush with LEDs wrapped in the branches.  This prop comes with a 24vdc power adapter.  You see them on costco deer and such. I use these in my halloween and christmas shows but they do not dim, its on or off.   If a product already exists i'm all for it.  I am trying to build a simple circuit that when you dim AC lights this device creates a DC output that follows from 24v-0vdc.  maybe that is cheap wall power supply that does what i want and i can just get one of those.  I'm working on pictures since this forum does not handle pics well.  Does anyone have a source for a solution.  I will also post a schematic that i was working on.

Circuit diagram

Prop example

Edited by Dr_Aplet
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do you have a CMB24?

I was thinking you could series a 12VDC (isolated from line) wall wort with a ports +12 to that device (that makes 24V) and connect the -  of the tree to one of R,G or B

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I do have a CMB24. This is a not a RGB, just white.  However one channel could be used to control 3 of those lights.  its something to think about. I was thinking I could look for a transformer that would dim when the AC is dimmed.

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Greetings

i think the cmb24 is the way to go. The board is rated all the way to 30V. Get a good meanwell 24V power supply and dim those props.

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1 hour ago, Dr_Aplet said:

I do have a CMB24. This is a not a RGB, just white.  However one channel could be used to control 3 of those lights.  its something to think about. I was thinking I could look for a transformer that would dim when the AC is dimmed.

You ungroup a Port and treat it as 3 separate channels. I have a number of props that are monochrome.  Candy cane propeller. 6 channels (of WW strips). Skeleton Hands, I stuffed with  white mini- lights cut into 12V segments (How many depends on what the string started with for 120V). And while the CMB will run at up to 30V, the whole bank is 30V, which is why I came up with the 12V boost trick (not actually tried).

The problem with a AC 120->16VAC (remember, 1.414 multiplier ), rectified and filtered is the circuit is INDUCTIVE, and might do some back EMF damage  if you chop it just right 

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8 hours ago, TheDucks said:

You ungroup a Port and treat it as 3 separate channels. I have a number of props that are monochrome.  Candy cane propeller. 6 channels (of WW strips). Skeleton Hands, I stuffed with  white mini- lights cut into 12V segments (How many depends on what the string started with for 120V). And while the CMB will run at up to 30V, the whole bank is 30V, which is why I came up with the 12V boost trick (not actually tried).

The problem with a AC 120->16VAC (remember, 1.414 multiplier ), rectified and filtered is the circuit is INDUCTIVE, and might do some back EMF damage  if you chop it just right 

I have 4 floods on it currently and was planning to put 4 more on the CMB.  So that would mean building another CMB controller and that is not cost effective.  I will have to play with different transformers to see if any dim.  I know they are designed to deliver stable voltage particularly now with switching/ solid state power supplies this is getting harder to find. 

I do not have formal electronics training but lots of years of trying to learn from others.  I really do need to take a class or two.  being inductive would explain why on my bread board i could not get the single LED to go out.  My thought was once i put a significant load on it it would kill the stray voltage.  I would like to to buy or design something i could just retrofit some of what i have but it has to be cheap.  I have seen 24v dimmer drivers but they are like $25 each and that does not make sense. 

 

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4 minutes ago, Dr_Aplet said:

I have 4 floods on it currently and was planning to put 4 more on the CMB.  So that would mean building another CMB controller and that is not cost effective.  I will have to play with different transformers to see if any dim.  I know they are designed to deliver stable voltage particularly now with switching/ solid state power supplies this is getting harder to find. 

Do you need independent control of all 8 floods? LOR has a Y cable and a Port can easily drive 2 (10W is under 1 Amp) Floods. I had  a Second 'Wash' flood on the same port because the wall was to tall for the grond mounted one alone.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tl4f4VFxZNh83TQw9XV6n3B6sI2zw9xb/view?usp=drive_link

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3 hours ago, TheDucks said:

Do you need independent control of all 8 floods? LOR has a Y cable and a Port can easily drive 2 (10W is under 1 Amp) Floods. I had  a Second 'Wash' flood on the same port because the wall was to tall for the ground mounted one alone.

I would like to eventually use all 8 floods independently because i like the movement you can get with it.  I will keep an eye out for another CMB and maybe double stack them.  currently I using 40 watts on it which is not much and can do more.  

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