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Pixel Flicker


MNLights

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I have 4 zones running my roof line from a LOR Pixie 8 and my main roof zone that has 111 pixels after a few minutes starts to flicker and eventually turns off. When that same zone is connected to another controller box (Trim Light) it runs just fine so I assume power injection is not the issue. If the Pixie 8 is turned off for a minute I can run the zone again for a few more minutes before it starts flickering again. What could be the issue?  Is there a setting in the LOR program that needs to be adjusted?  Could the port have an issue that I should use another port. I do have the light count set to 111. Thanks for any help.   

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7 minutes ago, MNLights said:

I have 4 zones running my roof line from a LOR Pixie 8 and my main roof zone that has 111 pixels after a few minutes starts to flicker and eventually turns off. When that same zone is connected to another controller box (Trim Light) it runs just fine so I assume power injection is not the issue. If the Pixie 8 is turned off for a minute I can run the zone again for a few more minutes before it starts flickering again. What could be the issue?  Is there a setting in the LOR program that needs to be adjusted?  Could the port have an issue that I should use another port. I do have the light count set to 111. Thanks for any help.   

I had a similar issue, and I had to add an F-AMP/NULL PIXEL between my light strings and the controller.  Are you using extender cables to get to the lights?  I use extender cables and I had to add an F-AMP/NULL PIXEL at the end of the extender cable, then to the light string.  If multiple extender cables are used, you need an F-AMP every 25 feet.

Just know these fixed issues I was having with flickering, and sometimes effects not working properly(fades, shimmers).

I also operate my RGB lights at 30%, which also helps.  Running a lot of RGB Lights at 100% can also cause flickering and sometimes other issues, including lag times.

Hope this might help.

I get my F-AMP/Null Pixels from HolidayCoro and if using LOR RGB strings, you'll need adapter cables to use them.  As the F-AMPS use XConnect 3 wire(HC EZPLUG-3) connectors.  Each F-Amp will require 2 adapter cables, one from controller to X-Connect, then another cable that goes from X-Connect to LOR Light String Connector. All available at HC.

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Is the Pixie at the end of the network? It should be terminated. It may just be noise that finally locks up the controller

OR

The PSU is shutting down due to overload.  Have you run the numbers on the total string current draw?

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7 hours ago, Orville said:

I had a similar issue, and I had to add an F-AMP/NULL PIXEL between my light strings and the controller.  Are you using extender cables to get to the lights?  I use extender cables and I had to add an F-AMP/NULL PIXEL at the end of the extender cable, then to the light string.  If multiple extender cables are used, you need an F-AMP every 25 feet.

Just know these fixed issues I was having with flickering, and sometimes effects not working properly(fades, shimmers).

I also operate my RGB lights at 30%, which also helps.  Running a lot of RGB Lights at 100% can also cause flickering and sometimes other issues, including lag times.

Hope this might help.

I get my F-AMP/Null Pixels from HolidayCoro and if using LOR RGB strings, you'll need adapter cables to use them.  As the F-AMPS use XConnect 3 wire(HC EZPLUG-3) connectors.  Each F-Amp will require 2 adapter cables, one from controller to X-Connect, then another cable that goes from X-Connect to LOR Light String Connector. All available at HC.

Thanks for this. I did add 1 null pixel to each string of lights to help send that data but it did not help. I need to look into what a  F-Amp is and give that a try. Thanks

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8 minutes ago, MNLights said:

Thanks for this. I did add 1 null pixel to each string of lights to help send that data but it did not help. I need to look into what a  F-Amp is and give that a try. Thanks

An F-Amp is a Special NULL PIXEL,the Amp part of it keeps the voltage along the pixel string so that all pixels on the string see the same voltage.

  So if the 1st bulb is 12V, the last bulb on the string is 12V.   It's not quite power injection, but sometimes an F-AMP can be used in place of power injection in quite a few instances.(At least that's how I understand it).

I was trying to find a way to keep my voltage levels equal among all bulbs on a string without having to run extra wiring, cut my strings and add power injection and extra power extension cords for adapters.  Ugh!  Too much work.

  So during my searching I found the F-AMPS/NULL PIXELS, wasn't 100% sure they were what I needed.   So I bought 6 to start with, they worked out better than I expected for my needs.

  Now I have around 20+ of them throughout my display.

   They worked great for me, and quite a few of my pixies have ports of 150 RGB Smart bulbs, but those props are broken down into 3 50-count RGB Smart bulbs, and I have an F-Amp between each 50 bulb string, starting at the controller, F-Amp, extender cable, F-Amp to first 50 bulb string, F-Amp to 2nd string, F-Amp to 3rd string. Total of 4 F-Amps used.  Each successive F-Amp keeps the voltage equal on all strings from beginning to end.

   I do have 100 bulb strings and I have F-Amps between them and the controller, or an extender cable to F-Amp to string from the controller.

  Some 150 bulb ports also are broken down into a 100 count string and a 50 count string, there would also be an F-AMP at the start of the 100 bulb string and an F-AMP at the end between the 100 bulb and 50 bulb string.

  Again, depending on whether an extender cable is used would determine the number of F-Amps required.

  The most F-AMPS I have used is on 2 ports, that would require 5 F-Amps per port(10 F-Amps total) due to multiple extender cables and if needed between prop light strings.

Example of multiple F-Amps(FA) using 1 25-foot extender cable:

Pixie->P1->FA-->25ft. XC->FA->SN1/50->FA->SN2/50->FA->SN3/50

LEGEND:P1 = Port 1, FA = F-AMP, XC = eXtender Cable, SN# = Snowflake 1, 2 and 3/50 count RGB bulb string per Snowflake.

If you use LOR Dangles on your Pixies and LOR RGB Strings then you'll need adapter cables to use the F-Amps as they come assembled with X-Connect/HC EZPLUG-3 Connectors.

  You'll need an LOR Controller Dangle to X-Connect, and an X-Connect to LOR Light string Connector.  You'll need a set for each F-Amp.  If you use Connect/HC EZPLUG-3 connectors on your Pixies and Light strings you won't need the adapters,unless your Pixies have X-Connect Dangles and use LOR lights, then you just need the X-Connect to LOR light connector adapter.

These resolved quite a few problems I was having,but depending how your display is set up and variants they may or may not work in all situations.

I can recommend them, however before investing in a lot of them purchase a few, test them in your setup and make sure they work before committing to a large purchase of them and any additional accessories, extender or adapter cables you might need.

Good luck.

 

Now I'm just waiting for Hurricane Milton to get here and leave.  Keeping my fingers crossed, staying it out in our single wide manufactured home due to we have 17 cats, and we're not going to leave them alone.  And we have no way to contain that many or take them to a shelter because they can't handle the number of cats we care for.   And we have no one that would take them in, even if we split them up.  And we don't drive, don't joen a vehicle, so our kitties are keeping us in place.

Will let folks know if we made it after things get back to normal, depending on if we lose power and for how long.  They're saying we may not have power for weeks or even months after Milton crosses Florida.   I sure hope it won't be that long without power.  Won't be putting up a display for Halloween or Christmas if that happens.

Later, and again, Good Luck.

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Thank you for all of this.  One thing that I do not understand is the lights on my house were professionally put up by a company called Trim Light and when using their controller box the main roof works just fine so all lights must be getting enough power.  It is only when I change over the wiring to the Pixie 8 that I have an issue which is why I though a setting may be off in the LOR program.  Thanks again and stay safe

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7 hours ago, TheDucks said:

Is the Pixie at the end of the network? It should be terminated. It may just be noise that finally locks up the controller

OR

The PSU is shutting down due to overload.  Have you run the numbers on the total string current draw?

I am only testing at this point but with only two controllers being used it is the last one.  I have not run the numbers and not sure how to do that.

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Lower the Intensity level of the Lights - It would appear that "Trim Lights" is using a Better/Stronger Power Supply...

Edited by Jimehc
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20 minutes ago, Jimehc said:

Lower the Intensity level of the Lights - It would appear that "Trim Lights" is using a Better/Stronger Power Supply...

Looking at both controller boxes they both use a Meanwell power supply but not sure if they are rated the same or not. I will give this a try. Thanks

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11 minutes ago, MNLights said:

Looking at both controller boxes they both use a Meanwell power supply but not sure if they are rated the same or not. I will give this a try. Thanks

Meanwell makes fine supplies ... OF ALL SIZES (Amps). From Wall wort to 2 people needed to lift. 😛

One thing I do is set the Supply Voltage to 12.6 (+5% nominal 12. You probably could go to 13.2 safely, but I split the tolerance difference to allow for light loads)

@Orville  As I see an F-Amp: It regenerates the DATA (squares it up). That is why it is best to place it mid span of long cables.

It does not have enough components to (buck-) boost the 12V

  

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1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

 😛

@Orville  As I see an F-Amp: It regenerates the DATA (squares it up). That is why it is best to place it mid span of long cables.

It does not have enough components to (buck-) boost the 12V

  

I stand corrected.  I bought these a while back and the original site I had read about them at is no longer around. 

 Sorry for the incorrect info on voltage instead of data.

Just did a new search and got the correct info.

My apologies, I took a webpage at face value, and apparently it was wrong, and someone either got it removed or the owner removed it.  Don't know which, just know it doesn't exist any longer, so deleted that erroroness bookmark, and bookmarked one with the correct info.

Thanks for letting me know that I had incorrect info, I honestly didn't know that what I had originally read and copied was wrong.

 

 

Edited by Orville
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