Questions about power injecting with WS2811 string lights

[mf64]

I’m just starting out in diy Christmas light shows. I usually use store bought lights but want to challenge myself. I found some WS2811 Rextin lights on Amazon they are 12v but they are wired for JST SM and are 3 pin. With 20AWG wire, 50 pixels per string, 60mA, 0.3w/LED. Im trying to join 10 together into one string, each string is 12ft. I have not been able to understand exactly how to physically attach power from a wall outlet to these lights. I’m not sure if there’s something else that I am missing. No matter how many YouTube vids I watch it’s not clear enough. I have found a compatible controller already the SP108E. I know there are many ways of power injecting. I just can’t find one that makes sense. I’m also a little confused with the light connectors. When power injecting do the connectors at the end of each string need to be modified in any way for injecting? I want to go to 20 strings eventually. I am also not sure if using a single power source is better or should I use multiple sources. It’s for wrapping around a tree over 100 ft tall. If anyone has any tips or information it would be greatly appreciated.

[dgrant]

I don't know the capability of the controller you've picked. However, power injection....you'll need to tap into the +/- wires and add a power input between the strips and whatever length between works for your setup. Example is I've made a 24x50 matrix of ws2811 strips. Three are connected together as one strip. Between the 2nd and 3d strip, I inject power. This insures that the strip's colors appear normal. Now adding that injection is just a matter of soldering on a pair of wires, insulating them of course and running to the power supply. In your case of running 100 ft, I doubt a wall-wart is going to cut it. I'd suggest a formal 12vdc power supply. Also, you'll need to have an enclosure for the controller and the power supply. Remember too, that the farther away from the power supply, distance causes line loss so your if your controller/supply are not close, you might consider a larger gauge wire. 22Awg wire over '100-'200 feet won't work very well. I'd suggest 16awg myself, but that's just me.

[TheDucks]

remember to break the + ONLY from the previous section. If one section loses power, you won't pop fuses or worse, burn traces.

GROUND (-) Must be continuous as well as Data

[Jimehc]

[k6ccc]

That drawing is almost universally wrong.  If you have 12 (or 5) volts and return on a red and black wire, ALMOST universally, the red is positive and the black is negative (also called ground, earth, or return).

On three wire conductors, the arrangement shown is very common, but NOT 100%.  You ALWAYS need to verify cable wiring.  If the wiring is color coded, there is no standard.  You MUST verify it.  I personally have at least 4 different color standards for various pixels that I have bought over the years of different types and from different vendors.  Anything I wire will be Red = positive power, Green = power return (also serves as data ground), & Blue = Data.

 

[weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com]

Depending on which connectors you bought, they do make some waterproof “T’s ”just for power injection. 

[TheDucks]

11 hours ago, weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com said:

Depending on which connectors you bought, they do make some waterproof “T’s ”just for power injection. 

HC had a tip page that instructed you to pull (damage) the specific  power pin to break the + line if you were using it for PI 👍

[gsmith37064]

https://www.holidaycoro.com/kb_results.asp?ID=173

https://www.holidaycoro.com/kb_results.asp?s=power+injection

https://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/1308.htm

[weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com]

18 hours ago, TheDucks said:

HC had a tip page that instructed you to pull (damage) the specific  power pin to break the + line if you were using it for PI 👍

Yes sir, I have a few of them them. 
they worked fine for me.

https://www.holidaycoro.com/Three-Conductor-Tap-MMF-EasyPlug3-xConnect-p/728.htm