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2 routers in cascade


Pioerpaolo

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Hello guys, stupid question, but I have to run the cables I prefer to be safe, can I put two routers in cascade? that is, in the first router various pixcom16, then restart with a network cable and get to another router for other pixcon16 ?? I think so, but in the uncertainty of making a boiata, I ask first, in Italy we say, "asking is lawful", that is, better to ask not to do the jobs twice hahaha, thanks guys

Edited by Pioerpaolo
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It sounds like you are looking for SWITCH functionality - not ROUTER functionality.  Yes, the typical home router has a switch, and usually with a little effort, you can defeat the router functionality.  However unless you somewhat know what you are doing, I agree with Phil and recommend that you get a dumb switch.  And no problem having several switches in the data path.  In fact, data for one of my E1.31 controllers passes through four switches between the show computer and the controller.

 

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Listen to Jim. A simple 10/100 switch will do (and not supply unneeded DHCP to the switch side)  (~ $50 US for a business class 5-port)

(and some I have run across would not even enable  until the WAN (DSL or Cable) was connected)

And technically a typical, modern,  home 'Router' has many functions that a data center router does not (in the same package),

DSL/Cable Modem, Router / Firewall, DHCP (and UI) server, Ethernet Switch, WiFi access point

💡 (avoid 10/100/1000 equipment. Some stuff out there does not play well with speed negotiations. Friend got a brand new Android based Credit Terminal which would not connect to his 10/100/1000 Comcast business router. I put a surplus 10/100 switch in between and instant happiness)

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Thanks guys, first of all, I wrote wrong, in my hurry I thought router and I wrote router but I meant the switch, I already knew that I could put them in cascade, I already have cascaded ones in my office, at home, but not convinced for as far as the LOR signal was concerned, I asked as a noob who I am. Thanks guys always ready to help.

 

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35 minutes ago, Pioerpaolo said:

Thanks guys, first of all, I wrote wrong, in my hurry I thought router and I wrote router but I meant the switch, I already knew that I could put them in cascade, I already have cascaded ones in my office, at home, but not convinced for as far as the LOR signal was concerned, I asked as a noob who I am. Thanks guys always ready to help.

 

As long as you are ONLY using it with E1.31 (Pixcon , Pixlink are the only LOR devices that use E1.31.)  If you need a Pixie, the Put the PixLink device between . It Makes LOR network out of E1.31)

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On 11/22/2021 at 8:25 AM, TheDucks said:

💡 (avoid 10/100/1000 equipment. Some stuff out there does not play well with speed negotiations. Friend got a brand new Android based Credit Terminal which would not connect to his 10/100/1000 Comcast business router. I put a surplus 10/100 switch in between and instant happiness)

I would suggest to get a decent gb switch.  D-Link and Netgear both autoswitch (and autoselect wiring) quite well, and are not that expensive (for a simple switch).  It also allows the PC (which probably has a gb link) to drive near wire speeds to the e1.31 devices (more of an advantage if there are multiple devices).

(FWIW, the Comcast business routers are really a PoS, and for my clients that require it I've always placed a managed switch between it and the rest of their network - not to mention a different wireless AP)

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FWIW, I use Netgear and MicroTik managed switches, but primarily for professional reasons (DO NOT get a managed switch unless you really know what that means; and even then I would question the intentions).

I recommend the D-link and Netgear because I have familiarity with the switching between different network speeds; others (like the TP-Link) are likely to be as good; and the worse case is that all line speeds go to the lowest line speed, and that is no worse than a dedicated 100mb switch.  If anyone thinks they will need more than 7 devices, it might be just as good to get a 16 port switch , as they are typically cheaper than 2 8 port switches (of like type, and can be found for under $50 - nothing in the typical cost of a display that is using e1.31).

When I first started into e1.31, I re-purposed a D-Link 5-port switch from a previous project, and it worked just fine.  I significantly upgraded in my new house (because it was practical), but still spent less than $100 on a switch for my display that I doubt I'll ever outgrow.

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9 minutes ago, randyf said:

(DO NOT get a managed switch unless you really know what that means; and even then I would question the intentions).

Every switch at my house is managed with multiple VLANs - but I know what I'm doing with them...

For most people however, I would agree with Randy.

 

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