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Replacement Fuses for LOR1602W


rwertz
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Just keep in mind if you go up to 20 amp fuses, you need to make sure you have the bigger heat sinks and metal enclosure to disperse the heat. Also if you plan on use over 15 amps per side and utilize the 20 amp per side fuses you will need to upgrade your pigtails that power the controller to 12 awg. The channel pigtails will be fine since they can only handle 8 amps per channel so the 16 awg pigtails are sufficient and do not need to be changed out.

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After hearing about Brian Mitchell’s smoking cords yesterday, there is no way I’d increase my fuse rating. I might even reduce my fuse rating to reduce the risk of fire. I’m not using anywhere near the capacity of the 1602.

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rwertz wrote:

After hearing about Brian Mitchell’s smoking cords yesterday, there is no way I’d increase my fuse rating. I might even reduce my fuse rating to reduce the risk of fire. I’m not using anywhere near the capacity of the 1602.


What caused it do you know? Did he upgrade the fuses without upgraded the power pigtails for the controller to handle the extra power?
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It sounds like it was an extension cord on one of the controller outputs that was running a string of strobes.
http://talk.planetchristmas.com/showthread.php?t=26940

It got me thinking that you could probably draw a fair amount of current on any channel if a very low resistance developed on the string of lights. Even though each channel of the controller is rated at 8 Amps. I suspect 8 Amps is a damage level. It might be possible to draw > 8 Amps for an extended period of time as long as the current does not exceed the fuse rating.

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The offending extension cord was only supplying 8 strobe lights. My guess is that the cord got pinched or stretched from the ice last season possibly during takedown. There was nothing visibly wrong with the cord or I wouldn't have used it, but it definitely had a short in it.
I am glad the fuse blew in the LOR box. It also popped the 20 amp breaker when I plugged them in directly for about 3 seconds. Direct shorts certainly heat those cords up fast.

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Brian, that does sound strange. I know it is a long shot, but was the cord ever coiled ether last year or this year that you know? From what you are saying, doesn't sound like you were overpowering anything. Doubt it was anything from this year. Maybe it was something from last year as you said. I know I have had cords overheat when they are coiled which is a no no but didn't think they were maxed when actually they were and it has tripped things.. That is very strange since those strobes don't pull much at all. Had to be a faulty cord that wasn't visible like you mentioned.

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  • 4 weeks later...

If the LED is lit on the board, at least half the channels should have power and be working. Did you verify it is lit since you noticed your lights are out?

Also, we’ve been getting a lot of rain on the east coast. If the LED is off, you may just you have a GFI outlet that needs reset.

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ok with nothing (computer wise) on and controllers powered up the light was blinking, when i opened HWU and refresh it found all controllers and i looked at the light it was solid. i turned all lights on on controller 1 (problem controller) through the HWU and nothing came on, thought about things and thought it was maybe the firmware update i did so i reverted from 4.03 back to 4.01 and it works now...dont know why it wouldnt with the updated software and firmware but i got it working...just have to wait till next season to use the new features cuz i just tried the twinkle fade and all it did was twinkle. plus i had upgraded firmware for all 5 controllers and only controller 1 had this problem, i reverted all of them back to previous version though just to avoid seeing nothing but unlit lights for the rest of the season


at least i dont have to go to home cheapo to get new fuses this morning

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