LaughsBrightly Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 I have a CTB16 Gen 1 last used for Halloween and it worked fine. Plugged it in today and the Hardware utility can see it on both ports, but I am not able to test any lights and the description when scanned is "01 - BootLoader-16d." I know this had been on Firmware 4.32 so I tried to flash it and it said "not correct firmware for controller." Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Reset the controller and assign the ID again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 I disconnected the power, set the unit ID switches to 0-0, and reapplied power. The status light blinked very fast. I removed power, changed the Unit ID switches back to where they were (01) and reapplied power. The red light is now doing a slow blink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 4 minutes ago, LaughsBrightly said: I disconnected the power, set the unit ID switches to 0-0, and reapplied power. The status light blinked very fast. I removed power, changed the Unit ID switches back to where they were (01) and reapplied power. The red light is now doing a slow blink. Slow blink is no data, plug in the cat5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 2 minutes ago, Mr. P said: Slow blink is no data, plug in the cat5. Data cable is plugged in and I can see all 6 controllers in the HU. This is the first controller in the chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 4 minutes ago, LaughsBrightly said: Data cable is plugged in and I can see all 6 controllers in the HU. This is the first controller in the chain. You said GEN 1 (AC controller)??? If down stream work, the the jax are good or the signal would not pass thru. That leaves the driver chip . or the RUN (reset) jumper is missing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) 6 minutes ago, TheDucks said: You said GEN 1 (AC controller)??? If down stream work, the the jax are good or the signal would not pass thru. LOR1600W. Two power cords. What is this run jumper? Edited November 17, 2021 by LaughsBrightly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 6 minutes ago, LaughsBrightly said: LOR1600W Rotary ID switches? Right? Exercise them (slowly turn them all the way up and down a few times), then set the ID. the switches might be a bit dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 7 minutes ago, TheDucks said: Rotary ID switches? Right? Exercise them (slowly turn them all the way up and down a few times), then set the ID. the switches might be a bit dirty. Rotate them slowly for 3 or 4 revolutions. Nada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) Was able to flash the LOR1602W to BLUE 4.32 (but wouldn't take 4.40 and I swear the board is green) but then after a refresh in the Hardware Utility it lost it again, flashed and lost it, flashed a 3rd time and even after 2 power cycles and several refreshes the HU sees the devices and all the props are lighting. So it is working (thanks for the help), but I'm thinking time to order the replacement as a 7 hour drive to work on stuff sucks. Edited November 17, 2021 by LaughsBrightly Updated to correct controller model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Okay, here was some of my confusion on the session tonight. 1600W = 15 amp single power cord. 1602W = 30 amp dual power cord. Both are metal enclosure boxes. For some reason on the session I was thinking that a 1600 was an eight channel controller. (No idea why!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 50 minutes ago, Don said: Okay, here was some of my confusion on the session tonight. 1600W = 15 amp single power cord. 1602W = 30 amp dual power cord. Both are metal enclosure boxes. For some reason on the session I was thinking that a 1600 was an eight channel controller. (No idea why!) So I got a bit confused myself. This show has an LOR1600W and a 1602W. The 1602W had the issue but like you said the only difference is the number of cords. Thanks again to all who helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 8 hours ago, LaughsBrightly said: I have a CTB16 Gen 1 last used for Halloween and it worked fine. Plugged it in today and the Hardware utility can see it on both ports, but I am not able to test any lights and the description when scanned is "01 - BootLoader-16d." I know this had been on Firmware 4.32 so I tried to flash it and it said "not correct firmware for controller." Ideas? Is this a V2 {Green Board}, if so, it should be FW 4.40, that's what my G1 V2 CTB16PC Controllers have in them. Not sure if the V1 {Blue Boards} can use the 4.40 FW, but if it's saying the FW is not correct, you may be using the incorrect FW file, or you upgraded to 4.40 at some point, and it won't let you go back to a previous version. I know when I tried that with one of mine, to go backward to FW 4.32, it told me the same thing, that the firmware was not correct, I reloaded FW 4.40 and everything was fine. So, perhaps you updated the FW and don't remember doing it? Just make sure you know which controller board version you have, it's marked on the PCB, I believe in the upper right-hand area of the PCB. Should be plainly visible. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughsBrightly Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 13 minutes ago, Orville said: Is this a V2 {Green Board}, if so, it should be FW 4.40, that's what my G1 V2 CTB16PC Controllers have in them. Not sure if the V1 {Blue Boards} can use the 4.40 FW, but if it's saying the FW is not correct, you may be using the incorrect FW file, or you upgraded to 4.40 at some point, and it won't let you go back to a previous version. I know when I tried that with one of mine, to go backward to FW 4.32, it told me the same thing, that the firmware was not correct, I reloaded FW 4.40 and everything was fine. So, perhaps you updated the FW and don't remember doing it? Just make sure you know which controller board version you have, it's marked on the PCB, I believe in the upper right-hand area of the PCB. Should be plainly visible. Good Luck. Blue board. Wouldn't take the 4.40 firmware, but ultimately the 4.32 did the trick. Had never updated firmware on this one and it had 4.32 when I got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) 8 minutes ago, LaughsBrightly said: Blue board. Wouldn't take the 4.40 firmware, but ultimately the 4.32 did the trick. Had never updated firmware on this one and it had 4.32 when I got it. I wasn't sure if the G1 V1 {Blue} boards could use FW 4.40 or not, I didn't think they could, but I sold my G1 V1 CTB16PC Controller years ago, so couldn't recall if it could be upgraded to 4.40. Sometimes you have to re-install the FW again, had to do that once or twice with my controllers. Somehow, or in someway, the FW can get corrupted, requiring a re-installation. I don't know how it happens, but on a couple of occasions I've had to do that with mine too. Glad you got it functional again! Edited November 17, 2021 by Orville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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