Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

48V DC White Floods not responding


DocBrown86

Recommended Posts

Hello! I seem to have landed myself in a problem that I can’t seem to solve.

In the past, I’ve used my white 50W Floods with the transformer that came with each, and simply attached a 12V relay inside so the transformer would remain powered, and the lamp would be able to turn on and off via DMX. 
This year I purchased a CMB16D (60V max) thinking I could remove the internal transformer and relay, and gain dimming capabilities. 
The factory transformer is putting out 48V DC, so I set the controller power supply to that voltage. The controller is seen by the PC and appears to be functioning properly.

However, I only got the light to turn on for about half a second, then it went off.

Am I missing something important? I use the CMB24 to power 24V RGB floods just fine with dimming and all. My standard 16 ch AC controllers can fade the white LED floods from Home Depot just fine. Why would these not be working?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Additional: My thought is maybe these particular LEDs won’t be dimmable, just my luck there, but I would think this controller should still function in “relay mode” to turn them off and on. 
I also seem to have fried this light. Went back to the factory transformer and now lights up so dim you can hardly tell it’s on. Also kind of blinks as the transformer voltage fluctuates. 😩

Edited by DocBrown86
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a batch of White 10W floods that will run on 12-24V DC. They are not dimmable

I suspect 48V ones also have a ballast built in. Why not open the back and see the PCB? If it has much besides a few resistors 🥴 (electronics present. On/Off only and NOT quickly)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

I have a batch of White 10W floods that will run on 12-24V DC. They are not dimmable

I suspect 48V ones also have a ballast built in. Why not open the back and see the PCB? If it has much besides a few resistors 🥴 (electronics present. On/Off only and NOT quickly)

The only component inside is the power supply switching it from 110V AC to 48V DC. Just a small rectangle. Goes direct from that to the light itself. 

Edited by DocBrown86
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...