Biff Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Only did my first light show last year. One 16 channel box. This year I added a pixel tree and another 16 channels. My question is: just buy more extension cords or is it more cost effective to make your own cords? Especially on smaller light displays. Thanks for the input… 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. P Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Make your own, vampire plugs and some SPT wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfuller8400 Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 15 minutes ago, Mr. P said: Make your own, vampire plugs and some SPT wire. I agree 1000% with Mr. P. I made that same mistake (of buying extension cords) when I first started. Since I've switched to SPT I've now got a ton of cords that I don't use anymore, take up a bunch of storage space, and are heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Yep. Make your own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMassey Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Just to be clear, you do need heavier cords for the supply to your controllers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Buy a heavy gauge (smaller #) cord to SUPPLY the controller MAKE your SPT cords for traditional, low wattage strings. Be sure to mark their length at the ends for the next show setup. I also use color cable (zip) ties as markers at both ends since the cords tend to be single color. 'Blue is not coming on'. <slap> in wrong port. You can find a assortment kit on Amazon. While you are there, get a zip tie tool ~$20 💡 Black last way longer in the sun than clear/white Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlogan Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 I actually marked the controller/port and string it goes to on both ends on all mine. And I snaked them together where possible. This allows me to grab a bundle of cables and lay them out in the general area they belong, and then connect all the ends. Keeps them bundled together across the lawn so there are fewer to trip over. Makes it easier to pick them up at the end of the season, too. For instance, instead of picking up 16 extension cords for my mega tree, I pick up two bundles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biff Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 Thanks everyone! Awesome 😁👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 There are many places in my display where the controller is mounted so close to the prop, that I can just plug it in without using an extension cord. For example, if you're building a 16-channel mega tree, put the controller in the middle of the tree and run 1 extension cord to the controller. Not only will you have less cords to route and trip over, you will probably end up saving money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durty Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Are there any concerns when it comes to length of SPT-1 extension cords? I have about a 50 foot run onto the roof and just wanted to see if that was going to be an issue. Weather isn't a problem with these cords either? Just seems to good to be true, I'm knocking out so many extension cords for a fraction of the price here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Unless you are drawing a large amount of power (more than the channel rating in the controller), the standard 18 AWG SPT-2 is fine. You would have to running large current AND going long distance (far farther than 50 feet) in order to run into a problem. 18AWG wire has a resistance of 6.385 ohms per 1000 feet, so it would be 0.6385 ohms for your 100 feet (50 out and 50 back). With 4 amps of load, that would be about a 2.5 volt drop across the wire which would result in just over 10 watts of power loss (becoming heat). Spread over 50 feet, you would hardly notice any warmth at all. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 6 minutes ago, Durty said: Are there any concerns when it comes to length of SPT-1 extension cords? I have about a 50 foot run onto the roof and just wanted to see if that was going to be an issue. Weather isn't a problem with these cords either? Just seems to good to be true, I'm knocking out so many extension cords for a fraction of the price here. Pay attention to Ohms Law 🙂 SPT is NOT the way to supply a AC controller. SPT is fine for any LED String at just about any distance. I*R drop is your enemy and get bad enough: Fire (typically you will exceed the TRIAC rating and blow it before getting that hot) OTOH If you are using older Incans, load can get high enough the really long runs cause dimness. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Jim did the math 👍 Rule of thumb: 5% drop is acceptable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 On 9/7/2021 at 9:43 AM, TheDucks said: Buy a heavy gauge (smaller #) cord to SUPPLY the controller MAKE your SPT cords for traditional, low wattage strings. Be sure to mark their length at the ends for the next show setup. I also use color cable (zip) ties as markers at both ends since the cords tend to be single color. 'Blue is not coming on'. <slap> in wrong port. You can find a assortment kit on Amazon. While you are there, get a zip tie tool ~$20 💡 Black last way longer in the sun than clear/white Depends on the controller, CTB16PC or those with heavy 3 prong grounded plugs, yes, I agree heavier gauge is needed, but you can get away with SPT and Vampire plugs on controllers like the older CCB100D, the newer CCII and the Pixie2D {LOR Singing Trees} controllers. Been using those types for years, just make sure you get the wider plug side{Female} and wider prong side{Male} on the same wire! Been using a few cords like this for years now with no issues on my Pixie2D and CCB100D, but anything that has a ground plug will always get the heavier gauge wire. I usually just spend the $$ on a commercial grade heavy-duty outdoor cord {usually Orange or Green} that has single and triple taps on the female end, since my CTB16PC units use the dual power cord method to allow for more amperage, and I cap the one exposed open female with a child-proof outlet protector cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durty Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 An issue I ran into running some extensions. I have lights on pillars in front of the house. To make it look cleaner, I wanted to run an extension in between strings that are on each pillar (and I want them on the same controller). So, I ran the extension but the vampire plugs (male side) does not fit into the walmart brand plug (female side). Didn't expect to run into that issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Durty said: but the vampire plugs (male side) does not fit into the walmart brand plug (female side). Yes, some cheap extension cords are not polarized so you can't plug a polarized plug into them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durty Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 2 minutes ago, k6ccc said: Yes, some cheap extension cords are not polarized so you can't plug a polarized plug into them. Turns out, it's actually the string of lights (Holiday Time - Walmart brand) that doesn't allow the extension cord in between the lights. Running from the controller is fine because the male side (on walmart lights) fits fine into the female vampire plug. But, trying to use an extension in between the two walmart lights is a no go. Looks like I'll have to get a small set of cheap lights to put in between (which kinda defeats the point of having a clean light set-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 6 minutes ago, Durty said: Looks like I'll have to get a small set of cheap lights to put in between (which kinda defeats the point of having a clean light set-up. A file or bench grinder will fix that problem very easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orville Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 18 hours ago, k6ccc said: Yes, some cheap extension cords are not polarized so you can't plug a polarized plug into them. I think he's talking about the female end on a light strand Jim. But like you stated a file or small grinder {like a moto-tool with a small grinding wheel}works wonders in fixing that problem! As most light strands do not use polarized plugs, at least none that I've encountered to date. So I've had to grind down quite a few male vampire plugs to use with light strands like that in the past, but I make sure I label them so NOT to use them with polarized items! Of course, I don't use those ground down extensions much anymore, since I've gone 95% RGB. Only have a few LED AC Strands that I might use a non-polarized x-cord with, but my Blow Molds all have Polarized Plugs on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince4xmas Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 I use extension cords for supplying power to ALL my AC controllers and vampire SPT1 cables from controller to prop. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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