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If you were designing landscape lighting using LOR


rmturner54

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Just now, k6ccc said:

I would avoid sprinkler wire simply because it is solid.  Harder to work with and easier to break.  Almost all of my dumb strips are using 4 conductor speaker cable from Monoprice.com

 

Good tip. IIRC they also have 'direct burial' rated wire that resists UV

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Good tips, I already know this. Thanks. I will be using direct burial for sure. Since I dont plan on taking down and putting up landscape lights like I would for my xmas show, I have no problem w/landscape wire.

And I do use 4 cond speaker wire in my show where its warranted.  BTW I am also an Elect/Tech so everything I do I take into account wire size, amps, volt drops etc.....

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16 hours ago, rmturner54 said:

What kind of wire did h use to interconnect the ligjts. I was thinking about sprinkler wire. I know its solid core, they r not gonna b moved

Sounds like others have already answered, but I use 16/4 direct burial speaker wire.  Just make sure it's not copper clad aluminum wire.  Used that by mistake and had to replace it after a short while. 

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5 hours ago, Little_b said:

Sounds like others have already answered, but I use 16/4 direct burial speaker wire.  Just make sure it's not copper clad aluminum wire.  Used that by mistake and had to replace it after a short while. 

That was my other choice. Thanks for input. I learned my lesson many years ago on copper clad aluminum wire

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is my update to the project. First I would like to say that Amazon is a wonderful thing. Returning items is soooo easy. I ordered  so many different types of landscape fixtures to see what would work, that it wasn't even funny. I had to find a fixture that would fit a sq RGB module and still have room to terminate wiring. So the first picture is what I came up with. They look a lot like the old style Malibu pathway fixtures, even down to stake and how the original wiring goes in. lgt5.thumb.jpg.f5b2757ca631d4d2eb768759bfe4944d.jpg

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Have you tried to see what that looks like in the dark?  My expectation is that with a single three LED pixel, it's going to be pretty dim.

 

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I did and it looks ok. Right now I have the intensity set at 50%. I'll tweak more when I get them all built.

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Doesn't it get really hot in Texas in the summer, like it does in Florida?  

When I was using hot glue, many times it melted in the heat from the sun.   Sure made a sticky ooey gooey mess that made any repair fairly impossible!   That's when I started using the Flex Seal Family of products.  Yes, some of them are a little messy, and you need to cover things with painters tape.

However, I haven't had further issues with modifications getting ruined in such a way I can't replace just the LED assembly and re-solder wires.  I, have to scrap the item and rebuild it over again, tossing everything because the hot glue was melting all over everything.

With flex seal liquid, I just slice the rubber, remove, peel the rubber out and re-coat the bottom of the light assembly {PC Board} after the wires are attached and in place.  Coat the top wire connections at the solder pad joints as well.   Gives a great weatherproof and waterproof seal.

So my days of using a hot glue gun and glue sticks are over and done with.

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16 hours ago, Orville said:

Doesn't it get really hot in Texas in the summer, like it does in Florida?  

When I was using hot glue, many times it melted in the heat from the sun.   Sure made a sticky ooey gooey mess that made any repair fairly impossible!   That's when I started using the Flex Seal Family of products.  Yes, some of them are a little messy, and you need to cover things with painters tape.

However, I haven't had further issues with modifications getting ruined in such a way I can't replace just the LED assembly and re-solder wires.  I, have to scrap the item and rebuild it over again, tossing everything because the hot glue was melting all over everything.

With flex seal liquid, I just slice the rubber, remove, peel the rubber out and re-coat the bottom of the light assembly {PC Board} after the wires are attached and in place.  Coat the top wire connections at the solder pad joints as well.   Gives a great weatherproof and waterproof seal.

So my days of using a hot glue gun and glue sticks are over and done with.

Thats good info to know. THis is my first project using hot glue. I will have to check out the flex seal products. Luckly I have just 1 light done.. Thanks for the info

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I agree that you need to be careful with hot glue if you are in a hot environment.  It will soften.  I'm in the Los Angeles area, and have used GE Silicon II sealant to "glue" RGB strip to brick.  Never had an issue with it softening in the hot sun.

 

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