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Bang - AJR (2020)


hasslerk
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Here is another video from our Christmas show this year.  The initial mouth sequence was supplied by BobO (Thank You!) and I modified it/added to it to meet the effects I was going for.  I received a lot of positive feedback from people about the song selection, and the 2020 closure at the end.  Hope you enjoy!  Videos for all my post-Christmas light show can be found via the links in my signature block below.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

Nice job! What’s the specs on your matrix hangin over your porch? It looks like a good size for me! And how did you hang it? 

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How was Mickey Mouse?

My matrix is new this year, and is made of 1/2" PVC, with 6 "T"s and 4 elbows, simply pressure fit together (no glue).  It measures 15" by 202" (or 1'3" x 16'10") outside dimensions.  It is divided into basically 4 equal sections.  The middle vertical and the one's to either side are simply for support of the horizontal pieces, but also add a little structural integrity.  I spread a black plastic "rabbit" fence from Home Depot over the entire assembly.  This fencing is easily cut to size with just plain scissors.  I tie wrapped that to the PVC pipes (which gives it more rigidity), and then attached my 150 light/50 node (each node is 3 lights) pixel strips to the PVC and/or the black fencing material using a zillion tie wraps.  My strips are on 2" centers with the top and bottom ones being centered over the horizontal PVC pipes.  The grid pattern of the fencing allowed for easy visual alignment of the remaining light strips; I made sure that when I cut it and attached it that everything was aligned grid wise.  Although very wobbly when being carried, it is very light weight and hangs perfectly with simple 1" plastic pipe "J" hooks (they are like $1 each from Home Depot).  I also have a set of these in the garage to hang it high up on the wall for storage.

When designing it, I originally thought I would cut all the zip ties holding the fencing, take it off, roll it up, and then disassemble the frame.  But after putting all the tie wraps on I decided that would be a stupid thing to do and just chose to hang it on the wall for storage.

If you have any questions, or would like some pictures just let me know.

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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

lol didn’t get to see Mickey.Disney didn’t have character meetings! Disney was fun last week though!

Trying to remember if I told you or how you knew I went to Disney world! Lol


so you built these out of 8 rows of ribbons? 

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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

Oh crap. Lol Kurt lol my bad lol

Edited by weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com
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Yup, in our recent email traffic.  Sorry to freak you out.  Yes 8 rows of pixel strips, which is 14" with 2" centers (the first is basically at zero).  Given the limited number of pixels in my setup, I had to play around with the font size and whether words would have to scroll or not.  "BANG" was easy to just flash up there.  Based on my settings, with a font size like 130 and bold, I could get roughly 9 or 10 characters without having to scroll.  My friend across town has a pixel strip matrix but each one of his lights is a pixel so he has a much higher density of pixels to work with, and he went with 9 strips.  I could not find these strips when I was looking so went with the generic 3 light/1 pixel ones.

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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

Awesome! And yeah. I had to look back at my emails. I thought your name looked familiar! I’m full of brain farts lol.

thanks man! 

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21 hours ago, hasslerk said:

 

When designing it, I originally thought I would cut all the zip ties holding the fencing, take it off, roll it up, and then disassemble the frame.  But after putting all the tie wraps on I decided that would be a stupid thing to do and just chose to hang it on the wall for storage.

If you have any questions, or would like some pictures just let me know.

I would really like to see a few pictures,  would be a perfect size to fill a gap I have.  The song was awesome!

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@bdwillie Thanks!  I will take some pics later today.  It currently is hanging on the wall in the garage so I will have to check to see what pictures I have from the show season for any setup photos.  But I should be able to show basic assembly.

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@bdwillie Pictures can be found at https://photos.app.goo.gl/rFoRsVo26CwhvkxQA (Google Photos folder).  You should be able to see the basic PVC frame, and some characteristics of the black fencing.  My notes say my 5 vertical PVC pieces were cut at 13", which when the "T"s and elbows are attached make it a 14" on center and 15" outside.  There is scribbling on my notes that say the horizontal pieces are 49.5" on center, with the actual PVC pieces being around 48.5", and when all added to the "T"s and elbows comes to around 202" (16' 10") outside overall.  My LED pixel strips were 16' 6", plus pigtails.  I made my matrix a little longer than the strips so as to have space to secure the pigtails to the assembly.  

The fencing I bought at Home Depot is: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BOEN-3-ft-x-25-ft-Plastic-Poultry-Hex-Garden-Fence-Netting-Black-PF-40003/303962630.  Make sure when cutting the fencing that it is square; this will make it easier to attach the LED strips.  Make sure when attaching the strips you align the pixels and not the pigtails; there is variation in manufacturing as to how far the first pixel is from the pigtail connection.  It may not seem like much but when lit your words/letters will appear to be rough/misshapen if not aligned.  I also made sure to only place a zip tie where there were the "cut here" marks so as to make sure I did not create any place where overheating could occur.  

There is a picture of a 1" "J" hook attached to my porch molding.  I used 4 of them roughly centered in each of the four quadrants of the assembly.  The assembly easily dropped into place, with the fencing being in front of the hook.  If there is a zip tie preventing this from occurring, just snip off that zip tie and reattach an inch or two away.  You do not want the "J" hook to block a pixel.  I was worried that the assembly may not hang vertically once hung on these; but it did hang vertically and was fine.  I was prepared to add more "T"s that could be used to add spacers/support to the back to keep it properly pushed out from the house, but these were not needed.  

I did not glue anything, and if one person carries the assembly it will wobble; two make it easier.  But with all the zip ties I don't think you have to fear that it will come apart.  

I used a Pixie8 for this matrix (one output per strip).  I now know I could have gotten away using a Pixie4 for this.  To convert mine I would have to remove every other strip, reverse it's direction so that I could connect 2 end-to-end, and re-zip tie it back on.  Right now just not worth it for me.

Being my first pixel matrix, I was very happy with how this worked out, operated and added to my show.  PVC is cheap, and I have enough fencing to make another one, although you can never have enough zip ties.  :)

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20 hours ago, hasslerk said:

I used a Pixie8 for this matrix (one output per strip).  I now know I could have gotten away using a Pixie4 for this.  To convert mine I would have to remove every other strip, reverse it's direction so that I could connect 2 end-to-end, and re-zip tie it back on.  Right now just not worth it for me.

SO, apparently, I've been misreading the specs all along! Just so I'm sure about this....

Right now, I have a Pixie 2 running my arches. I have one strip on each output (and split each strip into two arches of 25, for total of 4 arches). If I'm now understanding correctly, I could run BOTH strips (all four of the arches) off of ONE of the outputs on the Pixie 2 and free up the other? So since I have a similar situation running a second Pixe2 with two strings of 50 bulbs, I could free up one of the Pixie 2s (or at least one output on each)? 

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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

Yes you can do that. You can subsection every prop! 

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12 minutes ago, weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com said:

Yes you can do that. You can subsection every prop! 

Well. THAT opens up some possibilities for next year! Thanks for confirming. Once I get everything packed up properly and bring my show computer back inside, I'll do some re-sequencing and make channel config changes and give it a test. 

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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

Yeah, I broke down some of my house outline into sections. My columns are 3 node modules, 10 down and 10 up.... I set it up as a vertical matrix with 1 string and 1 bend on each column....

then broke them down into 5 sections for beats up and down.... the 4 lights on the bottom was 1 section. And so forth.....

just go to the prop to add ME rows. Select “custom” instead of None.

then just click the nodes on the right to select which nodes you want that ME row to control.

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Quote

I could run BOTH strips (all four of the arches) off of ONE of the outputs on the Pixie 2

The two strips would be 100 pixels - but there would also be a 6 Amp draw at 12volts on that Port when 4 Amps is the Max - so one strip of 50 pixels per port - unless you reduce the overall intensity

Edited by KYHI
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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

Yes. This is true..... just connect all of them like you want,.. turn on full white and adjust intensity until pink is not there....... good to go.... and NO PI will be needed

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8 hours ago, KYHI said:

The two strips would be 100 pixels - but there would also be a 6 Amp draw at 12volts on that Port when 4 Amps is the Max - so one strip of 50 pixels per port - unless you reduce the overall intensity

You really need to start testing your theories before spewing numbers.

Not all pixels are created equal. 

450 nodes below - NO PI - NO blown fuses at 100%

JR

 

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Theories are tested - The Specs are certain...

9x5=45

And I have yet to see or read any documentation from LOR regarding Tested Theories..

Also just because you can - does not mean you really should or that it is safe to do so.....

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weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com

If enough evidence accumulates to support a hypothesis, it moves to the next step — known as a theory — in the scientific method and becomes accepted as a valid explanation of a phenomenon. ... Theories may change, or the way that they are interpreted may change, but the facts themselves don't change........

the Fact is, you don’t need power injection..... JR posted evidence that proves it.

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24 minutes ago, KYHI said:

Theories are tested - The Specs are certain...

9x5=45

And I have yet to see or read any documentation from LOR regarding Tested Theories..

Also just because you can - does not mean you really should or that it is safe to do so.....

You have to remember that a golden rule of business is never over state your material.

MFGs would rather be cautious than make claims that would later be proven incorrect.

LOR actually made a lot of changes based on the testing of the pixie controllers that many of us did. They so not have to post our findings, the simply post them in their documentation , equipment and firmware updates.

The problem is when you and other post blanket statements that simply are not correct.

As I always have stated “the user should test because it depends on the situation”.

The fact remains and the proof is there, not all people need PI at 100+ nodes.

When someone sees a post that states otherwise they start searching “how to PI” which  oils lead them down an in needed path that can add elements to wiring that can create other problems.

Reading documents and manuals in no way makes anyone an expert at any subject.

If it did human beings would have never advanced. We would still be using sticks and stones to make markings on the ground or rocks.

No hard feelings I have always voiced my findings through trials and facts, not from manuals.

JR

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Actually LOR does not recommend PI... And I have seen the recommendation for 12v PI at 180 watt..

Also 12 volt has 5 times greater travel distance than 5 volt

Edited by KYHI
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14 minutes ago, KYHI said:

Actually LOR does not recommend PI... And I have seen the recommendation for 12v PI at 180 watt..

Also 12 volt has 5 times greater travel distance than 5 volt

Your comment was power injection required or needed. Was not voltage related. I have no testing of 5v pixels.

Most of us that have used pixels for a while will always say “test to find out” and I do not personally know anyone that has used PI and I help 100’s of people each year.

At the moment I have no 5v pixels so I do not comment on anything I have no on hands experience or knowledge of.  
 

There are reasons that most mfgs would not recommend pi. One of them being, it could cause injury or death if not properly done and I imagine they do not want to have to go to court concerning those problems.

safer than sorry

If you under power pixels you would need pi. 180 watts will run pixels but how many? I don’t have those number because I deal with 1-625 in my largest prop. 
 

All of my custom RGB singers , drummer and elf have 495-625.

All on one port and no PI. 
 

The difference is I refuse to use a 8 port or larger controller with 1 small psu and for the most part the controller is attached to the prop with no more than a 20’ extension.

That is factual user level over 4 years of running shows with pixels without any problems from the controllers and very few, actually only 2 nodes out of the thousands I have burnt out.

Last years hurricane caused the most damage and the first major repair.

JR

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We can thrash this around all year, but the fact is, that come November, if you haven't tested your props, you will be in for some surprises.

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