LOCKS?

[rgardner518]

Someone told me the LOR controllers come with actual locks on them with keys to prevent entry. Is this true? And if so..how you you get them rekeyed or replaced if you lose a key.

Edited November 15, 2020 by rgardner518

[LaughsBrightly]

My first three residential controllers did not come with locks - just the holes for a padlock. I bought a new residential controller in the summer sale and it came with an integrated lock. I think I remember a key  in the box, but didn't pay it much attention. I suspect the keys are all the same?

All my commercial controllers have a slot in the lid for a pull-out tab that you put a lock in.

 

[Kapkirk]

The new controllers have keys, when you loose the keys just call Light O Rama and they will send you some, just guess how I know that LOL.

 

I prefer the old cases over the keyed ones, much easier to get in and out of, there is a lock hole if you need them on the older ones. I really don't think the new ones with the key lock are very secure except for maybe an honest 10 year old. Any one else who want it or wants in can get in pretty easy.

[Kapkirk]

LaughsBrightly is correct, they are all keyed alike, do yourself a favor and hide one of the keys in a safe place you will remember, (my problem is I don't remember) where it is.

 

Keith

[rgardner518]

Interesting...I wonder why the lock upgrade (change)

[Orville]

Ugh!  I prefer to use MY OWN padlocks!   I buy them all keyed the same, so one key will open every single one of my padlocked controller boxes.{CTB16PC, Director and FM Transmitter}.  Can't padlock my RGB CCB100D Controllers. 

Integrated locks are not always the best route, and I would never want a controller box designed like that. 

I wish the RGB Controllers that come pre-built had the padlock hole and hinged lids, anyone with a Phillips head screwdriver can open one and mess with it's interior and cause damage or possibly even electrocute themselves.   I also would prefer a hinged lid with interior holes for mounting the box, I'm always afraid I'm going to over-tighten the screw and washer and crack or break the mounting ears off the top, having them on the bottom would have  been beneficial because anyone can also pull on them and snap the ears off if they are mounted near or on a piece of plywood, because you can pull the bottom away from where it's mounted, I almost accidentally broke off the ears of a box once because I was working on something and the cord went behind the box and pulled it outward at an angle, fortunately I caught it and didn't do any damage.  So screw holes for mounting the box from its interior to me would have been so much better than the top ears method.   That's just a few of the things I really do not like about the RGB ready to go controllers boxes.

[ebrown1972]

My padlocks are zipties. I have never locked one of my controller boxes and only use zipties to secure the lid. I'm not sure what a lock is going to prevent. The only reason I even ziptie my lids is due to fear that the wind could blow open the lid and allow water to get inside. I don't think a would be thief is going to mess with the inside of a controller or someone out to cause damage. In my mind people like that will just try to detroy or steal the whole thing.

[dibblejr]

I had many of the new controllers with the locks. They are all a generic type of enclosure lock, all keyed alike. 

Maybe I am missing something here but everyone complaining about a simple device that may have been included in a better deal all around. 

You are still not forced to use the provided lock, the enclosure still can be closed and zip ties used if need or in combination with the lock.

I am sure LOR and most people know that the locks do not actually prevent theft. Not even a home or car lock can do that but it can give the user/ owner peace of mind that the enclosure is secure "if they use the lock".

I have a huge enclosure that holds 2 commercial grade meanwell psu's, a pixie16 and a pixie8. If you all are complaining about a lock this would surly push you over the top. It had 16 security head screws that are used to secure the cover that also has the clip type fasteners. Those security head screws are recessed in and you have to purchase a special tool to get to them along with the correct security bit. I did not know all of that when I purchased the enclosure however as painful as they are to remove when needed I appreciate what the company included to help ensure moisture would stay at bay.

The LOR enclosure that have the lock system comes with 2 keys. Very easy to open. A lot easier than the old bolt style and I never read of any complaints about them. Even though if you unscrewed the wrong screw the locking bolt system would fall out. Not once did I read ":why is there a lock on an enclosure"

My keys are all on a ring and hang in the area that mu show computer sits. They are separated so if something happens to one bunch I have a backup bunch.

I wish that's all I had to worry about while setting up my show. I would def hate to see the complaints if they didn't come with some sort of lock. " Why don't the controller enclosures have some type of lock function"

The enclosures other companies put out some just have 2 large clips on them that if hit by a branch will come open, how do I know. The recent Halloween hurricane proved it.

JR

Edited November 16, 2020 by dibblejr

[dgrant]

I don't have any locks on any of my controllers. I do use zip ties to insure they stay closed in the wind as mentioned by eBrown. I think the intention or need for something to secure them is to insure people/children, do not stick their hands into the high voltage present.

[dibblejr]

4 hours ago, Orville said:

Ugh!  I prefer to use MY OWN padlocks!   I buy them all keyed the same, so one key will open every single one of my padlocked controller boxes.{CTB16PC, Director and FM Transmitter}.  Can't padlock my RGB CCB100D Controllers. 

Integrated locks are not always the best route, and I would never want a controller box designed like that. 

I wish the RGB Controllers that come pre-built had the padlock hole and hinged lids, anyone with a Phillips head screwdriver can open one and mess with it's interior and cause damage or possibly even electrocute themselves.   I also would prefer a hinged lid with interior holes for mounting the box, I'm always afraid I'm going to over-tighten the screw and washer and crack or break the mounting ears off the top, having them on the bottom would have  been beneficial because anyone can also pull on them and snap the ears off if they are mounted near or on a piece of plywood, because you can pull the bottom away from where it's mounted, I almost accidentally broke off the ears of a box once because I was working on something and the cord went behind the box and pulled it outward at an angle, fortunately I caught it and didn't do any damage.  So screw holes for mounting the box from its interior to me would have been so much better than the top ears method.   That's just a few of the things I really do not like about the RGB ready to go controllers boxes.

Thinking you are referring to the small enclosures/ controllers with the pixie2's. I do not use screw. Two zip ties are perfect for holding them in place. As far as the cover, for such a compact system why risk water getting in a hinged type door. I know its a pain to remove the 8 screws as well as how difficult it is to get the rubber grommet and cables out but they have a great seal.

One tip- if you depress the cat5 cable clips once and pry the grommet straight down from the bottom the cable(s) will slide straight down. then you just have to give one a little slack to remove from the hole.

Once you have them set up there is really no need to open the enclosure again unless you decide to place them farther away from the show source whether a computer or director and longer cable is required.

That is one of the reason I tell people to turn off the dip switches on the pixies. No reason to continuously open a box.

Since last year when HC started selling the remote data ports every controller I build gets one or 2. This way I do not have to open the enclosure to get to install / remove the cable and if the cable gets pulled, tripped on or whatever it will not damage the internal port. It would damage the adapter port which costs about $6. All of my old boxes will get one or two as time goes on. I am about half wat through that long process.  The adapters do not impede on the data transfer at all. They work like a charm.

JR

[dibblejr]

5 minutes ago, dgrant said:

I don't have any locks on any of my controllers. I do use zip ties to insure they stay closed in the wind as mentioned by eBrown. I think the intention or need for something to secure them is to insure people/children, do not stick their hands into the high voltage present.

Bingo on the safety aspect. and the zip ties for locks. The owners of the new boxes can use both. or none in any combination.

JR

[rgardner518]

6 hours ago, dibblejr said:

Thinking you are referring to the small enclosures/ controllers with the pixie2's. I do not use screw. Two zip ties are perfect for holding them in place. As far as the cover, for such a compact system why risk water getting in a hinged type door. I know its a pain to remove the 8 screws as well as how difficult it is to get the rubber grommet and cables out but they have a great seal.

One tip- if you depress the cat5 cable clips once and pry the grommet straight down from the bottom the cable(s) will slide straight down. then you just have to give one a little slack to remove from the hole.

Once you have them set up there is really no need to open the enclosure again unless you decide to place them farther away from the show source whether a computer or director and longer cable is required.

That is one of the reason I tell people to turn off the dip switches on the pixies. No reason to continuously open a box.

Since last year when HC started selling the remote data ports every controller I build gets one or 2. This way I do not have to open the enclosure to get to install / remove the cable and if the cable gets pulled, tripped on or whatever it will not damage the internal port. It would damage the adapter port which costs about $6. All of my old boxes will get one or two as time goes on. I am about half wat through that long process.  The adapters do not impede on the data transfer at all. They work like a charm.

JR

If you're talking about these things, then you are so right! All of my controllers have two of these on the bottoms this way I never have to open them. I've been using these before LOR started selling them...I like to think I'm one of the one's that started that movement to use them back 10 years ago when I started this hobby. Either way...it's definitely helped save the cat5 ports on several occasions.

[dibblejr]

1 hour ago, rgardner518 said:

If you're talking about these things, then you are so right! All of my controllers have two of these on the bottoms this way I never have to open them. I've been using these before LOR started selling them...I like to think I'm one of the one's that started that movement to use them back 10 years ago when I started this hobby. Either way...it's definitely helped save the cat5 ports on several occasions.

Yes, those and similar. I use both , the HS ones have a much smaller footprint to mount in a cg1500 or similar enclosure. I use both styles depending on the controller.

JR

[Orville]

On 11/16/2020 at 8:23 AM, dibblejr said:

Thinking you are referring to the small enclosures/ controllers with the pixie2's. I do not use screw. Two zip ties are perfect for holding them in place. As far as the cover, for such a compact system why risk water getting in a hinged type door. I know its a pain to remove the 8 screws as well as how difficult it is to get the rubber grommet and cables out but they have a great seal.

One tip- if you depress the cat5 cable clips once and pry the grommet straight down from the bottom the cable(s) will slide straight down. then you just have to give one a little slack to remove from the hole.

Once you have them set up there is really no need to open the enclosure again unless you decide to place them farther away from the show source whether a computer or director and longer cable is required.

That is one of the reason I tell people to turn off the dip switches on the pixies. No reason to continuously open a box.

Since last year when HC started selling the remote data ports every controller I build gets one or 2. This way I do not have to open the enclosure to get to install / remove the cable and if the cable gets pulled, tripped on or whatever it will not damage the internal port. It would damage the adapter port which costs about $6. All of my old boxes will get one or two as time goes on. I am about half wat through that long process.  The adapters do not impede on the data transfer at all. They work like a charm.

JR

CCB100D 5v Controllers and the LOR Singing Tree Controllers{Pixie2}.  I had forgotten about those other dangles that would allow the cat5 to be extended outside the controller box.  Guess I'm going to need to invest in some of those, but not this year. 

  Will have to remount my LOR Singing Tree Controllers this year, had them mounted on the back on their frame, but once they're hung, can't unscrew the lids to open them, won't be enough room.   And the reason I didn't invest in them, just about every cat5 cable I have is booted, when I went to buy my cat5, I couldn't even find a bootless option for the length I needed at the time.  Tried cutting the boots off a few, but that was a real pain and I could completely de-boot them. :(

And my V2 CTB16PC's have hinged lids, no water ever got inside them, not even in the hardest rain storm with high winds we get here at times.  Just makes it easier to access {at least for me!}.  And I prefer locks, #1, if screwed down/mounted from the interior, no one can open them and take them. #2. Padlocked, also keeps them more secure from theft or opening, unlike screw down covers which don't, and anyone with a screwdriver could open and get electrocuted if they started poking around inside.   Although I try to mount my RGB Controllers out of reach to help with that, but sometimes that's just not feasible or possible.

Good and bad points on both sides of this coin.

I just know what I like and prefer, essentially for theft prevention and safety over anything else.

 

 

[rgardner518]

2 hours ago, Orville said:

CCB100D 5v Controllers and the LOR Singing Tree Controllers{Pixie2}.  I had forgotten about those other dangles that would allow the cat5 to be extended outside the controller box.  Guess I'm going to need to invest in some of those, but not this year. 

  Will have to remount my LOR Singing Tree Controllers this year, had them mounted on the back on their frame, but once they're hung, can't unscrew the lids to open them, won't be enough room.   And the reason I didn't invest in them, just about every cat5 cable I have is booted, when I went to buy my cat5, I couldn't even find a bootless option for the length I needed at the time.  Tried cutting the boots off a few, but that was a real pain and I could completely de-boot them. :(

And my V2 CTB16PC's have hinged lids, no water ever got inside them, not even in the hardest rain storm with high winds we get here at times.  Just makes it easier to access {at least for me!}.  And I prefer locks, #1, if screwed down/mounted from the interior, no one can open them and take them. #2. Padlocked, also keeps them more secure from theft or opening, unlike screw down covers which don't, and anyone with a screwdriver could open and get electrocuted if they started poking around inside.   Although I try to mount my RGB Controllers out of reach to help with that, but sometimes that's just not feasible or possible.

Good and bad points on both sides of this coin.

I just know what I like and prefer, essentially for theft prevention and safety over anything else.

 

 

You use premade cat5 cables? Why? You can buy a roll of say 500' and make your own to the actual length you need for much cheaper. Plus they wouldnt have boots. OR even cut the boot ends off and put new ends on without boots. Both very easy things to do. If you do the math...I'd bet your paying almost double for your premade ones...compared to ones you make on your own.

You should look into it...

[k6ccc]

3 hours ago, rgardner518 said:

You use premade cat5 cables? Why? You can buy a roll of say 500' and make your own to the actual length you need for much cheaper.

Same here.  I stock 1,000 foot rolls of cat-5e in Blue (normal home LAN), Green (E1.31 LAN), Purple (LOR networking), and Yellow (assorted non-networking stuff), and Orange Cat-6 (VLAN trunks).  The only time I buy pre-made cables is for short runs of colors that I will only use in very small quantities - for example, Red is internet, so there are exactly four patch cables between the two internet modems and the managed switch in the house, and from the managed switch in the data cabinet to the two routers (total of about 20 feet).

 

[Orville]

On 11/18/2020 at 6:48 AM, rgardner518 said:

You use premade cat5 cables? Why? You can buy a roll of say 500' and make your own to the actual length you need for much cheaper. Plus they wouldnt have boots. OR even cut the boot ends off and put new ends on without boots. Both very easy things to do. If you do the math...I'd bet your paying almost double for your premade ones...compared to ones you make on your own.

You should look into it...

Tried it.  I can't do it.  I tried numerous times and I can never get the cat5 wiring into the connectors, so I gave up on it.   I destroyed more cables than I care to count.  Tried repairing some that the tabs broke off on the connectors, again, just can not do it   

I just don't have the vision or the ability.  I am legally blind, and what vision I do have is very difficult to see small things, so, again, pre-made is the only way I can go on cat5 cables.   Wish I could make my own, would sure help a lot.  But that's just not for me.

[ItsMeBobO]

On 11/18/2020 at 5:48 AM, rgardner518 said:

You use premade cat5 cables? Why? You can buy a roll of say 500' and make your own to the actual length you need for much cheaper. Plus they wouldnt have boots. OR even cut the boot ends off and put new ends on without boots. Both very easy things to do. If you do the math...I'd bet your paying almost double for your premade ones...compared to ones you make on your own.

You should look into it...

Premade Cat5 is already cheap.    My Geek factor is clearly lower than yours as I would never consider arranging the wires in that little jack.    

[Orville]

50 minutes ago, ItsMeBobO said:

Premade Cat5 is already cheap.    My Geek factor is clearly lower than yours as I would never consider arranging the wires in that little jack.    

If you ever tried it Bob, you'd hate it!   When I tried it, I could never hold the wires in the connector and crimp it, I had wires that didn't get crimped, fell out and ended up crimping and ruining an empty connector, had some wires get crimped in the connector and some dangling outside the connector.  

So after several hours of frustration trying to do it, I'd had enough and decided pre-made is the only way to go for me.

And like you, I don't feel the cost factor for pre-made is noticeable enough of a difference to attempt making my own.  At least with pre-made I know they'll work and not be a disaster in the making if I had tried to use the ones I attempted repairing or making.   Nor does using pre-made cat5 stress or frustrate me, unlike attempting the repair/make your own cat5 did. ROFL

 

[TheDucks]

Unpaid Plug (pun too) Platinum Tools

Has RJ45 plugs that the wires come out of holes on the contact end, where you can visually verify they are all there and the correct order BEFORE you crimp-cut

(their tool does both in 1 crunch, but a typical tool and a utility knife will suffice)