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First 3 channels of my CMB24 work great.....but


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First 3 channels of my CMB24 work great.....but the other 5 don't work at all. 

I have checked the power supply, 12.1vdc, I have same 12.1 on the + ouput to the lights. I have connected through the Hardware Utility and still cant get the other 5 channels 

to show anything at all. So it was working 3 days ago for sure. and now its started to rain here, so now would be the time to have to climb on the roof to see whats up. Im guessing that i have diag'd all i can from a hardware side and it has to be a bad connection or? anything im missing?

 

-Ken

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Please clear up a small bit of confusion. A CMB24 has 2 numbering systems: Channels and (RGB) Ports (3 channels per RGB Port).

There are 4 PORTS per Bank.  Port 5 starts the second fused bank (left side).

So is it Port 4 that will not respond or is it the Blue, channel 6?

If it is the Left side, check the Left NEGATIVE terminals at the bottom (you did say there was + 12 on the Port terminal, but you may have left the Negative meter lead on the same (good) place)

AND at the PSU End (or where ever it goes)

 

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1 hour ago, TheDucks said:

Please clear up a small bit of confusion. A CMB24 has 2 numbering systems: Channels and (RGB) Ports (3 channels per RGB Port).

There are 4 PORTS per Bank.  Port 5 starts the second fused bank (left side).

So is it Port 4 that will not respond or is it the Blue, channel 6?

If it is the Left side, check the Left NEGATIVE terminals at the bottom (you did say there was + 12 on the Port terminal, but you may have left the Negative meter lead on the same (good) place)

AND at the PSU End (or where ever it goes)

 

Ok, so its ports 4 and up, not channels. and I did leave the neg on the  PSU end. So i should run a white at 30% and then measure across the channels?

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18 minutes ago, KSlush said:

Ok, so its ports 4 and up, not channels. and I did leave the neg on the  PSU end. So i should run a white at 30% and then measure across the channels?

Port 4 shares power with 1,2,3 so the lead thing is not a potential false reading . It is still best to have the reference lead (the negative) at the boards terminal. This helps detect PSU > Board wire issues (and required if using 2 PSU's).

I think you need to do a smell test (sniff for smoked parts) and pull the board out and inspect for corrosion on both sides. That is the only thing that seems to fit.

<slap> Are you sure port 3 will do White? (I am thinking stuck low 8b2 bit in the logic )

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well this was a lesson in buying all your lights at the same time..... 

The first 3 ports were purchased seperatly from the next 3. and there was a wireing color change that may have been a mistake at the factory or maybe not.

but they changed the +12vdc lead color. I wired it just like the other ones. hence the issue of not lighting up. Thanks for the ideas and help. 

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Glad you got it.  for dumb RGB lights, the negative colors are almost universally Red, Green, and Blue.  However that common positive can be almost anything else - but Black or While are the most common.

Also note that you can buy dumb RGB lights with a common positive or a common negative.  We can not use the ones with a common negative.

 

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