Complete Newb needing help

[blueninja]

I am a complete newb at this so bear with me. I work at a church that is planning to do a small light show in the near future so I was tasked with purchasing equipment and what not.

We have the LOR 1602 controller with the Director, software, etc. I understand hooking lights up to the powered ends in the controller and connecting controller to Director, my struggle is with the lights themselves and how to correctly wire them to the controller.

I bought some ALITOVE DC 12V WS2811 12mm Diffused Digital RGB LED Pixel Light Individually Addressable Round LED Module lights from Amazon thinking it should be simple enough, but as I said I'm a complete newb. After receiving everything I'm at a loss of how to connect everything. The lights have what I discovered to be a 3 pin JST SM connector on each end of the strand with another 2 wires coming off each end as well with no connector on them, just ready for soldering. I assume I can connect them in sequence using the 3 pin connectors but how do I connect them to the controller we bought? Is there more equipment we need? Can I slap an SPT-1 end on the 2 wires and just plug in that way? Would I be able to address each pixel individually? How can I make these lights work with what we have or do I need more items?

Thanks for bearing with this uneducated newb!

[TheDucks]

2 minutes ago, blueninja said:

I am a complete newb at this so bear with me. I work at a church that is planning to do a small light show in the near future so I was tasked with purchasing equipment and what not.

We have the LOR 1602 controller with the Director, software, etc. I understand hooking lights up to the powered ends in the controller and connecting controller to Director, my struggle is with the lights themselves and how to correctly wire them to the controller.

I bought some ALITOVE DC 12V WS2811 12mm Diffused Digital RGB LED Pixel Light Individually Addressable Round LED Module lights from Amazon thinking it should be simple enough, but as I said I'm a complete newb. After receiving everything I'm at a loss of how to connect everything. The lights have what I discovered to be a 3 pin JST SM connector on each end of the strand with another 2 wires coming off each end as well with no connector on them, just ready for soldering. I assume I can connect them in sequence using the 3 pin connectors but how do I connect them to the controller we bought? Is there more equipment we need? Can I slap an SPT-1 end on the 2 wires and just plug in that way? Would I be able to address each pixel individually? How can I make these lights work with what we have or do I need more items?

Thanks for bearing with this uneducated newb!

100% incompatible with any AC controller :(   You have bought 12VDC SMART RGB nodes

You need a Pixie  (2,4,8,16 depends on how many strings you bought) (a Pixcon will do, but they are harder to configure)   You will also need a 12V (possibly a second one if using a Pixie16 with 100 nodes per port. do the math for all wight current draw)

[blueninja]

Would I even need the 1602 controller at all if I were to get a Pixie? If so, I may be more inclined to send the lights back and get dumb RGB's instead. I assume that would be the easier way to go to begin with. 

I appreciate any and all help. When trying to research this it was all quite overwhelming and I wish I had found this forum sooner.

[TheDucks]

Dumb needs a CMB24 (and a power supply) to be safe, an enclosure.

 

Your 1602 is great for STANDARD bulbs, strings that just plug into the wall. CAUTION: if there is anything other than a simple plug (stacking ones are OK) implies electronics. A bulb that does ANY effect is another NoNo.

the other requirement is Dimable   (if the 1602 is like the Gen 3 , you can set the circuit dimming curve to On/Off and MARK the outlet (I but a RED zip tie right there. AND use care you never plug those devices into a normal LOR port (On/Off will not hurt any 120V device)

[Orville]

10 hours ago, blueninja said:

I am a complete newb at this so bear with me. I work at a church that is planning to do a small light show in the near future so I was tasked with purchasing equipment and what not.

We have the LOR 1602 controller with the Director, software, etc. I understand hooking lights up to the powered ends in the controller and connecting controller to Director, my struggle is with the lights themselves and how to correctly wire them to the controller.

I bought some ALITOVE DC 12V WS2811 12mm Diffused Digital RGB LED Pixel Light Individually Addressable Round LED Module lights from Amazon thinking it should be simple enough, but as I said I'm a complete newb. After receiving everything I'm at a loss of how to connect everything. The lights have what I discovered to be a 3 pin JST SM connector on each end of the strand with another 2 wires coming off each end as well with no connector on them, just ready for soldering. I assume I can connect them in sequence using the 3 pin connectors but how do I connect them to the controller we bought? Is there more equipment we need? Can I slap an SPT-1 end on the 2 wires and just plug in that way? Would I be able to address each pixel individually? How can I make these lights work with what we have or do I need more items?

Thanks for bearing with this uneducated newb!

Like TheDucks said, you need a pixie {RGB} controller of some type.  The LOR1602 or CTB16PC controllers are strictly used with items like standard 120VAC incandescent bulb strands,  120VAC L.E.D. bulb strands or Blow Molds that use L.E.D. or incandescent 120VAC bulbs.  They are not designed for items that have their own built-in controller, use an adapter to power the item and sometimes even 120VAC motors can be an issue with the AC Controller types.  

Some of these items may work with an AC Controller, but only using FULL ON and OFF ONLY commands, no dimming, no fades, no shimmers and no twinkling.   Only way to know if something works like the adapter, motor {make sure it's 120VAC!} or light strand with built in controller {built in controller on a light strand must be able to be set to one setting and remembered so it works the same way each time it's powered.} is to do a plug it in a controller dangle {channel} and test to see if it will function.  Again, only FULL ON and OFF only or problems could occur, including overheating and starting a fire.

And on any L.E.D. 120VAC strand, always make sure it's DIMMABLE, as there are some that aren't, Martha Stewart brand comes to mind, and these have been actually noted to catch fire when dimmed!

Good Luck.

[dibblejr]

The pixie series controllers will be your best way (easiest) to get introduced in to the world of pixels.

Your question really has not been answered.

Keeping the answer simple - Yes you will need the pixie or another (smart pixel controller). Pixcon16 or pixie 4/8/16 (they have a 2 but you already have nodes so you will have to go beyond that)

The only pre assembled controllers that LOR offers that you would use pixie16 or pixcon16 of which as I mentioned the pixie is the easiest to get running from box to lights. If you do go with any of the pixies be sure to purchase the RED high speed adapter and a spare if you can. You will need that and the pro license to run the pixies.

If you do go with the pixies but want to build it yourself I have videos and once purchased or built I have a great video and step by step tutorial located at the top of the General HArdware section of the forums.

Keeping it simple

You have plenty of time to work with a pixie and I help anyone who needs help setting them up. Questions feel free to PM me.

JR

 

Edited October 1, 2020 by dibblejr

[weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com]

HEY! You’re in SC?! where by chance? 🤣 (Hence my name is chance) if so, which church? what are your plans with the lights? I am located in Bethune SC. If you are in the Midlands, I’ll be glad help with whatever I can.

[TheDucks]

@Blue

Before you get very deep. You need to have someone check what the Local Fire folk require if this is inside. Fire codes for public gathering places can be difficult. Your 1602 is rated for commercial.  My CTB16PC is not.

(and I have no clue how any of the Low Voltage stuff is treated by them folk. Obviously the PSU would need to be shock proofed, another reason I like the outdoor rated models with attached cords.)

[blueninja]

1 hour ago, weigh2fast4u@yahoo.com said:

HEY! You’re in SC?! where by chance? 🤣 (Hence my name is chance) if so, which church? what are your plans with the lights? I am located in Bethune SC. If you are in the Midlands, I’ll be glad help with whatever I can.

We are in Lexington so yes we are in the Midlands. Lexington Church of God.

We are merely creating character shapes of a few parts of the gospel story (I'm attempting corrugated plastic with pvc piping for stands) and then attaching the lights to the props. We will have a voiceover telling the story with inspirational music that does not need to be timed with the lights. We probably over killed it in some aspects like we have the Pro license but we tend to like getting things that can set us up to do more in the future. We just came up with the idea a week ago as a replacement for our fall event so naturally we are looking at a Halloween week timetable so time is short. That is why I'm probably going to forgo the pixels for the time being, but willing to add them in down the road as we will add this feature to our fall event starting next year.

 

[blueninja]

40 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

@Blue

Before you get very deep. You need to have someone check what the Local Fire folk require if this is inside. Fire codes for public gathering places can be difficult. Your 1602 is rated for commercial.  My CTB16PC is not.

(and I have no clue how any of the Low Voltage stuff is treated by them folk. Obviously the PSU would need to be shock proofed, another reason I like the outdoor rated models with attached cords.)

Everything will be outside. I chose the commercial because I figured it would be more robust.

[blueninja]

2 hours ago, dibblejr said:

The pixie series controllers will be your best way (easiest) to get introduced in to the world of pixels.

Your question really has not been answered.

Keeping the answer simple - Yes you will need the pixie or another (smart pixel controller). Pixcon16 or pixie 4/8/16 (they have a 2 but you already have nodes so you will have to go beyond that)

The only pre assembled controllers that LOR offers that you would use pixie16 or pixcon16 of which as I mentioned the pixie is the easiest to get running from box to lights. If you do go with any of the pixies be sure to purchase the RED high speed adapter and a spare if you can. You will need that and the pro license to run the pixies.

If you do go with the pixies but want to build it yourself I have videos and once purchased or built I have a great video and step by step tutorial located at the top of the General HArdware section of the forums.

Keeping it simple

You have plenty of time to work with a pixie and I help anyone who needs help setting them up. Questions feel free to PM me.

JR

 

Thanks for the advice, but based on our timetable I'm going to stick with LED strands for now and use the controller we have. Perhaps next year we can add in some pixiels. 

Can anyone recommend some dimmable LED's? I've done a quick Google search and stopped at Walmart this morning but I didn't see anything that said dimmable unless they had programming already in them. I did grab an LED string just to start playing with making props and doing some programming.

[k6ccc]

41 minutes ago, blueninja said:

Thanks for the advice, but based on our timetable I'm going to stick with LED strands for now and use the controller we have. Perhaps next year we can add in some pixiels.

Good plan.

42 minutes ago, blueninja said:

Can anyone recommend some dimmable LED's? I've done a quick Google search and stopped at Walmart this morning but I didn't see anything that said dimmable unless they had programming already in them. I did grab an LED string just to start playing with making props and doing some programming.

https://thechristmaslightemporium.com/

https://www.holiday-light-express.com/

All the ones on my singing faces are from HLE.  If you do get something from one of the big box stores - AVOID the Martha Stewart brand like the plague.  They have a reputation of catching fire when dimmed.

 

[dibblejr]

1 hour ago, blueninja said:

Thanks for the advice, but based on our timetable I'm going to stick with LED strands for now and use the controller we have. Perhaps next year we can add in some pixiels. 

Can anyone recommend some dimmable LED's? I've done a quick Google search and stopped at Walmart this morning but I didn't see anything that said dimmable unless they had programming already in them. I did grab an LED string just to start playing with making props and doing some programming.

Just buy the Walmart LED's. You will have no problems fading them. They are always available and no waiting times unless they run out of colors.  I replaced almost all of my singing props from incan to LED years ago with Walmart LEDs and they all still work.

Along with my older setups- all were Walmart from minis to C9. I have never had a problem with fades, shimmers or anything I threw at them.

Dont mix and match , I dont use Target or the dollar store lights only Holiday Time from Wal Mart. 

JR

Edited October 1, 2020 by dibblejr

[blueninja]

1 hour ago, k6ccc said:

Good plan.

https://thechristmaslightemporium.com/

https://www.holiday-light-express.com/

All the ones on my singing faces are from HLE.  If you do get something from one of the big box stores - AVOID the Martha Stewart brand like the plague.  They have a reputation of catching fire when dimmed.

 

Thank you! On a plus note, I tried out the Walmart LED's I got this morning and did some testing, they work marvelously!

[TheDucks]

Just SHUN Martha Stuart brand. Smoke and Flame is very possible.

I used Walgreens 5mm LED. My first year the had a wide selection (Rd, Gn, Bu, PUR, WWh, Pink, Multi). Later years the pick'ns got real slim.

Good tip: Don't mix brands for a single color. they wont look the same