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Controlling MR16's ??


Tim P
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Hi All,



I want to know a little bit more about how to hook up the MR16's to the dc powers supply and the yhst-1552586516070_2020_4264681.

I also want to know how I sequence the MR16's



My guess for hook up is: The dc power supply is plugged into an outlet in the wall > then I'm assuming 2 or 4 wires will come out of the 12v power supply and take the converted power to the yhst-1552586516070_2020_4264681?? Am I right so far?



Then I'm guessing the lights themselves are on a channel. IE 4 reds 2 green for a total of 6 MR16's. I can have all on channel 1 or I can have channels 1,2,3 and 4 for the reds and then channels 5 and 6 for green. Am I right??

Now I also am aware of the RGB color mxing,but if I ramp up/fade in 1 green and 2 reds it will create X color , or maybe ramp the 2 reds up to 100% intensity and the greens to 50% , and that may create a different color.



Anyway I think you know what I'm asking?

Also is the yhst-1552586516070_2020_4264681 get set up like a normal 16 channels controller, does it appear like normal in the sequencing editor??



Sorry if I'm not clear.



Thanks

Tim

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I think you're correct on all counts.

Stay tuned -- I'm in the process of doing this all myself for the first time. I'm taking pics along the way, and when I'm done, I'll post a how-to.

But basically (as far as I understand), you will sequence this just like any other controller. And like any other controller, you could put one light per channel, or many, up to the capacity of the channel (I have to look it up but if you're using LED's you're unlikely to exceed it...)

-Tim

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Wow Tim, There is no way I could be right on all counts. Anyway, I hope so! I wish you well on your journey of this MR16/LOR DC card/ 12v power supply hook up. I am definetly looking forward to your pics and process.



Thanks

Tim

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Right on all accounts. 12VDC power supply to AC power. Hook MR16s to the channels of the CMB16D just as you would for a 1600, attach the cat5 cable as you would for any LOR board, and you are in business. Assign the unit ID using the dials on the board. I bought four during the sale, three for Wirekat's MR 16s and one that I have attached to an EZ Light Linker that I use in my train to control the lights and motors.

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Jeff Millard wrote:

Tim Fischer wrote:
....I'm in the process of doing this all myself for the first time. I'm taking pics along the way, and when I'm done, I'll post a how-to....
-Tim


Tim,

What are you using for a D.C. power supply? I couldn't find anything reasonably priced that had alot of capacity. I looked for a bit, then shelved the idea for this year. I did see an HP DC supply on eBay that had 50 amps @10 volts. I think it was $50 but I don't recall... I wonder how that would work out....

Jeff

Planning on using an old ATX (PC) power supply. It's way overkill for this appication (I think it's rated 20A at 12V) but I had it in my parts box and it should work fine...

There's a link floating around on how to convert one for general use. Basically you cut off all the connectors, sort all wires by color, and jumper the green wire to any black wire. Then you can get 12V between yellow and black.

-Tim
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Those are the same ones that I ordered; they work great and you can't beat the price.

I get a lot of my supplies from them; right now, they have good deals on clearance cable ties. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/search.itml?icQuery=cable+ties I bought 10 bags of 100 for 97 cents per bag. Bought my soldering station there also. If you are in need of a good multi-meter and you order is $50 or more, you can get one free, regular price is $30 http://www.circuitspecialists.com/level.itml/icOid/190

(I have several of them, don't know what I will do with all of them, but hey, they were free!)

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Tim P wrot

Is there a heat sink required when I order the yhst-1552586516070_2020_4264681???

Most likely not, if you're using LED's. The current version of the board supports up to 4A per channel without a heatsink. That's something like 24 MR-16's per channel...

If you do use a heat sink, you need to take precautions. From the docu:
Second generation CMB16Ds boards have transistors with metal tabs. Heat sinks are not required if the current draw per channel is 4 amps or less. The metal tab of the transistor is electrically hot and a TO-220 insulating kit (mica wafer and screw grommet) is required when mounting the transistors to metal heat sinks. Also, keep this fact in mind when using the board since it is possible to short out the metal tab transistors more easily than the plastic tab first generation board.

Also of interest:
CMB16D is almost always used to control LEDs or some type of relay/solenoid, so high current is not an issue. Trial and error is a reasonable way to go here. Connect up your load and use the Hardware Utility to slowly increase the intensity. See how warm the transistor gets, if you can’t touch it, it needs a heat sink.

-Tim
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  • 2 weeks later...

I also use the power supply from circuit specialists. Plenty of amps for my MR16's

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Tim P wrote:

I also want to know how I sequence the MR16's

Tim #3 chiming in. This is my first year to use the LOR DC board and Wirekat's MR16s. The thing I noticed, and I believe Kevin has mentioned, is that the MR16s ramp up and down differently than my mini lights. It was very evident when testing the board out for the first time. So you may want to take that into consideration when doing your sequencing.

I also used an ATX PS that I got from Micro Center for $25. Has two 12V rails, one with 12 amps and the other with 14. So plenty of power to run a lot of MR16s. I did have to modify it as Tim F mentioned. Kevin has a how-to on his website, http://www.christmasinkent.com/howto/HowToDCboard.htm. Easy to do.
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  • 3 years later...

I am looking at using a 12v car battery when running the show and recharge while in down time and a small power pack during programming do you think this is a good option:)

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Nope.

When car batteries are fully charged, they are 13.8 volts.

Kinda much for the 12 volt lights.


They do make 12v incandescent MR-16s and 120volt MR-16s. Check Ebay.

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If you are concerned about over-voltage, you could always put two rectifier diodes in series with the battery. This will drop the voltage by about 1.4 volts, to 12.4 volts.

If you have spare bulbs, you could also connect one to a channel and leave it turned on for a few hours at full voltage.

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