Roxxxtar Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) I am making two huge displays using coroplast. I have watched a couple of videos linked off of planetchristmas in which the poster used wood for his frames. I wasn't crazy about that idea, because of the condition of the wood over time, weight, etc... Just so you know when I say huge, I'm talking about the car I have drawn, 1937 Oldsmobile from A Christmas Story uses two sheets of Coro, so that's 4 ft tall and 16 foot long (Actually used another foot and a half of another sheet to finish the roof). The other display is Cousin Eddie's RV from Christmas Vacation. It uses a total of four sheets of Coro. So that's also 16 ft long, but 8ft tall. I have already used thinner to get the glaze off the coro, primed it, and already drawn both vehicles. So before painting, I thought I should frame them so I can paint over and screws/ washers. Who better to ask than you guys, do you have any better ideas for framing such a huge project? After all the work I am putting in to this, I seriously don't want the wind to destroy them. Edited March 21, 2019 by Roxxxtar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caniac Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 8 hours ago, Roxxxtar said: I am making two huge displays using coroplast. I have watched a couple of videos linked off of planetchristmas in which the poster used wood for his frames. I wasn't crazy about that idea, because of the condition of the wood over time, weight, etc... Just so you know when I say huge, I'm talking about the car I have drawn, 1937 Oldsmobile from A Christmas Story uses two sheets of Coro, so that's 4 ft tall and 16 foot long (Actually used another foot and a half of another sheet to finish the roof). The other display is Cousin Eddie's RV from Christmas Vacation. It uses a total of four sheets of Coro. So that's also 16 ft long, but 8ft tall. I have already used thinner to get the glaze off the coro, primed it, and already drawn both vehicles. So before painting, I thought I should frame them so I can paint over and screws/ washers. Who better to ask than you guys, do you have any better ideas for framing such a huge project? After all the work I am putting in to this, I seriously don't want the wind to destroy them. I personally use 2 x 2 to frame out my coro props or at least the 4mm variety, 10mm seems to be rigid enough to withstand most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 That large of a sheet of coroplast is going to be a huge wind load. A quick Google search found several windload calculators. I would start by determining what the windload will be based on the highest wind speed that can be expected. The wind load goes up at a squared function so it goes up very fast as the wind speed increases. As for structure, for my 48x48 inch Holiday Coro singing faces, I used 3/4 inch aluminum U channel. The Coro was attached to it with screws and 1.25 inch fender washers. I used the aluminum mainly for the weight savings. I can’t tell you how well it will hold up in wind because the faces did not get mounted on the roof as planned because I was running really late. That meant that the two faces just leaned up against the front of the house. Next year will get them onto the roof. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLH lites Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Try 1 inch aluminum angle , strong easy to work with and light. you could make all the sections and then bolt them together, take apart for storage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibblejr Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 I use 2x4’s or 2x6 on my larger ones. My two snowman are over 6’tall. I also use emt conduit to prop them up. Last season we had some 80mph winds and one snowman turned a little but did not fall over. AL will cost use good $ and not add weight. Best of luck JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 I totally agree about the wind load. Cut many vent flaps (so the hinge is in a coro groove) which can easily to unload the force . Look at those big banners strung across spans to see what I am suggesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roxxxtar Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 On 3/21/2019 at 6:19 PM, TheDucks said: I totally agree about the wind load. Cut many vent flaps (so the hinge is in a coro groove) which can easily to unload the force . Look at those big banners strung across spans to see what I am suggesting Thanks for the responses everyone. Would you mind elaborating on the “vent flaps” for a simple minded person like myself? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDucks Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 14 hours ago, Roxxxtar said: Thanks for the responses everyone. Would you mind elaborating on the “vent flaps” for a simple minded person like myself? lol Think upside down, old fashioned key hole, CUT on outlines only, about 3" for the hole part. The top of the slot part (~1", is the "hinge" (not cut, the reason for being inline with the coro grooves:flexibility) What was interesting, when I googled for a picture, the first banner company recommended AGAINST: Weakens the banner (not that it did not reduce load. But they did point out, it was a small % reduction of the total when they were included) So maybe just stronger braces? Deeper anchors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now