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Listen to the lights

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Hey Army,

The HU tells you what model and firmware for each device found.

But, when we say Gen 3 for the AC controller, the board will say V3 and the give away,is the LED is now Green and the firmware drops  back to the start because it supports new hardware. Wit firmware: One sizes does not fit all.

Gen 2' have 4.x FW Only use the firmware for your model or you will sink your ship (ex-Navy here )

 

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46 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

Hey Army,

The HU tells you what model and firmware for each device found.

But, when we say Gen 3 for the AC controller, the board will say V3 and the give away,is the LED is now Green and the firmware drops  back to the start because it supports new hardware. Wit firmware: One sizes does not fit all.

Gen 2' have 4.x FW Only use the firmware for your model or you will sink your ship (ex-Navy here )

 

Ok, so just to clarify: there is no way to make the Gen 2 device compatible through a firmware update, correct? I’ve already ordered an additional dongle, but that’ll take a week to get here, so I’m gauging my options. 

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8 minutes ago, Army Lights said:

Ok, so just to clarify: there is no way to make the Gen 2 device compatible through a firmware update, correct? I’ve already ordered an additional dongle, but that’ll take a week to get here, so I’m gauging my options. 

You are correct. 2 things to allow the Gen2 on the same network . 1) Max speed 115K,  2)No enhanced mode on that network 3)and probably, really simple pixel programs (very small changes. nothing rapid) as to not use all the bandwidth

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5 hours ago, TheDucks said:

You are correct. 2 things to allow the Gen2 on the same network . 1) Max speed 115K,  2)No enhanced mode on that network 3)and probably, really simple pixel programs (very small changes. nothing rapid) as to not use all the bandwidth

Have you tried using slow chases with pixels?   It looks like a funeral procession, it's just WAAAAAAYYYYY too slow.  And by adding the RGB pixels creating the slow lighting, drop outs{total black out of some lights} and lag times were why I moved to S4 PRO in the first place.  Then I didn't realize I needed a red HS adapter for the pixels, since running that at 57.6k or 115k was still too dadgum slow and caused all those aforementioned issues! 

So I needed to get a HS adapter, so I had to put the RGB lighting on a separate high speed 500K Enhanced Network and ALL my lighting issues with way too slow chases, lags and even complete drop outs of the pixels and drop outs on the AC Controllers all went away.  

And it's because I tried running the RGB lighting on the same network {on a black adapter USB RS485B} as my older V2 AC Controllers {4 of them} and the RGB lights { 5 CCB100D Controllers and 10 strands of RGB Smart Pixels} them, and the{AC Controllers} both would drop out{black out lights at random times}, lag or skip sections of lights{lights completely off when they should be on and sometimes they'd turn lights on when they should be off!},.  Example:  My 3 channel arches would light channels 1, 3,  channel 2 got blacked out, then the second arch would end up lighting only its center section{channel 5}, channels 4 and 6 would get blacked out, maybe, just maybe one of them would light as it was actually sequenced.  And it did this randomly with the RGB Pixels and the lights on the AC Controllers.   So if you have old incandescent or even RGB arches, it can really make them look really goofy and not light as they were sequenced.  Along with other lighting in your display!

Edited by Orville
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18 hours ago, jtomason said:

I'm sure they would, but I don't have one of those to verify.  Let me take some pictures of them tomorrow bent and let you see how much clearance above the connector you need.  

It was only booted cables that are an issue, the boots don't bend very well, definitely could not bend them enough to get them into the upper jack, the boot was too long and would let even get it into the upper jack.  Once I cut the boot off, I could get it to fit and work on the basic round cat5 cables.  That's why I'm wondering if the booted flat cables are going to have that same issue in the CCB100D or Pixie in the box style controllers that have this same makeup.  I wish they had used the same type of dual jack the CTB16PC controllers have, then it wouldn't really matter which type cable booted or not I used in them.

  I know due to the slimness of the RGB boxes, much, much smaller than AC Controller types, that the lid mounted jacks with their openings facing the lid wouldn't work, but couldn't they have used a dual facing downward jack similar to the CTB16PC types for the cat cable connections in the RGB boxes?  Then the boot issue wouldn't even exist in them.   I'm guessing it's the way the circuitry is designed in them that may prohibit the use of a single dual opening cat cable jack, and is why they used a separate cat cable jack system like they did in the RGB boxes.

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This is why when I make my cables I leave the strands way outside the connector. And I do not use the strain relief or covers.

I have flat cable I use for my security cams but never thought about them for LOR since I pay about twice as much for the flat cable bare spool.

JR

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On ‎12‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 7:50 PM, Listen to the lights said:

Now the challenge becomes, the most efficient way to run Ethernet from inside to outside without drilling a hole.

My first couple of years I had my show computer (laptop) on a shelf in the garage next to the first controller.  Now I have moved it inside the house by the house computer.  Luckily I have access to my attic with plenty of room to move around.  I drilled a hole in the top plate of the wall behind to computer and ran 6 lines of cat5e down into the house.  1 for E1.31 and 5 for LOR networks (just in case things come to that).  They run out to some RJ45 covered plates mounted in the soffits on each side of the house, then I run a line down to the controllers.  Color coding and labeling became very important at that point.

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1 hour ago, Little_b said:

My first couple of years I had my show computer (laptop) on a shelf in the garage next to the first controller.  Now I have moved it inside the house by the house computer.  Luckily I have access to my attic with plenty of room to move around.  I drilled a hole in the top plate of the wall behind to computer and ran 6 lines of cat5e down into the house.  1 for E1.31 and 5 for LOR networks (just in case things come to that).  They run out to some RJ45 covered plates mounted in the soffits on each side of the house, then I run a line down to the controllers.  Color coding and labeling became very important at that point.

Yes, I also have extra cables going from third floor to garage level as well. I needed those any way for security cameras. I also have some extra twine ran along side just in case. 

The good about POE cameras, only one cable to pull.

JR

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It may be that you need to cut the boots off of these as well.  Here’s the pictures so you can judge for yourself. 

 

wab7bUZ.jpg

 

EvOWLsk.jpg

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1 hour ago, Soupy8728 said:

If they came in a longer size those would be perfect for the CCB100D and probably the CCC-II pixie controllers.  And yes, cat6 can be used the same as a cat5 cable.  My issue is I need those to be in a 25 foot, 50 foot, 75 foot and 100 foot lengths!   And I only saw 3', 5' and 10 foot.    Nothing longer, I searched and came up empty.  Would also be nice if both ends had right angle connectors on them.

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9 hours ago, jtomason said:

It may be that you need to cut the boots off of these as well.  Here’s the pictures so you can judge for yourself. 

 

wab7bUZ.jpg

 

EvOWLsk.jpg

Same boots on my rounded cables, they'll bend the same way, just NOT enough for the CCB100D Smart Pixel controllers.  So, yes, I'd still have to cut the boots off.  But flat cables would be much better since I have to currently run them under a door or window to get mine outside.  Fortunately my front door has somewhat of a gap under it, so it doesn't pinch the cables at all.

Plan on eventually putting in a pass through plate on the inside and outside of the walls, then I just have to plug them into the outside jack and not worry about snaking cat cables like I had to this year, up the wall, over the hallway, across the ceiling molding and down the wall to the RS486 adapters.  A royal pain in the butt, but only way I could do it without creating a trip hazard and keeping the cats from chewing on them.

Hopefully sometime next year in 2019 I'll get the front bedroom cleared out and turn it into my LOR/computer workroom and add the inside/outside cat cable plates and jacks and not have to do this again next year!

Edited by Orville
change cab;es to cables
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I have cut all the boots of my network cables. 

So much easier to remove and reduce damage to network connector on controllers.

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32 minutes ago, Orville said:

If they came in a longer size those would be perfect for the CCB100D and probably the CCC-II pixie controllers.  And yes, cat6 can be used the same as a cat5 cable.  My issue is I need those to be in a 25 foot, 50 foot, 75 foot and 100 foot lengths!   And I only saw 3', 5' and 10 foot.    Nothing longer, I searched and came up empty.  Would also be nice if both ends had right angle connectors on them. 

Just use an inline connector to get the length you want and then you can have 90's on both ends.

https://www.electriduct.com/Cat5E-Cat6-Inline-Couplers.html

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1 hour ago, Orville said:

Same boots on my rounded cables, they'll bend the same way, just NOT enough for the CCB100D Smart Pixel controllers.  So, yes, I'd still have to cut the boots off.  But flat cables would be much better since I have to currently run them under a door or window to get mine outside.  Fortunately my front door has somewhat of a gap under it, so it doesn't pinch the cables at all.

Plan on eventually putting in a pass through plate on the inside and outside of the walls, then I just have to plug them into the outside jack and not worry about snaking cat cables like I had to this year, up the wall, over the hallway, across the ceiling molding and down the wall to the RS486 adapters.  A royal pain in the butt, but only way I could do it without creating a trip hazard and keeping the cats from chewing on them.

Hopefully sometime next year in 2019 I'll get the front bedroom cleared out and turn it into my LOR/computer workroom and add the inside/outside cat cable plates and jacks and not have to do this again next year!

I found a spot on the bottom edges of my windowsills that was basically a quarter-inch of plastic with an air gap between them.  I drilled a hole on each side and ran cat6 through the winowframe.  On the inside, it's terminated with a cat5 jack (wife approved!), and on the outside the cable runs down and below the porch.  I may wind up terminating it with a jack as well and securing the cat6 in a more aesthetically pleasing manner once the season is over, but for now, it makes things quick and easy. 

OLArYIf.jpg

 

DhmXpK8.jpg

Edited by jtomason
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Those inline couplers and the 90 degree cat cable extender one with the jack on the end look promising. 

I just wonder how well they'd hold up under the wet, humid weather we have outdoors in Florida?

Especially since that's where they'd be and they be fully exposed to the Florida weather and full sun.  I don't have any overhangs or soffits on this manufactured home.   So wonder just how well those will actually hold up outside used in the elements, especially in Florida where we sometimes have some torrential rainstorms.  {It's why I prefer straight run full length cables, then I don't have to worry about something like these getting wet or causing connectivity issues.  So where I would have to use these is a definite concern.}

Edited by Orville
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1 hour ago, Orville said:

Those inline couplers and the 90 degree cat cable extender one with the jack on the end look promising. 

I just wonder how well they'd hold up under the wet, humid weather we have outdoors in Florida?

Especially since that's where they'd be and they be fully exposed to the Florida weather and full sun.  I don't have any overhangs or soffits on this manufactured home.   So wonder just how well those will actually hold up outside used in the elements, especially in Florida where we sometimes have some torrential rainstorms.  {It's why I prefer straight run full length cables, then I don't have to worry about something like these getting wet or causing connectivity issues.  So where I would have to use these is a definite concern.}

I'd think that the 90 degree extender and the normal cable plugged into it would be entirely inside the enclosure, no?    That's what I would do.  

 

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17 hours ago, jtomason said:

I'd think that the 90 degree extender and the normal cable plugged into it would be entirely inside the enclosure, no?    That's what I would do.  

 

The distance is a LOT shorter than the AC Controller Jacks, the Cat cable jacks in the RGB Controllers in the colored boxes are mounted on the side and 2 separate jacks, they are also closer to the entry/exit port holes, so I'm almost sure that extender cables end would be outside the box.  The way I run the cables the upper cable bends about 30 degrees or a little less maybe, then goes over the lower jack to exit or enter the box.  Usually have to put the bottom cable jack in first, then the upper one.   And they are a very short distance apart.  I've not measured it exactly, but a guess by sight I'd think maybe there is about 1-1/2" to possibly 2" between the back of the lower jack and the upper jack opening for the cat cable in the upper one.  AS they are mounted vertically, one above the other.  And I'd think from the upper jack to the exit/entry port is approximately 5" to maybe 6" {again, will have to measure}, but seeing that extender is 10" upward to the 90 degree connector, I'm almost certain the extender cable jack end will be dangling outside and just under the box by a few inches.

I'd go and measure one, but all controllers are outside at this time and it's raining, supposedly all day.  So will have to wait 'til it dries out and get some accurate measurements from that top connector to the exit/entry port, but I'm still pretty positive, the jack end is going to end up outside the box.   Maybe I can find a small box at the local surplus parts store and drill that out and seal the cat cable connections inside, but would make it really difficult to replace them if one goes bad.  So not sure if I want to do it that way.   Going to have to figure out something though.

Edited by Orville
correct pinctuation and a couple of dyslexic spelling errors.
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1 hour ago, Orville said:

The distance is a LOT shorter than the AC Controller Jacks, the Cat cable jacks in the RGB Controllers in the colored boxes are mounted on the side and 2 separate jacks, they are also closer to the entry/exit port holes, so I'm almost sure that extender cables end would be outside the box.  The way I run the cables the upper cable bends about 30 degrees or a little less maybe, then goes over the lower jack to exit or enter the box.  Usually have to put the bottom cable jack in first, then the upper one.   And they are a very short distance apart.  I've not measured it exactly, but a guess by sight I'd think maybe there is about 1-1/2" to possibly 2" between the back of the lower jack and the upper jack opening for the cat cable in the upper one.  AS they are mounted vertically, one above the other.  And I'd think from the upper jack to the exit/entry port is approximately 5" to maybe 6" {again, will have to measure}, but seeing that extender is 10" upward to the 90 degree connector, I'm almost certain the extender cable jack end will be dangling outside and just under the box by a few inches.

I'd go and measure one, but all controllers are outside at this time and it's raining, supposedly all day.  So will have to wait 'til it dries out and get some accurate measurements from that top connector to the exit/entry port, but I'm still pretty positive, the jack end is going to end up outside the box.   Maybe I can find a small box at the local surplus parts store and drill that out and seal the cat cable connections inside, but would make it really difficult to replace them if one goes bad.  So not sure if I want to do it that way.   Going to have to figure out something though.

We had all that rain last night - cancelled the show.  Fortunately it didn't get severe as they thought it might.   

Heck, at this rate, it might be simpler for me to come over there and make you a CAT6 cable with the jacket not fully inserted so it can do 90 degrees right off the RJ-45 plug.  Secure it inside the case for strain relief and you should be good.   

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