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Too much in one case? heat issues?


brichi

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as you can see in the pics I posted I jammed in 2-12v p/s', a Pixie8 and a fuse block, all closes and works great but the box is obviously getting a little hot running 700 pixels. 

Are there good vents you guys use for the Holiday Coro boxes? I have a vent in fan in bigger boxes but it won't fit on the side of these. I feel I should vent this box out on the sides somehow or come up with a different idea maybe.

thanks guys

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9uqkr0s4avyxcf8/Photo Apr 03%2C 11 20 14 PM.jpg?dl=0

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Let me get you the part numbers. I posted them in our other thread. Of course the boxes I purchased are huge so I put a vent in both bottom and top since hot air rises. Mine have been doing fine running. I just don't have them all buttoned up as far as the wiring since I am still working on the matrix

Here you go

You have the option of adding a fan that will screw into the vent but I didn't. I have 2 PS and 2 pixie 16's in mybox and could possible fit another howevr I left breathing room for everything and everything is mounted in the cabinet not the door.

 

http://www.budind.com/view/NEMA+Box+Accessories/Air+_+Moisture+Vents

 

Edited by dibblejr
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27 minutes ago, brichi said:

 

as you can see in the pics I posted I jammed in 2-12v p/s', a Pixie8 and a fuse block, all closes and works great but the box is obviously getting a little hot running 700 pixels. 

Are there good vents you guys use for the Holiday Coro boxes? I have a vent in fan in bigger boxes but it won't fit on the side of these. I feel I should vent this box out on the sides somehow or come up with a different idea maybe.

thanks guys

 

 

 

Brichi

One option is a vent made by bud industry. This vent is 3 inches tall and allows you to mount a 60x10mm fan inside the box. The fan physically mounts to the vent on the inside and helps with circulation. It's pretty small and should work with your box. 

Good luck

Eric 

 

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Enclosures-Boxes-Cases-1-10in-External/dp/B011NATZBK

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I decided that I would go with the PSU on the outside (CG1500) using the WP model (mounts with fan facing down.) LED PSU

Waiting for Friday to get controllers :P. 2 should fit in the box, but I will need to extend the 12V leads (HCs are fairly short. 18" would have been perfect)

I also have a small fan (any fan is better than none) and a RV vent to keep direct splashes. I will see how this goes, once all the goodies arive

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Thanks guys, the Buddi have on a bigger box, it would be too big for the sides of the CG-1500 though.

 

TheDucks, which vent are you using?  I was going to mount the LOR weatherproof PS on the outside but its only 200W so i decided to keep it for the small window LED setup. 

 

option "B" in the first link may work, thanks  http://www.budind.com/view/NEMA+Box+Accessories/Air+_+Moisture+Vents

Edited by brichi
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I'm thinking if i move the fuse block over and cut the white mounting plate, I can then install the vents and fans i purchased for the other box and mount them on back, the Bud one marked "new" that allows the mountable fan

 

Cut this part out -  https://www.dropbox.com/s/f3g125r4zav2zl5/vent.tiff?dl=0

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If it was me I would move the fuse block and install a couple of 3 inch round soffit vents that you can get at any big box hardware store. Then use a couple of pieces of larger shop vac hose slipped over the vents on the inside so that they line up with the fans on the power supply when the door is closed. This will allow the heat to be pushed directly out of the box when the fans are turned on from the power supply. Then I would install a couple of those same three inch vents on the front face for cold air intake. Doing this requires some careful measuring to make sure that the vents that you put on the back line up with the fans on the power supplies. And carefully cutting the shop vac hose so it just touches the power supply when the door is closed. Make sure you use silicone installing the vents and the hoses so everything stays in place .

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thanks, i just ordered this vent and a fan to suck the air out - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3QU294

 

Im going to move the fuse block, cut the plate and the fans from the p/s's will be closing right to the vent suck the air out, I'm thinking that "should" be enough

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2 minutes ago, brichi said:

thanks, i just ordered this vent and a fan to suck the air out - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3QU294

 

Im going to move the fuse block, cut the plate and the fans from the p/s's will be closing right to the vent suck the air out, I'm thinking that "should" be enough

Exactly what I have, I got 4 - 2 for each box. I think I could fit almost 2 sg1500's in my box, just to give you a comparison. That's prob why I don't see any need for a fan. The 4th of July will be the test though. Temps here 100+ in July and I will have my tribute matrix going.

JR

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Be careful not to create a negative air pressure situation Inside the Box. The CG 1500 does not have a positive seal for the door and if you create negative pressure you could suck in water if it's raining.  Make sure you put in some vents to bring controlled air in. 

Edited by Ebuechner
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7 minutes ago, Ebuechner said:

Be careful not to create a negative air pressure situation Inside the Box. The CG 1500 does not have a positive seal for the door and if you create negative pressure you could suck in water if it's raining.  Make sure you put in some vents to bring controlled air in. 

I put 2 vents 1- bottom and 1 as close to the top as I could, since warm air rises. I also used risers ro give space between my mounting plexiglass and the bof itself allowing air to escape  from underneath.

JR

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Cross ventilation is always the best policy. I like to take advantage of the thermally controlled fans on the power supplies whenever possible. 

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i wonder if i could cancel the order i did and just do 2 vents like the aluminum and hoses of the fans to have it blow the air out the back, tough call. the only issue i see with that is I'm still not venting the box then, just the heat blowing out the p/s fans. The power supplies still will heat up the box

Edited by brichi
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4 minutes ago, brichi said:

i wonder if i could cancel the order i did and just do 2 vents like the aluminum and hoses of the fans to have it blow the air out the back, tough call. the only issue i see with that is I'm still not venting the box then, just the heat blowing out the p/s fans. The power supplies still will heat up the box

In your case you would need 4 vents 2 in and 2 out. The inside of your box gets cooled down by the cool air coming in and the power supplies draw the heat out with the fan, the hose doesn't match the fan exactly but you move enough air to keep it sufficiently cool. I've done this several times myself but usually my power supplies mounted on the back side and my outlet vent is on the face of the door. My Inlet vent is usually in that large round cut out area on the back of the box in the lower right corner as you're looking at it from the front. Those aluminum vents fit into their perfectly you just use a tin snip to trim the vent shorter or make vertical Cuts so you can bend the vent over on the inside of the box.

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I wonder how LOR with their P&P pixie16 is vented. The pixie16 sits on top of the PS. It states "vented box". To me that would seem like a lot of heat. I am sure they did their R&D though.

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10 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

I wonder how LOR with their P&P pixie16 is vented. The pixie16 sits on top of the PS. It states "vented box". To me that would seem like a lot of heat. I am sure they did their R&D though.

if you look close at their P&P 16 package you can see they just did slotted vents in the back

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