New to LOR, but not computerised Christmas lights

[marquisite]

Hi there,

I've been running a Christmas display since 1999, computerised since 2005. For the past three years I've used Olsen595 to switch low voltage 24v lights on and off. Most lighting, with the exception of ropelights and some inflatables, are 24v light sets running on 240v AC adapters.

From reading PlanetChristmas, and the Aussie LOR Google group, I believe the LOR products can cater for these light sets, including dimming without the transformer overheating. Is this true?

Also, is it possible to get a complete package PlanetChristmas (ctb16pc) line controller with Australian cordsets (example supply cord) (example output wallplate) set to 240v? I do not like the idea of dealing with mains power (or anything over 36v really) other than plugging the lights into the controller and controller into mains power - screwing ready made cables into place seems safe for me to do too but not much more than that.


Finally, does anybody have a rough estimate on shipping of a controller to Australia via ground (or water surface in this case)?

I'd appreciate some answers before the 'shhh secret sale'

[Steven]

marquisite wrote:

From reading PlanetChristmas, and the Aussie LOR Google group, I believe the LOR products can cater for these light sets, including dimming without the transformer overheating. Is this true?

Do not try to dim a transformer! Last year I had a 4-foot LED tree:


This is powered by a 120v AC to 24v AC "wall wart" transformer. I had the transformer plugged into a LOR controller. I knew I shouldn't be dimming it, but I accidentally left a "fade" in one of my sequences. It worked ok for a while, but then it stopped working. Examination of the transformer found the primary open. I cut the plastic case open and found the plastic stuff inside had melted!

As discussed here on some other forums, the way to control 24v AC with LOR is to run the secondary (24v) through the LOR controller. You can do this on channels 1 through 8 of a 16-channel controller without modifying it. However, the power for the controller logic comes from the input to channels 9-16. If you want to run 24v through those channels, you'll have to separate the logic power supply from the channel inputs. This should not be too difficult.

Another option is to convert to 24v DC and use the LOR DC controller.

[marquisite]

Really? I was of the impression that the transformer types which are rather heavy can handle dimming (like they output a percentage of the input, ie 10%), with the lighter plasticy adapters not handling the dimming (I only have two of the latter, which I don't intend to hook up to any sort of computer controller) As for seperating the logic power supply, I'm not quite sure what you mean. Actually I might email deblen maybe. They live only a few streets over and trialed LOR last year. I spotted some light sets which were the same brand as I had which were being dimmed.

Running the actual controller at 24v would require a rather chunky, large transformer which probably costs a heap of money here.

Hmm maybe I'll just purchase one controller and the starter kit, and trial dimming on an old light set which works but has a dud flasher (overheats). If I mess that set up I'm not too fussed. If it doesn't work deblen might want another controller who knows.

For the past 3 years I used Olsen595 switchers inbetween the adapter and first light bulb. It worked well, except you can't fade anything and it was too dangerous to connect anything more than 26v (bare wires inside speaker terminals)