Ends of Strips

[EmmienLightFan]

I need to cut strips in half and solder on connections because I am making a matrix which is 250x60cm and I aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa will be using 5m WS12B 150 LED strips.

 

What do I put on the end and does anyone have any tips for soldering onto strips? I really don't want to mess up and ruin a strip, and I am not the best with my soldering iron, the one I spent a whole £4 on.

Edited January 8, 2016 by EmmienLightFan

[canadianchristmas]

I use these on the ends of my strips: http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=76 then I attach them with silicon epoxy (this can be found at any standerd hardware store often in plumbing)

then I cover it all in liquid electrical tape I am not sure if you can get it in the Uk.

 

As for soldering I suggest you check out these videos from Dave Johns (EEvlog)

Part 1: https://youtu.be/J5Sb21qbpEQ

Part 2: https://youtu.be/fYz5nIHH0iY

Part 3: https://youtu.be/b9FC9fAlfQE

 

Yes there long videos but if you have a few hours to spare WATCH ALL OF THEM!

Another piece of advice I have is to get rid of the £4 soldering iron and get a proper temperature controlled one. I own one similar to this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Variable-Temperature-Adjustable-Controlled-Soldering/dp/B003HLP9JQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1452310808&sr=8-8&keywords=soldering+iron This is a very basic temperature controlled unit but it works for me at the moment until I can afford to get a higher end soldering station (hakko here I come!!!  ).

Another piece of advice is to find different tips for your soldering iron as that will allow better heat transfer to the PCB giving you a better joint without having to keep the iron on the PCB of the strip to long. If you keep the soldering iron on the PCB to long you could lift the solder pads wich is not very good).

 

 

And at one point I wasn't very good at soldering and had a very cheap soldering iron too if you want to laugh at me here is a old post I made in 2013 because I was scared to solder http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/28131-scared-to-solder-need-advice/?p=264244 Now when I look at this post I laugh! I have built tons of controller kits now and am very happy with my progress since then. 

 

 

I hope this helps you some what I am tired so sorry if this post turned into a bit of a ramble.

[Dcroc]

I would practice on bad/spare strips.  You will probably go thru a few sections before getting good at it.

[EmmienLightFan]

I would practice on bad/spare strips.  You will probably go thru a few sections before getting good at it.

Well, I don't have any

I really don't want to ruin any strips. I think I can do it, I can solder OK on PCBs, but this is much more fragile.

 

If I just get a drop of solder on the pad, tin the wire, put my iron on the pad, then poke the tinned wire in, will it work?

 

I need somewhere to find the ends for the strips. Buying them from DIYLEDExpress would be expensive because of shipping.

I can't see any in Ray;s Store on AliExpress, but that would be the best place as I have some stuff to get and his shipping to the UK is cheaper than to the US.

[mikewlaymon]

I just pump a generous amount of silicon caulk into the tube, then use dual-wall shrink tube (about 3/4 to 1").  If it's the end of the strip with no wire connection, I cut the shrink tube about 1/4" longer, then make sure it's completely filled with silicon once it has been "shrunk".  Rained several times on my display this year with no problems.

[saxon]

If connectors is what your after ray wu has them, I've bought many.

I then use silicon adhesive and fill the tube end. dont be cheap, fill at least a 1/2 inch. Generous like mike said.

After dry, I stick the end in my mouth and draw like a straw. If you have a leak, the tube will collapse. (Providing the other end is sealed.).

Holiday Coro has a video on soldering connectors to strips.

[BMurray]

I just pump a generous amount of silicon caulk into the tube, then use dual-wall shrink tube (about 3/4 to 1"). If it's the end of the strip with no wire connection, I cut the shrink tube about 1/4" longer, then make sure it's completely filled with silicon once it has been "shrunk". Rained several times on my display this year with no problems.

I do the same but with hot glue. In the strip end first. Wait for it to dry. Then apply the shrink tubing then I pump hot glue into the end of the shrink tube. It then shrinks on its own. As it does it squeezes any excess glue out. I wait for it to dry then snip off any excess I don't want. Has worked great for me for the 27 dumb strips (9 regular size strips cut down to make the 27 I needed) Edited January 9, 2016 by BMurray

[Bizywk]

I really like your hot glue idea BMurray.  We've used strips out of the box, and used only shrink tubing/electrical tape to waterproof end joints & pigtails for the last two years with high success.  This last year, we created a bunch of window frames and decided to go the extra mile by using a generous dose of silicone RTV in the strip ends like those recommended by CanadianChristmas above.   Boy was that a HUGE mistake.  The RTV appeared to cure just fine and do it's job, but later we found out that at some point during the curing process, that it created a huge amount of instant corrosion on the solder joints.  Thinking that the RTV was an insulator we allowed it to get close to the solder joints, and in some cases, coat them.  Wherever the RTV happened to get close or touch any soldering joints, they turned black or even developed a bluish green thick film corrosion.  All joints were bright and cleaned from all flux reside prior to the RTV.  

 

We chased erratic performance all season long, taking the window frames back down for repair at least twice each.  Ripping apart the joints trying to clean and sometimes replace pixels is no fun.   I would think that hot glue wouldn't outgas and would be nearly instantly ready without the curing process.   The only issue I can see is that hot glue won't bind for long with the led strip silicone tube, but I think we'll try it.   

[EmmienLightFan]

Reading some of these I am not looking forward to building my matrix.

Strings are so much easier.

When a strip has been cut, won't the sleeve over it be the same length as the strip inside, making it hard to attach the wires and end piece?

I am even considering using strings instead, but that would be more work to build a frame and hold in place.

I like the hot glue idea, and I can't find the ends in Ray Wu's store.

[saxon]

Reading some of these I am not looking forward to building my matrix.

Strings are so much easier.

When a strip has been cut, won't the sleeve over it be the same length as the strip inside, making it hard to attach the wires and end piece?

I am even considering using strings instead, but that would be more work to build a frame and hold in place.

I like the hot glue idea, and I can't find the ends in Ray Wu's store.

 

yes it will be the same length but it stretches and collapses with a little finesse. it is easy to unsheathe and inch for soldering then slide it back.....HC, who is very knowledgeable on this stuff,  has a video showing him cutting a notch for soldering. This is not necessary unless it is a VERY short piece.

 

Heres the ends I was talking about from Ray Wu:

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/13-5mm-series-white-waterproof-pigtails/701799_250410969.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/15mm-series-black-waterproof-pigtails/701799_250415853.html

 

I tested hot glue and silicon last summer. I did not like the results of the hot glue, it did not seal 3 of the 4 test I did. But many people claim success using it. I just figure what better sealer to stick and seal to a silicon tube than silicon adhesive?. I have not noticed any corrosion on my connections.

 

edit:

I linked you to connectors. were you wanting the little end caps? sorry if I misunderstood. I don't use the end caps.

Edited January 10, 2016 by saxon

[EmmienLightFan]

 

edit:

I linked you to connectors. were you wanting the little end caps? sorry if I misunderstood. I don't use the end caps.

 

Yes, I need the end caps. I already have connectors and stuff.

[Dcroc]

I just cover the cut end in silicone. Have yet to experience one failure. Maybe I have just been lucky, but until I am not, I will continue this way.

[Dcroc]

Well, I don't have any

I really don't want to ruin any strips. I think I can do it, I can solder OK on PCBs, but this is much more fragile.

 

If I just get a drop of solder on the pad, tin the wire, put my iron on the pad, then poke the tinned wire in, will it work?

 

I need somewhere to find the ends for the strips. Buying them from DIYLEDExpress would be expensive because of shipping.

I can't see any in Ray;s Store on AliExpress, but that would be the best place as I have some stuff to get and his shipping to the UK is cheaper than to the US.

 

You should keep at least one spare handy.  I can't imagine the anguish while waiting for shipping on a new one while my display was down due to unforeseen issues. I believe they can be had for as little as $18 during the current presale at HC. It's also worth keeping any off cuts, no matter how short, for the purpose of practice.