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Channel Stuck on


waynebru
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I think that I blew out channel 10 with crossed wires and fed AC back into the unit. It blew one of the main fuses.
Now Channel 10 stays on all the time when sequences are not running and even when Hardware Utility sends a "lights out" command.
What is the easiest repair?

Attached files 146544=8615-DSC_8100.jpg

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If you can use a soldering station then you can replace that Triac. If not, then you will need to contact support@lightorama.com and let them know what you have.

You did not say if you assembled the board or purchased preassembled.

If you have any spare channels you could relocate that channel till the end of the season.

Chuck

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I'm not sure if my challenge is the exactly the same as yours, but I have a similar problem.

One channel will not turn off...even through the hardware utility....but will stay on at a faint glow (maybe 5-10%). Otherwise the channel responds fine to all commands in the sequences. The channel is only controlling 3 strands of 50 ct LEDS.

To the audience, I'm sure it is not noticable, so it is not a major concern and I have a spare channel that I can switch to as soon as it stops snowing and blowing.

The controller is one I bought assembled and was in use last year and have had no problems this year til now.

Would a simple reset of the board take care of the problem? Am I causing more problems by continuing to use the channel?

Thanks,

_____

Clay

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Clay,

I read on another string that since LED's do not pull much amperage they do not go off.

The thread suggested putting a 100 watt flood on the channel then see if it powers down.

If it does you have two choices, one add more lights until you get enough of a draw or there is something you can add that will causes this effect. I will see if I can find the orig thread.



Lee

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The resistive load does not even have to be 100 watts.

I use a single C-9 bulb in the line before the LED's and mind react to the board with no problem.

Chuck

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Thanks for the replies guys.

I have three other channels on that same tree with the same number of strings that do not stay on and several other small trees (4 color) with only 4 strings of 50 ct LEDs on each channel, but only the one channel seems to have the problem.

I'll switch channels for now (short term) and try adding the load as I get the chance.

Thanks again!

_____

Clay

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Richard Hamilton

Clay Collier wrote:

Thanks for the replies guys.

I have three other channels on that same tree with the same number of strings that do not stay on and several other small trees (4 color) with only 4 strings of 50 ct LEDs on each channel, but only the one channel seems to have the problem.

I'll switch channels for now (short term) and try adding the load as I get the chance.

Thanks again!

_____

Clay




Clay,

I suggest doing as one other person suggested and put a larger load on the channel for testing. True, that is does not take 100 Watts to ensure lights fade on and off properly. In fact, I only use a home-made 1/2 watt terminator that does the trick. However, for testing sake, put a decent load on the circuit.

Swapping the channel (I assume you are swapping the plug) with another set of lights may give you a false indication that the channel is bad when it may not be. Example.. if you have some lights on a channel that work fine, then plug them into to faulty channel for testing, it isn't a reliable test. If the load is tiny, you may still get the same results which will lead you to believe the channel is bad. I don't know about LOR equipment, but in my past experience, Triacs and SCRs can have different thresholds of cutoff when the load is low. Just because a low load works on one channel, it does not mean that same load will work on all other channels. This can be especially true with LED lights.

When I do testing for something like this, I use an incandescent shop light with a least a 40 Watt bulb in it as a starting point for testing, and I unplug the lights that were on that channel.
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