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RGB Flood Hack


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Has anyone hacked an RGB circuit board like this:



This wasn't quite what I was expecting to see and I've got 7 more of them on the way.

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Thats definitely different than the ones i did. But i assume most of that is for the controller and remote.

It looks like i see the rgb terminals on the left side of the picture maybe thats where you need to go, but you might have to figure out and use some resitors.

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You will need to disconnect/cut the wires going to the board.

BUT!!! before you do that, check the voltage at the square pads (two on each side of the LED chip). This will determine what power supply they need.

There are two square pads on the left labeled "B" for blue, "G" for green and on the right "R" for red. Then the ground above the red.

Most likely you will need a resistor for the red LED terminal.

You will want to solder the power source wires (10 to 12vdc) to those pads. Be careful doing this. Too much heat applied will lift the pads off the board creating problems.

If you have any questions, let me know.

Edited by Santas Helper
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Ok, I just took some voltage measurements.  Just for reference, the input power was reading at 22.7v.


I took the following measurements from the R pad:

14.2v when set to Red (i.e. red leds on)

7v when set to Green

2.5v when set to Blue


From the B pad:

19.5 when set to Blue

0 when set to Green

0 when set to Red


From the G pad:

19.4 when Green

13.1 when Blue

0 when Red


I can understand the measurements from the B pad, but why would I be getting voltages on the G pad when the light is set to Blue (and similarly from the R pad on colors other than red)?


Also, would I want to run these with a 24v power supply (with appropriate resistors) or use a 12v (which looks to be slightly under-powered)?

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Hummmm, that's not readings I was expecting.

24v power supply would be too high for the red IMHO.

And other voltage readings might be runoff from the chips.

Not sure of this situation without having it in front of me.

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What are the readings from the six smaller pads right next to the LEDs doing the same testing procedure?

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Here's my take on this.....


the red and white on the right side of course is drive voltage... (24 I would assume..)


the three leads on the left  are NOT rgb (as I see it) rather they are enable, ground and color.


So, here's my question....


 what is the "Correct"  thing that drives the thing (as in what controller are they made for ???)


Finding out HOW the system is driven will give how to hack it...



WHAT is the number(s) of the two black IC's at the top of the board... I bet they are "quad 2 input nand schmidt triggered gates"



Edited by a31ford
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Greg, nobody said the three wires to the left were RGB.

From my experience they are to the IR sensor for the wireless remote.

In order to hack this, all circuitry will need to be bypassed which includes those 2 black IC chips.

Now I say all this assuming the flood has a separate wireless remote to change the colors and other functions.

Is this a correct assumption jfuller?

Fuller... Fuller... Fuller... :)

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Ok, I'm back.  Sorry for the delay - it was a balmy 18 degrees today so I was outside taking down more of the display.


After realizing that I had my meter at the wrong setting (Doh!!) I've got some new readings:


Input - 10.9v


R pad:

6.83 when set to Red

3.63 when set to Green

1.78 when set to Blue


G pad:

6.35 when set to Blue

9.22 when set to Green

0 when set to Red


B pad:

0 when set to Red

0 when set to Green

9.22 when set to Blue


I've also attached some pictures of the back side (one is when it's set to blue - show some of the circuit paths quite well)


I noticed the R G B lines at the top so I took the following measurements:
When set to Red:
R - 6.49
G - 0
B - 0
When set to Green
R - 3.10
G - 8.79
B - 0
When set to Blue
R - 1.42
G - 6.07
B - 8.8
I still don't understand why I'm getting voltage readings on the R and G lines when it's set to only blue (and same for green).
Thoughts (and thanks!)




Oh, and Santa - you are correct.  It's got and infrared controller (on, off, R, G, B, etc.) and those other three wires are for the IR sensor.





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Okay those readings are a little better to handle and understandable.

When doing those readings, does the meter show "-" minus sign or "+" plus sign when measuring thru the method you used with the same lead on the ground?

The better we test and understand what you have, the better chance we can figure out the hacking of them. I hate to blow up stuff, especially if it's someone else's.

In my experience with hacking the 10w floods, the voltages of the primary colors are similar to what you have.

6 to 7 vdc for red which is why I suggest a resistor.

9 vdc for green and blue each.

Keep in mind, I'm also using an adjustable output power supply with my setting at around 11 volts DC.

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It's showing a plus (with the positive lead on the ground).  I would assume there must be resistors on the board that are dropping the voltage.  Any ideas on which components those would be? 

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This is most likely a combined controller for IR and a constant current driver. LED's love constant current which is a lot better for them than a resistor. In addition a resistor consumes additional power. I have hacked similar devices and replaced the control board with either 3 constant current drivers so I can use them with a LOR dC board or with a combined DMX / constant current driver. Those boards are below $5.

A resistor technically does the same and limits the current based on the LED's voltage drop. So you need to know the current spec (most likely something around 350 mA) and the LED voltage drop which does give you the resistor value. You will need different ones for each of the primary colors.

The voltage reading you get on a Constant Current driver does not help much...

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Here is a link to another hacking thread from a while back. It's some really good reading.




From my latest hacking with these, I am currently running around 11vdc power supply to power 15ea 10w RGB floods to 3 LOR DC controllers and using a 18ohm 1w resistor for the red LEDS,

I'm actually using this setup for my arch and mega tree tower, so 30 floods total and 6 DC controllers.

With the voltage around 11 vdc, the green and blue do not use resistors.

This is my setup and just finished my second season with all 30 of them with no problems.

There is more than one way to skin a cat. :)


Good luck.



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