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Half of my channels went out tonight


Terry Gasper
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I have the 16 channel controller. Can I use a 15 amp car type fuse or do I need something more.



Also, if it does not turn out to be a fuse issue, what would be my next steps to get the full show back and running?

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I think everyone who does a display big enough to animate needs a (cheap, at least) multitester. With that, you'd know it was a fuse with no question... They're availble for well under $20 and are a great diagnostic tool...

Anyway, try the fuse... needs to be rated at 120V (at least) and 15A. Not sure if car fuses are rated for 120V (never had a car that took the glass ones).

If it is the fuse, remember that it blew for a reason, and be sure to correct that problem (most likely an overload, unless something shorted out...)

-Tim

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fire_paramedic

Ditto to what Brad said,

Lowes sells them to and Radio shack used to. But you want the ceramic fast acting, not a automotive fuse at all.


Also check you amp draw and make sure that side of the board is not over loaded if it was the fuse that went bad. Cause it will do it again and worse yet could burn up something. the fuse should stop that but you never can tell with electricty.

edited to add last comment.(forgot)

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It does not seem to be a fuse issue, as I tested the fuse and it was good. I put a new one in just to be sure with the same results.

When I first checked the fuse I turned too far and it did not come out properly, so iI had to push through the back and reseat the connector, again I do not think this is the issue but any input would be welcomed.

I have independently checked all lines that were plugged into 1-8 and there does not seem to be any issues with these lights off of the controller. I have a maximum of 6 100 light mini strings plugged in to one channel, with several channels only having 2-3 mini strings so I am sure that I am not overloading.

Any further suggestions or advise would be welcomed.

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Does this board have two power input cords, or just one?

-Tim

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Can you verify that you have power:

  • At the outlet where the 2nd (affected) power cord is attached?
  • On the left side of the fuseholder?
  • On the right side of the fuseholder?

The card electronics are powered from the right hand side of the board, and it's unlikely that 8 triacs died at once (they tend to stick on anyway) so it really seems like a power problem...

-Tim

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fire_paramedic

When you say you had to reseat the connector you mean one end of the fuse holder?

If so and it came loose this would be a problem. It should be firmly soldered to the board and would not be connecting thus no power.

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I plugged something else into the outlet that 1-8 were plugged into and it worked, so I do have power at that outlet.

I also plugged that side into a different outlet with the same results.

I have not checked to see if there was power to the board, as I am not sure exactly where to test that. If you could give some tips it would be appreciated.

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The fuseholder I was referring to is the one on the panel next to the power switch, not the fuseholder on the PC board. The fuseholders on the PC board are empty.

This holder did not appear to be soldered, but maybe when I pushed it back in the sleeve it did not seat properly.

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fire_paramedic

If you are comfortable with working around electricity and have a multimeter. check for power when the wires coming from the fuse holders enter the board. This will have to be done with it plugged in. be very careful probing around in there. Their will be 110v on open circuits inside. you should get 110v power coming to the board on from the fuses.

Like tim says and i agree sounds like a power problem.

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Here is what I found. I must have damaged the fuse holder somehow, as I had power going into the fuse and the fuse is good, but there was no power coming out to the unit.

I put a jump wire on by-passing the fuse and there was power to all channels.

I do not want to run without a fuse, has anyone used an in-line 15amp 125 volt fuse and would there be any ramifications to doing this at least as a temorary fix.

Are there fuse holders such as the one on the unit available either through LOR or elsewhere so i can run as originally set up?

Thanks for all of your help.

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Great!

Any 15A, fast-acting fuse/fuseholder arrangement should be fine as long as it's rated for 120V or higher. You can probably get the OEM part from LOR, but swapping in something temporarilly should be fine.

-Tim

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The only problem I noticed so far was when I used my multi tester channels 9-16 were at 120 and the fuse jumper I put on channels 1-8 was closer to 110.

Hopefully this does not pose a problem, will find out soon as the show begins in 15 min.:)

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Terry Gasper wrote:

The only problem I noticed so far was when I used my multi tester channels 9-16 were at 120 and the fuse jumper I put on channels 1-8 was closer to 110.

Both are within spec for "standard" voltage... It's a little odd to see that kind of variation in a single house, though... Is one of the circuts a much longer run from the panel and/or under load?

-Tim
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Terry Gasper wrote:

It is about 6-8 ft run, while the other is 2-3 ft.


Hmm, neither should cause significant voltage drop... I wouldn't worry about it I guess...

-Tim
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Of course on the 6-8 ft run, the LOR power cord is plugged into an extension, while the shorter run is directly into the outlet.

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