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CMB-24D and Power Supply Mounting


smithzone
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Looking for best practice to mount all of these in an outdoor enclosure

 

I am thinking of screwing these onto a sheet of lexan (with plastic riser on board) and then screwing the lexan onto some of the mounting points.  None of the factory points in my box seem to line up and you have to mount the power supply from the backside or come up with some brackets.

 

What have others done?

 

Think I need to worry about heat?

 

I also ordered some multi-strand pigtail connectors from Ray - now I am thinking they are not going to be long enough to reach outside of the case.  Is that weird to make the connections inside the box?  Might be more water tight....

 

 

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I made a universal plate that puts the power supply across the top and the PCB across the bottom. The plate is drilled to accept any of the cards that I currently own, both LOR dc cards, e682, DMX bridge and 27 channel dmx card. Works well and I can update the master plate as new cards arrive on the market.

 

Cheers

Daryl B.

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CJ

Not to highjack this posting, but on your 4th photo of your rgb flood, did you build that from scratch or are they the resistors that came with the flood??

Resistors came with the flood. I cut off the remote control part of the board. Someone here posted how to hacked these floods. Takes 10 min.

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I made a universal plate that puts the power supply across the top and the PCB across the bottom. The plate is drilled to accept any of the cards that I currently own, both LOR dc cards, e682, DMX bridge and 27 channel dmx card. Works well and I can update the master plate as new cards arrive on the market.

 

Cheers

Daryl B.

Post a pic. I like to see other peoples work. Your way may work better than mine.

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CJ

How long ago did you convert your floods??

The new ones seem to the driver and remote control in one unit.

I converted my flood Nov. 2013. Look at this post. This is where I got all my info from before I coverted mine. http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/26405-10w-rgb-flood-light-reverse-engineering/?hl=%2Bhow+%2Bhack+%2Bflood+%2Blight#entry248885

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LOL, yes, I'm well aware of that post...........

 

Maybe I should have asked you, when did you purchase your rgb floods??  All the new ones that I either have or have seen, have the SMD resistors on the PCB

Did you purchase your floods on Amazon or Ebay?

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LOL, yes, I'm well aware of that post...........

 

Maybe I should have asked you, when did you purchase your rgb floods??  All the new ones that I either have or have seen, have the SMD resistors on the PCB

Did you purchase your floods on Amazon or Ebay?

I bought it from Amazon. Didn't have SMD resistors in mine. Sorry I don't have any before pics to show. I'm going to try to modify a 30watt flood as soon as I get one in and use a CMB16D-QC controller.

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I've not yet dealt with the possible heat issues that the OP asked about in the first post. In the dead of winter, depending on the local climate, it might not matter but in warmer climates, heat certainly would matter. I've been looking for a directional vane type vent such as something small used with boats, but so far I've not found something small enough to fit into an enclosure that we would be using. Some of these power supplies have their own fans but circulating hot air in a closed environment is just as hot as no circulation for the most part. There could be some tiny amount of heat-exchanging going on with the enclosure but most are plastic and it wouldn't be much in heat transfer. I've found lots of small flat vaned vents but those won't work when it comes to rain, ice or snow. The vanes need to be directional.

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Yep - I have a lot of experience buidling computers and cooling them

 

My 360W PS has a little fan, but I agree with you that it's just going to circulate hot air around the enclosure.   I do live in FL so not going to get much help from ambient air cooling.

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