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LOR Controller Power changes for 2014


wbaker4

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I am planning on removing the second power feed to all of my LOR controllers for two reasons.

 

The first is because I never draw more than 15 amps per  controller, and the second, I had some random power problems that were causing some of my lights to flicker during some slow dimming cycles.

 

As part of this modification, I will be adding two indicators in the box to show me that Power to Neutral and Power to ground are connected.  I had one extension cord that caused me some issues that may have been caused by a bad connection to neutral or ground.

 

Has anyone else done this?

 

Happy New Year!

 

Walt

 

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I've only got three or four controllers left with dual power cords today.  As we've been switching over to LEDs, I've been removing them.  Just make sure, if you're using incandescents, that you know the total power draw.

 

Dual power cords are not likely the cause of flickering.  I'm presuming it happens only with LEDs, specifically multiple strings of LEDs on the same circuit.  If yes, then it sounds like you would benefit from snubbers on those channels.

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The flickering happened on 8 small trees that had incandescent bulbs.  The lights would flicker on slow fades.  I replaced the controller with another one and it still had the flickering problem.  I then added snubbers with 47K Ohm resistors and that did not solve the problem.  I then added a C9 bulb to each tree.  Still flickering.  It wasn't until I replaced the extension cord that the problem went away!

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We finally got all our controllers converted to single inlet, and have roughly 50 GFCI in the park feeding 50 controllers. And roughly 20 more on the building. If we didn't have so many controllers, I might try doubling the number of GFCI, and go back to dual inlet.

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I seem to remember reading what side will control the whole board but I dont remember. Is it as simple as removing one input cord, (if so which one?) Or does it need a jumper?

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I seem to remember reading what side will control the whole board but I dont remember. Is it as simple as removing one input cord, (if so which one?) Or does it need a jumper?

It takes 2 jumpers.
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YES, one can power an entire 16PC, with only the one cord (the manual says how),

 

As far as the power indicators they work the same as those plug in circuit testers with three neon bulbs in them.

 

I use one of these testers on EVERY cord in the show, AND even if the cord is only 2 wire, it will show a go / no go condition.

 

For what it's worth, I am working on two projects at the moment

 

A) the audio line driver (waiting for parts)

 

B) an LED mod to attach to power cords (for controller power)  that will indicate power AND if the cord is correct polarity.

 

Greg

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I have 17 controllers and I have never ran the dual power cords and I have never had any problems. But it all depends upon your lighting load on each half of the controller whether you need 1 or 2 circuits feeding it. 

Wayne

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