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Enclosure for CMB24 RGB Controller


Coop

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  • 4 weeks later...

I installed mine in a 12x12x6 junction box that I purchased from my local home improvement store.  The cover has an o-ring to keep it watertight, but I had to drill several holes to install the wiring and mount the CBM24 card and the power supply.  I could have gone more professional and used watertight cable penetrations, but opted for high-tech silicon caulk instead.  Too much work left to do to get buried in the details.  All in all $35 well spend.  Eight 10W RGB floods and controller......check.post-10948-0-97263800-1382491909_thumb.j 

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  • 1 month later...

I installed mine in a 12x12x6 junction box that I purchased from my local home improvement store.  The cover has an o-ring to keep it watertight, but I had to drill several holes to install the wiring and mount the CBM24 card and the power supply.  I could have gone more professional and used watertight cable penetrations, but opted for high-tech silicon caulk instead.  Too much work left to do to get buried in the details.  All in all $35 well spend.  Eight 10W RGB floods and controller......check.attachicon.gifphoto.JPG

 

So how many channels does this take up on your LOR then?  Also, can you mount all your equipment indoors and run extension cords outside?  Thanks.

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The CMB24 controller board has 8 RGB channels on it. You have to define the controller number in the SE and then each RGB element is assigned 3 channels in the LOR SE. You can install inside, but you have to make sure the cable connecting each element to the card is long enough. Mine is installed outside and is working fine. I did install extensions on my 8 RGB floods so I could mount in the eves of my house. The cords that came with the lights were not long enough.

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The CMB24 controller board has 8 RGB channels on it. You have to define the controller number in the SE and then each RGB element is assigned 3 channels in the LOR SE. You can install inside, but you have to make sure the cable connecting each element to the card is long enough. Mine is installed outside and is working fine. I did install extensions on my 8 RGB floods so I could mount in the eves of my house. The cords that came with the lights were not long enough.

So if I have a 16 channel LOR and add the CMB24, is that a total of 24 channels total in SE (16 ac and 8 RGB)?  Any issues with extending the cords (low light, etc)?

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

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Not quite Jeff.  The CMB24 is a 24 channel controller so you would have a total of 40 channels (16 + 24). The CMB24 is specifically intended for RGB operation, but there is no requirement to do so.  If all 24 channels were configured in SE as RGB channels, you would have 8 RGB channels (remember that each RGB channel is really 3 separate channels).

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I have been following this forum since I am new on RGB and I want to  learn before buying a CMB 24. I would like to make a color ribbon tree.  How many RBG stripes can I connect to it?   I think only 8, according to what you were disccusing,  Is that correct?  Thanks a lot !

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The CMB24 card will control 8 RGB devices (the dumb RGB) that Lightorama recently released. The will not control individual pixels or bulbs in the CCR or CCB products that come with their own controller. I extended my floods 25 feet each and did not have any issues with flood performance.

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  • 5 months later...

savage25: I did the same as you. Worked out for me also. I placed the power supply on the left side, and the card on the right. I used small bolts and nut to hold the card. I marked the enclosure for the 4 holes matching the card and small bolts and nuts to hold it in place. I drilled and put the bolts through the back and put a nut on the bolts to hold them in place and then made non conductive spacers and put them on the bolts and then placed the card in and finished by adding the last nut on top of the card. I will silicone the bolt heads on the back to make sure no water gets in. 

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An alternative to drilling through the boxes and taking a chance of water infusion is this:

 

Cut a piece of Plexi-glass (you can get at Home Depot) or any other type of thin rigid material, to the size of the inside of the enclosure. You can also use these: http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=55&zenid=a3ffb5b8e189a2253e3798ba34050dfe in one of these enclosures:

http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16

 

 

Buy some of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN5SLI/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQTWYUY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Mark and drill holes for power supply and CMB24 and mount using the spacers and screws. then just mount the backing board into the enclosure.

 

It all works well for mine. Just another way of doing the same thing.

Edited by Ron Boyd
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An alternative to drilling through the boxes and taking a chance of water infusion is this:

 

Cut a piece of Plexi-glass (you can get at Home Depot) or any other type of thin rigid material, to the size of the inside of the enclosure. You can also use these: http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=55&zenid=a3ffb5b8e189a2253e3798ba34050dfe in one of these enclosures:

http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16

 

 

Buy some of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN5SLI/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQTWYUY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Mark and drill holes for power supply and CMB24 and mount using the spacers and screws. then just mount the backing board into the enclosure.

 

It all works well for mine. Just another way of doing the same thing.

Yep! Mr. Ron. That's the way I had it at first and then redone it, because I had the screws holding the Plexiglas under the card. But I didn't think it all the way through. Or I would have used the small bolts through the Plexiglas that I had fastened to the enclosure. Oh well, my old brain has started to leak as I have gotten older. :lol:

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Yep! Mr. Ron. That's the way I had it at first and then redone it, because I had the screws holding the Plexiglas under the card. But I didn't think it all the way through. Or I would have used the small bolts through the Plexiglas that I had fastened to the enclosure. Oh well, my old brain has started to leak as I have gotten older. :lol:

Me too, and I think, way too much.

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Either of you have a picture of your enclosures set up this way?  I am trying to picture how to do this, but I guess mine is leaking too!  :unsure:

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Either of you have a picture of your enclosures set up this way?  I am trying to picture how to do this, but I guess mine is leaking too!  :unsure:

jonnyci:

I don't have a picture, but this might help. I used the power supply from LOR. It is smaller than most I have seen and it doesn't have a fan and is suppose to be weather tight, but don't count on it. Away, looking at the open encloseure, I placed the power supply on the left side of the enclosure with the power cord at the bottom, and the card to the right of the power supply with the power connections toward the top of the enclosure. Don't know about any other power supply. 

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Either of you have a picture of your enclosures set up this way?  I am trying to picture how to do this, but I guess mine is leaking too!  :unsure:

I'll get a picture tonight after I get home and post it up. My power supply is like the Meanwell and the China ones.

 

Indi, let me know how that PS works out. I may need to step up next ones I buy.

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This is how I did it. It's not a great picture. I used some zip tie attached to the neg (-) block and the pig tails to help with pull out. This is a LOR power supply, CMB24 and LOR 16 channel enclosure. Tight fit, but seems to work.

post-11274-0-72316000-1401326284_thumb.j

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Thanks so much guys.   So Ron the plexiglass is basically the same length and witdth of the enclosure and you then mount everything to the plexiglass, and then everything simply rests snug inside the enclosure?

 

Thanks for the pics, helps my slow leaking brain.

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