Guest guest Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Don wrote:The CTB16D dimensions with heat sink attached are 6-5/8" wide x 8-5/8" long x 2-1/8" tall.http://www.wonderlandchristmas.com/lorfaq/lorfaq.php#ctb16d-sizeDon,The LOR-wiki FAQ lists CTB16D dimensions as follows:-Dimensions of CTB16DThe CTB16D dimensions with heat sink attached are 6-5/8" wide x 9-1/4" long x 2-1/8" tall. Return to topHave the dimensions changed for the new boards?If so, which of the above is correct for the new boards?Thanks.Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Go with the Wiki. Size didn't change. I forget why, but there was some confusion with regards to the correct site.The wiki is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Many thanks Don.Needing to research my enclosures for the 2 (or more) "16s" I'll be oredering come the sale (Dan, please take note!!)Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I am thinking about building a box out of wood that would fit 5 lor 16's with heatsinks. This will be mounted on the wall underneath our porch so no real problems with dampness. My question is that if I do this, I will probably need to have some air circulation through the box. Do you think that if I put a couple of 3 1/2 inch PC fans on one side and a couple more on the other side (left inward blowing, right outward blowing) that this would be sufficient?Thanks(waiting for the sale!!)LB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 llbarnes wrote: I am thinking about building a box out of wood that would fit 5 lor 16's with heatsinks. This will be mounted on the wall underneath our porch so no real problems with dampness. My question is that if I do this, I will probably need to have some air circulation through the box. Do you think that if I put a couple of 3 1/2 inch PC fans on one side and a couple more on the other side (left inward blowing, right outward blowing) that this would be sufficient?Thanks(waiting for the sale!!)LBUnless you are going to really push the cards hard, that many fans would be a bit over kill (but over kill is good! )... I would think that one fan near the top of the box and air holes along the bottom would be sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Thanks Dan,As long as you don't think that the power draw won't take away from the LOR's, i'll probably set it up like this. I am viewing this purchase as an investment and want to protect it at all costs.Any update on the sale? I am ready to make a purchase of 5 hobby controllers with the heatsinks. Thanks again!Luke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 I use an Allied Moulded Products ( http://enclosures.alliedmoulded.com ) enclosure that is 100% waterproof to 1 foot underwater. I paid $46.40 each two years ago for 12 boxes. I used part number AM1206L to house my Animated Lighting boards. You can get cheaper boxes if you don’t get the Snap latch Hinged Cover. I also used LAPP USA liquid tight strain relief connectors ( 800-774-3539 )for all the wires going into the box. This makes my boxes 100% waterproof and I can mount them in any direction. Last year, I placed two of the boxes on the grass with no protection over the boxes and I did not have any water in any of my boxes. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guest Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Just my two cents on enclosures:Back in 03' when LOR first came out, I got several old DC drive enclosures that were louvered for ventilation for the braking resistor. The price was great (FREE). I fabricated a drip-proof galvanized cover and put on top of the box to keep water from entering (see attached pic) and never had any problems whatsoever. They did operate in rain/fog/snow without any issues at all.I have since then remounted all the older units and new ones in Hoffman metal enclosures w/door gaskets. My point is, in my experience the last 3 yrs, keeping the boards & connections out of direct water contact is the most important. I don't believe you need an absolutely airtight/watertight enclosure. I now use standard strain reliefs for cords & cables as long as they are mounted on the bottom of the enclosure vs. the compression units I first tried on the new enclosures. Much cheaper!Granted, I live in a dryer state as far as humidity goes, but no problems so far. The only problem I have ever had was with a phone cord splice connector. Keep those dry if you have to use them!Happy lighting Everyone! Only about 27 weeks until LIGHTS-ON!!!! Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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