DIY Controller

[ksmith247]

I am looking at buying a DIY controller, but I am not for sure what the difference is between the low power and the high power heatsink. I am just starting out, and am still in the planning stages for my first show next year. I have a goal to be in the paper in three years. lol. Of course my wife thinks its neat but I'm crazy. I am sure most on here know about that.

[Orville]

If I recall the low heat sinks are if you only use one power cord to control all 16 channels, if using two power cords, 1 for channels 1-8 and 1 for channels 9-16, the high power heat sink is required. However, I'd still go with the high power heat sinks in either case, reasoning is if you ever opt to use two power cords you won't have to replace the low power heat sinks with the high power ones. And also the high power can handle more heat from the circuitry to keep things cooler inside the controller.

Edited December 18, 2012 by Orville

[ksmith247]

Thanks for the help. I figure I will go with the high power option.

[WilliamS]

The high and low power are the heat sinks. What kind of lights and props will you be using? All led will change your needs on this setup greatly.

[Max-Paul]

Be aware that Orville has not taken his meds. With that said, it does not matter if you use one or two power cords to supply power to the board. What matters is the loads that you install on the output terminals. I am using LEDs and as long as the current draw on all of the outputs is below 2 amps each. then you can use the low power heat sinks that come with the boards in standard options. Now if you have any channel that might draw more than two amps. It would be advisable to go with the high power

[George Simmons]

Another advantage of the low power heat sinks (if you're using LED's, or as Max describes) is that you'll have a bit more space to work with inside an enclosure, or you might be able to use a smaller enclosure, and those are always a good thing.

Edited December 18, 2012 by George Simmons

[beeiilll]

Low power is for 15 amp load (7.5 amp per side) while the high power will handle 40 amp load (20 amp per side).

The big thing with this hobby for the controllers is calculating the load that each channel, bank, controller will have on it so as to determine what you need.

I have always bought the high power heat sink version so that I don't need to worry about things as much.

You also need to consider the wiring for the controller as well. If you are going to make a true high power one, then you will want to use 12 awg cords for power and at least 16 awg pigtails for the outputs to be safe. Only you will really know what you are carrying on the controller so it is imperative to make sure you "do the math" and figure the loads to be sure and safe. Whether you are running incandescent lights, LEDs, blowmolds, or spotlights, you will need to know what is on each channel of the controller.

A nice thing to have is a "Kill O Watt" meter:

http://www.amazon.com/P3-International-P4400-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1355822929&sr=1-1&keywords=kill-a-watt+monitor

It is one of the best investments you can get to help with things.

Also be aware of the options on the type of DIY controllers too. IF you are using the PC version, they are staright forward but the CTB16K kits offer a standard or deluxe version. The difference is that the deluxe version of those has a speed control on it and can do "stand alone" sequences without the need for a hookup to a computer or director and also has switches to set it to the controller number that it will be versus the PC version and the standard version controllers which are set up through the hardware utility as to what number controller they will be.

I personally use all CTB16K Delux controllers with high power heat sinks as I like to be able to replace one if need be quickly but also that I can take one and download a sequence into it and take it out and use it somewhere else all by itself fo run a sort of mini show in other places if I want too.

We each have out own likes and dislikes as to what we use. There are even quite a few other DIY controllers on the market that can work with LOR if you get the real true DIY bug or really want to save a lot. But the savings do come at a price of more work and learning on your part.

Enjoy the learning curve with this and have fun too. This is a great hobby that will provide you with a lot of satisfaction as well as headaches!

[GaryM]

If I recall the low heat sinks are if you only use one power cord to control all 16 channels, if using two power cords, 1 for channels 1-8 and 1 for channels 9-16, the high power heat sink is required. However, I'd still go with the high power heat sinks in either case, reasoning is if you ever opt to use two power cords you won't have to replace the low power heat sinks with the high power ones. And also the high power can handle more heat from the circuitry to keep things cooler inside the controller.

You need to go back and read the manual, or, just read Max's explanation.

Reality is, you have 3 choices: no heat sink, for very minimal loads (max 1A/channel), and then either the low power or high power.

Cords are a separate issue; one HS or another does not dictate whether you use 1 or 2 power cords.

Edited December 18, 2012 by GaryM

[zswells]

so do the residential fully assembled light controllers come with high or low power heat sinks

[GaryM]

http://store.lightorama.com/ctretogonoas.html

high power, as shown in the picture.

[Orville]

I agree with what all Beeiilll stated.

And I DID say "IF I RECALL", was trying to do this from what I could remember, I bought all my CTB16PC controllers fully assembled and with tne High Power Heat Sinks so, like Beeiilll, didn't have to worry as much about it,

Edited December 18, 2012 by Orville

[Surfing4Dough]

I agree with what all Beeiilll stated.

And I DID say "IF I RECALL", was trying to do this from what I could remember, I bought all my CTB16PC controllers fully assembled and with tne High Power Heat Sinks so, like Beeiilll, didn't have to worry as much about it,

So why are you answering about something you don't know or have experience with? Just like to hear yourself talk? Don't be offended when somebody calls out your incorrect info if you are going to stick your neck out there like that.

[George Simmons]

Cords are a separate issue; one HS or another does not dictate whether you use 1 or 2 power cords.

My first controllers all had two cords and HD heatsinks. With the on-going conversion to LED, most of those controllers have been cut back to one power supply cord. Much more convenient only having one.

Any I buy from now on will only have the low power HS, single power supply cord and I'll be using zip cord for most of the dongles. The more you do yourself, the lower you can bring the total cost. LOR has to do things for the masses and with an eye on liability issues. As long as you don't compromise safety you can do it for your specific individual needs.

Edited December 19, 2012 by George Simmons

[ksmith247]

I decided to go the safe route and get the high power heat sinks. I am just starting out, and from what I have read on the forum, I am going to start with LED for most of my project because of the lower power usage. I am planning on getting the Kill-a-Watt meter, since everyone on here seems to agree that is a must have item and can't really argue with the more experienced. Thanks for all the help.

[GaryM]

You almost don't need a kill-a-watt if you are all LED.

And if all LED, the high power heat sinks will not even break a sweat..neither will your triacs.

[Steven]

Low power heat sinks don't have the holes necessary for mounting to the standard plastic cases. I realize you are probably not mounting them in a standard way.

[Max-Paul]

Low power heat sinks don't have the holes necessary for mounting to the standard plastic cases. I realize you are probably not mounting them in a standard way.

Low power heat sinks don't have the holes necessary for mounting to the standard plastic cases. I realize you are probably not mounting them in a standard way.

Steven makes a good point. And if your not handy with building things. Then I suggest you bite the bullet and buy the High Power heat sink. Now if your the type that can use a ruler punch and drill. Then I will tell you what I did. I went to home depot and bought a length of 2" X 2" angle aluminum. I cut off two pieces about 5.5" long (note the about, measure and cut at what works for you). I then took the plates that came with the kit, with the holes for aligning the Triacs to the board. I used this as a template to locate the holes I was going to drill. The holes are high on the edge just about .25" offset due to the fact that the Triacs are not centered on the edge of the board either. I then drilled two holes per angle, to align with the mounting bosses on the back of the box. I now have a mid power heat sink and a means to mount the board to the box. I bet that not one of my channels draw more than 1 amp. And the closes I would come is 80 C9 retro LEDs. Each draw .96 watts. Worse case is 80 watts or about .75 amps. Hence my whole display is on a single outlet.

[ksmith247]

My first controllers all had two cords and HD heatsinks. With the on-going conversion to LED, most of those controllers have been cut back to one power supply cord. Much more convenient only having one.

Any I buy from now on will only have the low power HS, single power supply cord and I'll be using zip cord for most of the dongles. The more you do yourself, the lower you can bring the total cost. LOR has to do things for the masses and with an eye on liability issues. As long as you don't compromise safety you can do it for your specific individual needs.

So you can use the zip cord for the dongles? I had thought about this idea, but did not know if it was advisable.

[George Simmons]

As long as you don't exceed the load the zip cord is rated for, sure, you can use them for dongles. Costs a lot less than the heavy duty ones from LOR. I've also used the female end of ordnary extension cords for dongles in places where I knew I'd be running multiple cords from the dongle. Saves a lot of $ not having to use splitters. (You can also use zip cord with a single vampire receptacle and add an in-line vampire receptacle later if you want more than one cord connected to the dongle.

As always when using zip cord, make SURE that you ALWAYS connect the ribbed wire to the neutrals.