NINtender Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 I bought the LOR1602W on the summer sale, got it running and impressed the wife so much with strands of flashing light all over the garage, she's giving me approval to buy another!Now, I've soldered before and understand enough about electricity to stay alive when around it. After reading all of the comments in this forum about the DIY and it's ease, and the support Lightorama has provide to those who needed help, I'm ready to buy a couple of kits.I saw in one post about where to get similar metal cases (without those nifty switch and fuse plates though) so I'm ok with that. Here's what I think I need besides that to be complete:(1) CTB16KD - (CTB16KDWHS) kit(2) 6ft power cord (NEMA-5-15P-6FT)(1) Short Power Cord Receptacles with ground (NEMA-5-15R-18-16)Edit: Also, I noticed the unit I bought has a separate plate with fuse holders, and a switch for the power. Do I need to do something similar or would simply plugging both plugs in suffice as the "switch".Thanks in advance for any assistance!
LightORamaDan Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 With what you have listed you can build a unit. As you mentioned you Will need an enclosure, in addition you will need cable clamps (from Home Depot/Lowes/...) to hold the wires.You will need to drill holes in the enclosure to mount the controller inside.The original LOR1602Ws did not have the switch plate in them. They just plugged in and were always powered on. Most people keep their units powered on all season. It is nice to have the switch but it is only a nicety.Dan
rockyct Posted August 15, 2007 Posted August 15, 2007 Yeah, I just leave mine "on" for the whole season. They take very little electricity to keep the power on the boards when no show is going so you're not going to save more than a few cents on your power bill by turning the boards off after the show and back on in the evening. Not to mention how annoying that would be, although, I guess you could do that with an automatic timer.
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